[ex0r]

Nope but I don't recall a nipple on the battery to connect the hose to. Is it on the actual battery, or in the tray?

 

[ex0r]

Any idea where this last hose goes? It comes from the big white vent tube.

 

[ex0r]

Okay I got all the rest hooked up except this one: it's coming from the vent tube. I'm
Not sure where it goes as I don't remember seeing this one disconnected anywhere. I thought it attached to the motor but there's already one in its spot.

 

[ex0r]

Here is a picture of the hoses. The bright blue hose is the one I was referring to with the check valve on it.

 

[ex0r]

I can't see the actual petcock to tell you. I just know that there are four houses coming from the petcock location. Two are the large hoses going directly to the fuel tank, one is a black hose with blue stripe and one is the blue hose with the check valve.

I know the ventilation hose you are referring to, it's on the right side of the hull, behind the engine. I just don't recall the blue hose with the check valve on it being anywhere near it (as I said from what I can tell the blue hose comes from the back with the rest of the hoses).

What I'm confused about with that one is the check valve says tank, with a directional arrow. I'm to understand one end stays disconnected the other end goes to one of the tanks nipples. There is only one end that's not connected from what I can see, it's it's the one that would connect to the tank (the disconnected end had the arrow pointing towards it)

 

[ex0r]

There is a check valve coming from the blue (not clear) hose that's in the bundle of hoses coming from the petcock. There is a 'tank' label on the check valve. This is connected to one nipple on the tank. There is also a black hose with blue stripe in that bundle that we have hooked into the fuel filter and then into the carb on the pump side.

What is the 'pulse hose'? Is that the larger one that plugs into the back of the engine? We have that one in place, too.

We still have one extra hose though.

I am not sure what you meant by venting off the hose should one not be hooked up?

 

[ex0r]

Reserve and on are hooked up. There is a blue hose from the petcock with a check valve on it. That's hooked into the left valve on the tank. The other hose from that goes into the filter then into the left side of the carb opposite the fuel pump. There's a line left over from the fuel pump side of the carb that isn't hooked up anywhere.

 

[ex0r]

It appears I'm having trouble getting the fuel lines hooked up correctly. After hooking up all lines to valves there is still one line left over. I've been trying to find a diagram but all I can find is one that shows where hoses connect to the tank, not the carb and air intake. Could somebody please help me?

 

[ex0r]

No worries. I appreciate the help. Found an owners manual online that says to just use straight 50:1 mix, so once I get it back together hopefully I can fire her up and go.

 

[ex0r]

Wait I'm confused. If you aren't supposed to premix where do you put the oil? Obviously from time to time oil needs to be refilled, usually with a 2 cycle you use the gas tank to do it. This one doesn't?

 

[ex0r]

Also, I noticed oil around the seal where the mid shaft connects in the back, so I'm assuming there are oil chambers in it somewhere, but I couldn't find an oil pan or oil filler so I'm assuming it's a 2 cycle. If that's the case do I need to fill the case with oil ahead of time since the back cover was off as well as the intake and exhaust manifolds, and the front cover and balancer, or is premixing the gas enough?

 

[ex0r]

Where can I find that information? I've scoured the net looking for info on this pwc and have come up short nearly every time. I'm struggling now to reassemble the external parts inside the craft because I can't find component locations.

 

[ex0r]

So...

sorry for the delay in posting. Been really busy.

It appears that the motor was in fact seized up. I took it out and tore it down, and the crank itself and the bearings in the crank are locked up. I was going to unsieze and rebuild, but I found a local eBay store that has a used one for sale. The problem he said with it, is it has a compression of 145 pounds. I am not sure what the typical compression of this engine is, but he said that it is rideable and useable in it's current state, and for only $150 bucks I think it's a steal to get it, drop it in and ride it this season, and when I garage it for the winter pull the head off and replace the gasket. I still have the parts from the other motor in the case the cylinder head is cracked or something.

What do you guys suggest?

 

[ex0r]

The rust is pro from the rings and cyl walls. If there's that much, I would just plan on boring. I'm going to assume that there is rust on the crank. Look very, very, very carefully at the rod needle bearings. If you see even one little speck of rust, or the slightest bit of roughness in the bearing, get the crank rebuilt. If they come apart, carnage will occur. If any doubt, replace. Forgot to mention, replace the crank seals. they are old and bad. if you don't now, you will have an air leak and a lean condition, that will burn that nice new engine up. Cheap insurance.

I found a rebuild kit on ebay for 149, that comes with all of the seals and bearings needed to rebuild it, as well as the pistons and rings. I thought it was one hell of a deal. I managed to get the pistons out of the chamber, and yes, I am going to rebore them. The kit comes .025mm over. As far as the crank goes, there's not a lick of rust on it, and it looks nearly brand new, same with the rods. The rust that's on the cylinders, is very minimal. There just appears to be enough built up around the top of the piston that it sealed the piston to the cylinder wall.

One thing I had a question about, I do not see a kill switch on this at all. The previous owner bought a replacement one, but I cannot locate where it goes. Did this one not come equipped with one? I thought it was a requirement to have them.

 

[ex0r]

This is useful information and I thank you for it. What I meant by refinishing was just shaving off the rust buildup on the top edge of the piston as from what I can see that's where it's bound up at. If I do need new Pistons, I've already priced them on eBay. I've also priced the complete rebuild gasket kit. Worst case, I'm at about 250 to rebuild. Still cheaper than buying new.