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08-07-2011, 11:21 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 9
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**Need Advice** 2003 FX140 Cruiser
Just bought a 2003 FX 140 Cruiser. I know a ton about boats, but very little about jet skis. Previous owner has had the jet ski in storage the last three years, when he tried to sell it, he put it into the water, when he tried to accelerate, the ski became sluggish and wanted to stall. Ran ok at 10 MPH, but no more than that.
Previous owner stated that he was told that it was bad gas, he put stabilizer in it, but that was 3 years ago. The air filter has been taken out. The ski runs fine on the trailer and the compression on all four cylinders are right around 180 or so and the plugs are black. I plan on doing the following;
1. Change Spark Plugs
2. Empty out old gas, put in new gas (87 Octane Right?)
3. Empty old oil, put new oil in (any suggestions what type and brand)?
4. Change oil filter
5. Check / replace old fuel filter
6. New plug wires
7. Install new air filter
I am assuming, actually praying that the above steps will correct the problem, but if not what are your suggestions of what to try next. When replying, please remember I am new and I am sure that somewhere in here this has been covered before, but I could not find it.
Last edited by xenus7850; 08-07-2011 at 11:51 PM.
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08-08-2011, 04:34 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Woods on the left past Mayberry
Posts: 1,804
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I'd bet that step #1 cures the problem by itself, but I'd definitely put in new fuel, and run an injector cleaner through the first tank. I recommend using Yamaha Ring Free Plus, but one with Techron will work. 87 octane, is correct, but for that first tank you might want to run premium through, because of the added detergents and less ethanol (if you can find gas without ethanol that would be ideal).
For oil look for one that is FC-W certified. That will have the anti-corrosives you need. If you want to run dino I'd stay with Yamalube. If you want to run synthetic, go with Amsoil 10W-40 marine. Be very careful not to overfill the oil..........easy to do on this dry sump system. Only check the oil level with the ski HOT right after you run it. If you check the level cold or wait too long after the engine has been run, you will get a false low reading. Overfilling the oil is a very common cause for these skis not to run right.......it fouls the spark plugs ruins the air filter, etc.. Definitely change the oil filter......they rust out quickly. I recommend a K&N filter.
There is really no fuel filter, but there is a screen on the bottom of the fuel pump assembly. I wouldn't bother with messing with it until you try the other stuff above first.
I wouldn't replace the plug wires until you try the above.
Air filter is optional. If you want to replace it (be sure the oil level is correct 1st or you may ruin your new filter). I'd recommend an R&D replacement filter. Its cheaper than OEM and can be cleaned if it gets fouled with oil (scroll down): YAMAHA FX HO / FX140
Good Luck! The FX is a nice stable ride, and just about bulletproof once you get it going.
__________________
2008 Yamaha FX HO Cruiser
2010 Hurricane Sundeck 2100
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08-08-2011, 05:48 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 9
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Thanks for the information. I started doing some of it today and came across an issue that I need better clarification on. I checked the engine oil cold and it was right on, I had the cover off of where the spark plugs and air filter go. I started the ski and in the bottom left hand corner (see pic) there was a little black vent hole of some sort and it was periodically spitting out oil. I put the cover back on and let it run for about 7-10 minutes to warm the oil. Checked the oil dipstick again, it was above F. I pumped a little over 3 qrts of oil and put new oil in, filled it to between Low and Full. Started ski back up and let in run for about 10 minutes, no more oil spitting, checked oil dipstick and it was way over F, pumped out about 1 qrt. Reading was once again between low and high, let it run for about 10 minutes and it was over the full mark again. I had it running off of the hose, is this normal, anyway that water is getting in the oil? I just dont understand why or how it keeps getting to being over full when I have pumped some of the oil out, the oil was work / hot, not sure how hot and the level was between F and L. Did I not get the oil hot enough to accurately measure?
Please see pics for info on the oil.
Last edited by xenus7850; 08-08-2011 at 05:53 PM.
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08-08-2011, 07:03 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Woods on the left past Mayberry
Posts: 1,804
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This ski has to be really HOT to get an accurate oil reading. Never check it cold. And don't let it sit too long after you stop the engine before checking the level..............very different from a car and most other skis. The very most accurate reading you can get is after you have ridden the ski on the water for 15-20 minutes, then get off and check the oil. The water keeps the ski perfectly level and the engine oil is distributed properly throughout the system.
I doubt there is any water in the oil (it will look milky if there is). I think what you are doing is seeing the level rise as the engine gets hotter. On the hose you have to run it for at least 10-15 minutes to check the oil level, and even then it may not be as full as you will see on the water. Keep sucking it off until you get it 1/2 way between the marks when it is hot.
You are seeing excess oil come up into the air intake area from the oil tank...........its designed that way. There is a hose that runs from the oil tank. That is probably why there was no air filter in it..............it was ruined by oil by the previous owner who overfilled the oil tank. With the oil at the correct level you should not be able to suction out more than about 2.5 quarts. Once you get it right, only put back in exactly what you take out, and you will not run the risk of overfilling it.
NOTE: When these skis arrive at a dealership they have a tag that says "DEALER DO NOT ADD OIL, CORRECT AMOUNT OF OIL WAS ADDED AT THE FACTORY. CHECKING THE OIL LEVEL COLD MAY NOT SHOW ANY OIL ON THE STICK WHEN THE OIL LEVEL IS CORRECT". You would be amazed at how many dealerships over fill the oil on these skis.
__________________
2008 Yamaha FX HO Cruiser
2010 Hurricane Sundeck 2100
Last edited by Ernest T; 08-08-2011 at 07:13 PM.
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08-08-2011, 08:33 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 9
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Thanks Earnest T, your input is GREATLY appreciated. I never was able to get the ski really hot on the trailer, I had it running 3-4 different time within60-70 minutes, running about 55 of those minutes. I was still able to touch the oil reservoir, top of the engine (were the spark plugs are) and it was cool where the oil was at, stuck my finger into the oil and is was warm, top of the engine was much hotter, but not what I expected. I was able to keep my fingers on it for like 5 seconds before it got a bit to hot.
The good news is that after I pump out abut another 1/2-3/4 quarts of oil, it quit rising on me. I will check it again once I have it in the water and have a load on it. The disturbing thing is this, I pumped a total of 3 quarts out the first time and then added 2.25 quarts. Kept running high on me, I then pumped out 1 quart, then pumped out another .75 quarts, totaling 1.75 quarts of the 2.25 I put in. Hard to believe that between the design and the previous owner that it would be off so much.
In any event, it seems to have level off about 1/2" under the F mark and it no longer spits oil out of the breather hole, so I am sure that did not help the cause of it running smoothly. I plan on getting it out in the next day or 2 to check to see if the work I did corrected the issue in which it would only hit 10-15 MPH and then stall or act like it wanted to stall from what the previous owner told me. I have not witnessed the ski in the water at all yet, so hope all goes well, I will update after I test trial it and hopefully have no other issues or questions.
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08-09-2011, 06:23 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Woods on the left past Mayberry
Posts: 1,804
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Now that you got the oil right, you might want to change the plugs before you ride it. Overfilled oil will foul them quickly, and the small plugs on this model foul real easy.
Good luck on your test ride.
__________________
2008 Yamaha FX HO Cruiser
2010 Hurricane Sundeck 2100
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08-10-2011, 06:25 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 9
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Thanks so much for your help. Test drive not so good today, once in the water it stalled a few times, but once it got warm, seemed to be fine. Here is the issue, I was only able to get the RPMs up to around 6k on wide open throttle. Ski only went about 10 MPH. Ran it around for about 10 mintues to see if I could get it to improve, but nothing. I have changed the oil, oil is at the correct level, made absolutely sure to chack it hot and the level is fine, I changed the plugs, new oil filter, new gas with SeaFoam injector cleaner.
Nor sure what to check next, my though is the jet pump wear ring, I believe that is what it is called. My question is based on what I described, what could it be, what should I check and how should I test these parts to know what the problem is.
Thanks in advance.
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08-10-2011, 08:11 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Woods on the left past Mayberry
Posts: 1,804
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You want to see 10000+ rpms on that ski. I'm not saying that you couldn't have a problem with the pump also, but I'd get the engine running right first.
Next step would be to run it then pull the plugs and look for a wet one or one that looks different. Pull the wet or different looking spark plug and put it in the ignition coil and be sure you have spark when you crank it (you may have to ground the plug to the engine). If you don't find a funky plug check them all. If you find a plug that is not sparking, swap one of the other ignition coils to that wire and try it to see if the ignition coil is bad.
If the plugs and coils all check good, you may have a bad cylinder. Then do a compression check. You should be getting 180 psi+ with no more than a 10% difference between cylinders. Be sure to check the compression after you have warmed up the engine, and hold the throttle wide open during the compression check. (164 psi is the absolute minimum).
The impeller to wear ring clearance should be no more than 0.45 mm checked with a filler gauge. There should be no dings, nicks or bends in the impeller.
__________________
2008 Yamaha FX HO Cruiser
2010 Hurricane Sundeck 2100
Last edited by Ernest T; 08-10-2011 at 08:18 PM.
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08-10-2011, 10:13 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 9
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Thanks Ernest, your the best, might have to send you a gift certificate for a lunch or something by the time I am done. I will try those things tomorrow. I did do a compression test prior, but it was with the old gas, old oil and the engine was cold. The lowest one was at 178 PSI, the highest 210 PSI. I will do one gain tomorrow the right way.
Just an FYI, I don't think it matters, but on the trailer the ski can hit 10k RPMs no problem, it is only in the water that it struggles, I could only get it to 6K RPMs, I will check the plugs and see if one is wet or looks different, they are all new and I will check the spark on the coils.
Thanks for the tips, I will let you know how it turns out.
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08-11-2011, 07:57 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bear - Delaware
Posts: 739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xenus7850
Thanks so much for your help. Test drive not so good today, once in the water it stalled a few times, but once it got warm, seemed to be fine. Here is the issue, I was only able to get the RPMs up to around 6k on wide open throttle. Ski only went about 10 MPH. Ran it around for about 10 mintues to see if I could get it to improve, but nothing. I have changed the oil, oil is at the correct level, made absolutely sure to chack it hot and the level is fine, I changed the plugs, new oil filter, new gas with SeaFoam injector cleaner.
Nor sure what to check next, my though is the jet pump wear ring, I believe that is what it is called. My question is based on what I described, what could it be, what should I check and how should I test these parts to know what the problem is.
Thanks in advance.
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The only way to check your wear ring to take off the pump nozzle and get to the impeller to see the distance between the impeller blades and the wear ring no more than 1/16 th -1/8th inch gap. Here is a pic of mine.
Sometimes you can flip them 180 degrees and use the opposite edge.
__________________
 2006 RXT with RIVA STAGE THREE KIT 295 HP
2009 RXT-IS 255 HP
2008 GTX 215 HP
Land Rocket - 2003 Z06 Corvette, Chevy
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