Footwell cracks - PWC Forum: The best hang-out for Personal WaterCraft enthusiasts
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Footwell cracks

I’m new to the pwc scene all. But I do all my own work.

Haven’t done fiberglass before.

I have a VERY low hours gp1300 but it was left with water in footwells for winter.

Now I’ve inherited but need to fix. Crack on one side. Other side has bubbles in same spot.

My concern is painting white and clear coating so the repairs last?

Help

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 05:03 PM
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Hi caddyshack, welcome aboard.
Those are some pretty healthy cracks.
Do your research on "sheet molded compound" or SMC. This is what your ski is made of. It's a bit different than true fiberglass and takes a little different approach to fix. You need to use epoxy based resin NOT polyester.

Westmarine, total boat epoxy, are a good source for supplies.

Below is a cross section of the hull. To fill you in on what's there.
I've done some small repairs to one. Not overly hard just need to know details of how to work with SMC. So like I said Do a bit of research on net lots of info out there. I can't remember all the particulars to it.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 05:36 AM
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Those are nasty. Fortunately you can use what's called "peanut butter" to repair them if they don't go all the way through. It's basically what bondo glass is. If they do, then you will be glassing.
You need to start by doing some sanding to find the extent of the damage. WEAR A GOOD MASK !!! You don't need to be breathing that crap.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 07:53 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. The cracks are all the way through.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 11:41 AM
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Caddyshack,
Some food for thought on your cracked footwell. You say it's a low hr ski rather than fix you could replace if you are a mechanical type person. It would just be parts swapping basically. There are at least two hulls available on eBay for $400/600. That's a lot of effort saved.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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I had thought of that actually... I’m better with mechanical than body work.

Are they Yamaha 1300 hulls?
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Let me ask you guys... is a 2003 gp1300r with low hours sitting 10,11 years with those cracks worth $1000?

The foot pads are all no good. Peeled.

The seat has cosmetic blemishes all over.

The cover that was on it did all this damage. Trapped moisture n froze.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caddyshack051 View Post
Let me ask you guys... is a 2003 gp1300r with low hours sitting 10,11 years with those cracks worth $1000?

The foot pads are all no good. Peeled.

The seat has cosmetic blemishes all over.

The cover that was on it did all this damage. Trapped moisture n froze.
My opinion, no. Half that maybe. But with damaged hull and unknown motor condition??.. more like 200. That said, I paid 500 for my first an 01 gp800r with a blown motor and good hull condition @125hrs. That was 5/6 yrs ago. But with setting that long even the motor is going to need a good bit of work. The crank seals are probably hard and need replacing. Setting is very hard on them. For an added grand you could buy a running ridable ski.

What are the hrs? Can you post pics of interior and whole ski? Where are you located?

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 07:08 AM
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Ok, if you have you already purchased. Lets evaluate the situation. Best bet is to make the best of it. Before you invest a lot
of time and effort into it. It's best to checkout the motor and get running. without putting any extra money in it till you know what you have.
1) put the marvel oil in plug holes and turn crank.
2) leave plugs out attached to the wires and grounded on head. Hook up a battery and bump it over easy a few times. See how it sounds ok and moves. If ok add a bit of 2 stroke oil continue more cranking. Short intervals. Then get compression test. If ok on all (120/130psi) move on.
3) drain old fuel and add 5 gallons of 50/1 with proper oil. And stabilizer in it.
4) try and start as it is. the fuel premix will cover any broken oil lines. See if and how it runs. Run it for only 15 to 20 seconds then let it cool for an HR or so before starting again.

Rods, what's your thoughts?
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 09:28 AM
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So far dave has it., but i dont run for more than 10 to 15 seconds without water. That crack is going to take some work to be done right. Ill post more later.

Last edited by rodsatheart; 05-15-2019 at 11:41 AM.
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