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99 kawasaki 1100 STX

7K views 16 replies 3 participants last post by  t.50682/ 
#1 ·
Can anyone Identify what this is and how to repair or replace it ?
 

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#3 ·
Hi,

I havnt had this issue with a ski , but as an electrical engineer ive seen this plenty of times

the photos a bit iffy but they look like compression glands, if you say the housing has cracked id suggest, labelling and removing the cables, cutting a new plate with the correct size holes drilled in it, and then remount it over the cracked section (cut away anything that looks corroded too) . put some bonding around it just to be sure

then reinstall the glands and the wiring, i suggest putting some new glands on as i imagine the plastic and rubber seal are corroded too.

is the housing thats broken plastic or metal ? any chance of a closer picture ?

Chris
 
#5 ·
If your talk about the wire on the electrical box, that is a very common problem. They are called joints. It's a tedious process to replace them, but needs to be done to properly seal the the electrical box. Do yourself a favor, and get enough to do everything but the plug wires. The plug wires are a royal pain to change (you have to cut the heat wrap off, spray the wire with wd-40, and carefully remove the joint nut and grommet).

59071-3001 JOINT

Disconnect all the wires going to the box, cut the zip ties to free the wires, unbolt, and disconnect the water lines to the temp sensor (it comes out with the box), remove the 4 mounting bolts (one at each side corner) for the box, and remove it from the ski. Remove all the bolts to open the box and admire the mess of wires. Work one joint at a time. Just unplug the wires, and carefully remove them from the box one at a time. The joints are threaded, and will easily come out. Might have to use a large flat blade screwdriver if they are broken flush, which I bet they are. There is a o-ring that goes on the joint to seal it to the box. Be sure you get it back on.
 
#6 ·
rodsatheart thanks for your help. I ordered the joints and O rings . Is there anything else I might need ? this jet ski has sat for about 3 or 4 years. Would you know what I need to do to get it working again. I bought a new battery. Replaced the friction pads, and upholstered the seats. There is a lot of oxidation on the paint. I assume polishing will get rid of that.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Phillip
 
#7 ·
Replace the oil injection lines, and priming the system, kit the carbs, pressure check the engine, or just pull it and replace the crank seals as a safety precaution (probably the orig. seals in there, and I will bet there will be some oil under the stator cover from that seal leaking), blow out all the cooling lines to make sure they are clear. When you run this engine on the hose, pay close attention to the heat of the front cyl. You might tilt the trailer tongue down. I just found this out, that these engines don't flow water to the front cyl. very well when on the hose, so you only get a couple of minutes run time max. Tilting the trailer supposedly helps, but I have yet to try it.
Get some 2000 and 5000 grit paper, and wet sand the hull, then polish and wax for best results. It's alot of work, but worth it.
Make sure the seat is sealing. Put a thin coat of grease or oil on the seal, install the seat, remove and look for the impression on the hull.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Seals and kit are available from the jetskistore.com. Seat seal is not available anywhere. I carefully removed the seal, and inserted some vinyl tubing for a core, and glued it back on. Seals are easy, just need a way to remove the drive coupling, and a flywheel puller (also available from the jet ski store). Might be able to find a local engine builder that will be able to remove the coupler for you. Engine has to come out to do the seals. Carb kits are straight forward, and since you will be removing the carbs to do the oil lines, you are half way there. Bleeding the supply line is easy. Just loosen the bolt on top of the pump until no more air comes out. To bleed the lines, mix up some 32:1 fuel in a jug, make a supply feed line from it to the carbs, and idle the ski until the lines to the carbs are air free. Will have to do this in spurts to keep the engine cool, or back it into the water at the lake for cooling.
 
#13 ·
Sorry to hear that. Really sucks. Thank you for your service.
Running on a hose, they don't flow very well to the front cyl. I was not told of this, and when I ran mine, the front cyl was much hotter than the other two. I couldn't barely touch it.
Did some research and found that if you tilt the trailer tongue down, it will allow some water to flow to that cyl., and allow you a few more minutes of run time. I haven't verified this yet though. I have seen reports of people saying that the front cyl was as much as 100 degrees hotter than the other two.
If your new to PWC's, be sure you start the ski, and then turn the water on just enough to get a steady stream out the tell tail on the side of the bow. Turn the water off, rap the throttle quickly a couple of times, and then shut it off.
Never turn the water on first.
 
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