1. Nowhere else. But not a bad idea to spray all metal parts with anti-corrosive (Fluid Film is best choice)
2. Just about anything with a plastic spray tube. Fluid Film mentioned above is good, or any type of cable lube. You need a 2 screw cable luber and you will have to disassemble the grips to get to the cables.
3. Chips are bad unless they are really small. You can take it to a prop repair shop and have it repaired for cheaper than a new prop.
4. Wait until the spring to replace the plugs. Run the ski first to clear all the fogging oil which tends to foul the plugs. Then after the first run of the season change or clean the plugs. Plugs on this model ski foul easily and need to be changed or cleaned often.
5. Never...........unless you overfill the oil and get the filter contaminated, or you get it wet. If it looks clean, it will last forever.
6. Not hard. Get engine hot (must run on hose 15 minutes). You will need an extractor pump to pump the oil out of the oil tank. You will get 2.5 quarts if you do it right. Put back in exactly what you take out if the oil level was correct before (level should read 1/2 way on the stick when the engine is very hot). Never, never, check the oil level on this ski with the engine cold, or you will get a false reading.......has to be very hot and right after it has been run to get accurate reading. Put a plastic bag around the filter once you get it loose to catch leaking oil.
7. Neoprene shorts keep the seats from chaffing your legs, and supposedly will keep you from getting water forced into areas you don't water forced into if you plan to fall off the ski at 60 mph. I recommend them for riding, and the neoprene vests are the most comfortable types.
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2008 Yamaha FX HO Cruiser
2010 Hurricane Sundeck 2100
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