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Old 11-28-2011, 10:20 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default clunk noise?

Hi, My SIL has a 2001 Ultra 130 D.I. ski, she sucked a rope into her intake sometime ago and removed it, and since then she gets a "clunk,clunk,clunk" noise at idle, as soon as she gets off idle the clunk goes away and the ski rides great. It's laid up in my garage for the winter and I would like to take a look at it, does anyone have an idea where to start? I'm new to jetski's but have done loads of work on cars. Thnaks all.
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
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where is the noise coming from engine or jet pump i would say that the rope may have bent the drive shaft or moved the impellor some how or maybe a bearing noise check impellor to see if its catching any where
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:43 AM   #3 (permalink)
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it's not an engine noise, it is somewhere along the drive line.
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
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yeah i would say some thing is bent or moved ... remove the spark plugs so there is no compresion on engine.... remove intake grate.... and maybe the jet nozzle at the rear so you can see it more clearly. have some one to turn the shaft by hand while you look with a torch down the rear of the jet pump .you may even feel the clunk or rubbing through the shaft while turning over by hand. you never no it might be some thing loose. also have a quick check at the rubber cuppling between crank shaft and prop shaft and check clearence between impellor/ wear ring

the next step to take if you cant find any thing stated above would be to remove the pump and check the bearings

ps did some one remove the pump to remove the rope or did the rope get cut out.... just thought i ask becouse the pump might not been put together proply
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Old 11-29-2011, 09:22 AM   #5 (permalink)
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This is a common "accident". Watch those tube-tow ropes. And be sure any bow painter (rope to tie-up at the dock, attached to the bow eye) is short enough that it can never reach the intake grate.
Anyway, the result is almost always a bent driveshaft. At idle, the rpm is slow enough to hear each rotation. At speed, the frequency of the "clunk" is higher, and it just sounds like a humming sound that gets swallowed up with other engine noises.
But there is still a nasty vibration going on that will tear up your driveshaft bearing, and/or the pump bearing and splines.
Its not all that hard to take the pump off. But its a bit of a bother to remove, or just loosen & lift the engine to pull the driveshaft out the front. But I think you have to get that driveshaft out for inspection & replacement.
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Old 11-29-2011, 03:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggauvin View Post
This is a common "accident". Watch those tube-tow ropes. And be sure any bow painter (rope to tie-up at the dock, attached to the bow eye) is short enough that it can never reach the intake grate.
Anyway, the result is almost always a bent driveshaft. At idle, the rpm is slow enough to hear each rotation. At speed, the frequency of the "clunk" is higher, and it just sounds like a humming sound that gets swallowed up with other engine noises.
But there is still a nasty vibration going on that will tear up your driveshaft bearing, and/or the pump bearing and splines.
Its not all that hard to take the pump off. But its a bit of a bother to remove, or just loosen & lift the engine to pull the driveshaft out the front. But I think you have to get that driveshaft out for inspection & replacement.
When you say loosen and lift the engine, do you mean just slip it forwards a few inches in the engine compartment? Thanks
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Old 11-29-2011, 04:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I'm NOT an expert on Ultra 300's. You could search for "driveshaft removal on a 300" in some of the forums.
But most skis require that the drive shaft be removed by pulling it forward, through the support bearing in the hull. The back end of the shaft just pulls out of the impeller via a splined connection. It has to go forward a considerable distance. If the engine is not fully removed, it usually has to be loosened enough to be lifted to allow the driveshaft to extend forward underneath it, until it clears the hull bearing.
Good luck, and keep us posted.
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Old 11-30-2011, 05:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
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It sounds like a good strategy, a bit more than i wanted to get involved, we'll see.

Thanks
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Old 01-21-2012, 10:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Well i've decided to go ahead and take on the project myself. I'll try and zero in on the exact problem by doing what was mentioned in one of the above posts, remove plugs and turn by hand and see if i can notice anything.
Figuring the worst and the driveshaft needs replacement and possibly bearings what is the proper way to do it? Remove the engine and pull forwards? Someone above mentioned remove the pump. Anyway to check the bearings when i get the ds out?

I did some forum searching and did not find anything about driveshaft removal.
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Old 01-22-2012, 02:18 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bones774 View Post
Well i've decided to go ahead and take on the project myself. I'll try and zero in on the exact problem by doing what was mentioned in one of the above posts, remove plugs and turn by hand and see if i can notice anything.
Figuring the worst and the driveshaft needs replacement and possibly bearings what is the proper way to do it? Remove the engine and pull forwards? Someone above mentioned remove the pump. Anyway to check the bearings when i get the ds out?

I did some forum searching and did not find anything about driveshaft removal.
i like to take on new projects.... i normally start taking things apart and finding how they work or learn my self incase of a brakedown ...i would love to help you work on it but im in australia........ might be best to get a workshop manual . either call in to a local dealer.... you never know he might just lend you one. if he does photo copy it and hand it back ASAP it wont be nice handing him a oiled up manual as it will get dirty .

just try like i said above .....turn engine over by hand and have some one look through the pump with light to see if any thing is catching .. could be just a knicked impellor or debri still in there you will soon see if the shaft is warped ...

im not to sure what way the prop comes out in your model but worst comes to worst you will have to move the engine to allow the prop to come forward.......but normally the prop does come out through the pump so NO need to move engine

....BEARINGS..... i would qoute the the numbers on them either way get new ones . the reason being you all ready have it apart ....do you really want to do it again in 9 months or 3 months time ....you never know!!!!

take pictures or video while working on it as a reference....... also i might be able to help if i see whats going on

ps when taking nuts and bolt off ...put them in a plastic containers as MARKED AS.... ive been a diesel meckanic for nearly 20 years.... some times when waiting weeks for parts your memerory seems to forget where every thing goes ....or it might just be me ....... im scared to admitt im getting old

dean
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