vx110 hull leak - PWC Forum: The best hang-out for Personal WaterCraft enthusiasts
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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vx110 hull leak

I was able to repair the very common problem with the yamaha vx1100 hull leak. I thought i would post some pics and a little info so it might help some one else with the same problem and I am sure there will be someone. Mine is a 2005 Yamaha vx110 four stroke. I first noticed the leak between the joint pipe and the adhesive material yamaha used. Of course upon removing the cap on the plate I snapped a bolt. I was able to get another one that was stuck by using pb blaster and salt away and a lot patience going back and forth. Anyhow I had to snap the plate to get it off. So five days later and overnight delivery I got the parts (about $100 with shipping). Using a heat gun from harbor freight I heated up the plate and was able to remove it fairly easy. With the same method I removed the rest of the resin it all came off a lot easier than I thought it would . It just peeled right off (probably why it leaked).I did my home work on the adhesive to use with the new plate. Like everyone said 5200 is the best for the job. However I called 3m just to be anal. When I spoke with them they said the 7 day cure 5200 had a 360 hold strength on metal (however they measure that). And the 24 hour cure had a 200 hold strength. THere is a metal primer called ec 1945 however it is sold in industry amounts and is difficult to get. i abandoned that idea. The 3m rep seemed to think I would be fine as long as I scuffed up the metal with a 120 grit sandpaper and the deck of the ski. ABSOLUTELY NO ALCOHOL TO CLEAN ANY SURFACES it reacts with the 5200 and breaks it down acetone is fine.
I went with the 24 hour 5200 because I just didn't want to wait its late in the season and i wanted to use it and other guys on here said it worked for them. If it were spring i would of used the 7 day stuff.
Ok, once that was determined it was time to move on to the next dilemma what to fasten the plat down with the original screws really had no bite and it went into just fiberglass not the best stuff to grab. after another good amount of research I went with #14 one inch stainless steel screw. Once I put the plate and the 5200 one only one screw grabbed really good the other two not so great. I place a peice of wood between the plate and the top of the ski and wedged it in to hold it down. that seemed to be the best way until the 5200 cured. I pulled the bead of the 5200 up the edge of the plate just to try to grab more of the metal and for a better seal. I was carful not to get 5200 in the screw holes not sure if it would of made a difference. Once it hardened I put the ski in and never seen so little water in the bottom of the ski. IT WORKED. Not a bad job, Pulling the engine and waiting for the parts took the longest. If you are mechanically inclined and not afraid to attack a job I would recommend to attempt. I rank it a 5 or 6 out of 10 for difficulty.
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-04-2011, 02:27 PM
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Nice job, and good write up and photos. This ought to be made a "sticky" someplace. I'm sure someone else will be asking about the same problem in a couple of months.,

2008 Yamaha FX HO Cruiser
2010 Hurricane Sundeck 2100
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 12:07 AM
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Very interesting write up. Was this type of connection used for many years by yamaha? Mine is leaking water from somewhere, slowly, but it does (yamaha 760 twin carb 97). Do you have the access to this plate without pulling the engine? I know that removing the plate is the right way to do, but it is complicated and time consuming. What about removing some old seal (by cutting it with a blade, let's say), using a sand paper to scratch the surface and putting some seal on the edges of the plate? It would not be as good, but it may work. What do you think?
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 12:11 PM
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It can leak on any ski, but the problem is primarily found on the VX model due to the design of the joint pipe connection, and the sealant that Yamaha uses. The 760 has a different type of seal, but it may still leak.

I can tell you from past posts, and other guys that have done the repair, the it will not work trying to just add sealant (at least on the VX model). To completely fix the leak you have to completely remove the seal, clean it and use a good quality marine sealant to fix it. You may not have to remove the engine, but you will probably need to pull it forward enough to be able to get the joint apart and cleaned.

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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-06-2011, 07:29 AM
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Nicely done!

Ive had Vx 1100s in the past and it would seem this is a common issue, nice write up tho, good for future reference

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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-16-2012, 01:48 PM
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I know this is an older thread but i've picked up a vx1100 with a similiar problem.

Do you have to move the engine to get this done ??
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-22-2012, 09:25 PM
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hope i won't have to do this soon, do you think is because of age? instead of maybe jumping waves and landing wrong?

2007 Yamaha Vx Cruiser
2005 Acura TL A-Spec
2002 BMW 530i Sport
2003 Mazda Tribute ES
2004 BMW 325Ci SMG M Sport <- Sold
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-23-2012, 12:07 AM
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Working on fixing mine and the longest part sure is the waiting for the order to arrive.
I ordered new parts from boats.net a week ago and its still in transit.
The engine is pulled, cleaned, all wirings get re-taped.
Im thinking on changing the oil hose to clear hose- any recommended ? Not the cheapo from Lowes as it will melt when oil gets hot. I can't seem to find clear oil tubes just the black ones at the auto stores.

I believe this problem caused by usage, and jumping waves...which is the norms for jetskis. And the main thing is by Yamaha using cheap glue. 3m 5200 cost $25/tube sure isn't cheap and going to fix the problem once and for all.

While I tried to get the shaft apart, all 4 of my screws broke loose. Had to saw, chisel, and hammered the damn thing apart...thats why new parts are on order and just to have it new give me a peace of mind when out there in deep water...knowing it wont start sinking.


btw, anyone know if these skis are unsinkable ? like the old one filled with foam ? or if too much water enter the hull...by sear weight will sink this pwc ?
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-23-2012, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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It will not sink. Unfortunately I know from experience. when I first got my ski I put it in and the drain plug was broken. I came out an hour later and it ski was full of water. it was done taking water just floating with the engine 3/4 under water. I was pissed the dealer fixed the engine but I had to clean the engine and hope for the best. When I called yamaha to complain the told me the unit will not sink.
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-23-2012, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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czer v there was a year they went to a plastic plate and fixed the problem not sure if it was 2007 or not. The main problem is it is very difficult to find a material that is designed to bond metal and plastic.
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