canadian_fly

Bit of a story to open with.
Got a 750SS and a 750XISS with a rebuilt dual trailer for $550. The SS runs fine after resetting the whole craft per the maintenance schedule for the engine. She was a little sleepy at first but she is ready for the water.

As for her sister... the PO was telling me that her hull sustained some damaged due to it resting on a trailer cross beam while on a trip to the inter-coast and then subsequently put it in the water unnoticed and took on brackish water to the point of engine stall, then became partially submerged before reaching shore. It has been sitting on the trailer for a 2 years without anything being completed.

I had viewed the XISS as a paper weight and spare parts for the other, BUT after removal on the carbs, heads and associated fuel/oil system cleaning and some massaging of the internals, she is alive. it does need proper rebuilds on the head, carbs and a good hone on the cylinder walls, if not replacement, but the reeds and internals are in great shape. very surprised as the flame suppressor and chock plates contained evidence of salt contamination.

1st problem I am curious about is the Hull. For proper hull repair, should I remove the engine to make the scarf repair from the inside or can I preform the scarf on the outside and work in? There seems to have been a crude home repair on the outside with a covering of gelcoat over top on the whole bottom that is peeling. so the bottom needs to be "resurfaced". Where Kawasaki hulls pressure molded upon manufacture? Does this affect how the repair needs to be completed? looking for some good books on the subject, and which systems should I use and cannot use.
TAP Plastics seems to have a system that may work. Has anyone tried there products? Instructional Videos: TAP Plastics

2nd problem. The trim system. I have a broad Clymer Jetski Kawasaki shop manual for 1992-1994 but it doesn't go into discussion on the trim. Just trim cable. It has the wring diagram for it, but there is no section on the removal, inspection, testing, and rebuild of the associated part. anyone have a break down of instructions from a better shop manual? Also The prices on these associated trim parts are through the roof. Any after market modification for this yet?

Thanks in advance for all your help on this matter.

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topbloke

hull damage im not sure of but im pretty sure there doubled hull under neath . my 900 actually wore down to the foam but i had a freind who refirbre glassed and gel coated from the outside . i never removed the engine i lay mine on its side to get repaired . if yours is internal repairs yes remove the engine. also removing engine will give you a head start to to either rebiuld or check over . ps it doesnt matter the size or damage on firbre glass it can be repaired

also convert to premix by removing oil pump and tank and adding oil into the fuel

now for the trim sorry i dont actualluy have a manual on the trim... this and many other models of kawasaki have probloms letting in water into the trim box ...i have tryed every thing to stop water from getting into mine. water actually makes its way up through the cable and into the box with or without seals ive even tryed double seals on the cable lacated at the jet pump still no good . i open my trim box up after 10 hours use and dry out relube then she is good to go

if you do open the trim box its very basic ....you have your motor and meckinism and two other little black boxes... one is trim sensor and the other some sort of rectifier and some elecric plugs these electric plugs normally give you trouble ... an easy way to test the motor is to put a direct 12 volt feed to the motor to see if it works

i did notice on my 900 that the trim would be intermittent it turned out to be a little white electrical plug with 3 wires that had badly corroded thus sending the trim thinking that it was all the way up or down so it wouldnt corrospond to the switch on the handlebars

goodluck with yours

canadian_fly

Topbloke,

Great points. I am moving to just outside of littlerock this month, and will commence repairs apon arrival. Your right, it would be best to just remove the engine and have done with it. Better access to the trim modules and a stronger hull repair from both sides. As for the oil injection. I have learnt that lesson before. I have a seadoo gtx that had burnt a hole in one piston. Must add, the ethanol and older style grey bombardier fuel lines break down from the inside and clog the tiny filters at the carbs causing a progressively leaner condition so even with a 50:1 mix I wonder if the premix would have saved it. Wasn't sure if the injection was working at that time. Bombardiers plastic gear'd and dry cracked plastic oil injection lines seem to be strong points for oil block off plates. Kawasaki seems to be a much simpler and "fail safe" (if I should dare to risk using those words). But a good maintenance program and replacement of fuel and oil lines would certainly be in order for such a rough past one this jetski.

Will post progress and pics for your review as soon as I get started.