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Ya, that's what I thought. She's toast. It will need a full rebuild. The cyl's should be salvageable with just a good cleaning and a touch of scotch Brite and oil. The crank will need be replaced/rebuilt. New Pistons, seals and gaskets. Not a hard job. Just need the manual. And basic hand tools. Only special tools needed wound be torque wrench, feeler gauges, and flywheel puller. The torque wrench and puller can be rented from auto parts store. You'll need to take the coupling off the crank before you break the motor down or have it done by whomever you send the crank to. While the motor is out you can clean the fuel and oil tanks by removing them. Plus the inside of the ski.
Be happy to help you through it if decided to go for it. You'll just need a clean work bench to work from and a place to store cleaned parts.
Do you have a garage/shed to work from?
Try not to turn the motor any more than necessary. Don't want to scratch the cyl at this point. There about $350 to replate one. And should be done in pairs. As a matter of fact put a good dose of 2stroke oil on top of the Pistons to help lube/protect them.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
So been alittle busy with everything going on but I’ve been thinking about if I wanted to do this project and if it would be cost effective but hey why not give it a shot the worst thing to happen is I can’t get it done and sell it right. But now with the quarantine I figure it’s the best time to start pulling parts. Any idea what would be the best bet as to “start here” area for this project? I don’t have a garage but I can bring parts into my basement for storage. And thanks Dave for your help with this.
 

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First if you don't have one, get a service manual. In the general pwc forum there is a manual tab you may find it in there or search ebay. I'd just pull the motor and move into the basement. But before you do set up a nice clean well lit work area. A sheet of plywood on sturdy saw horses will work. Then just slowly dissemble and put all hardware with what it held. Or ziplock bag it with post-it note. Keep a list as you teardown of stuff needing replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Alrighty I will do that, I did print out a manual I found. It looks alittle intimidating but hey why not give it a shot right. With the oil that is in the bottom of the motor is there special stuff that is better than the rest or is it just 2 stroke oil down there?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
So here is what the jugs look like and that crank won’t even turn by hand. The rod on one of the cylinders won’t move at all.
 

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Wow, she's had water in it for quite awhile then, if the brgs have locked up that tight.

I think those may be original nikasil cyl's. Can you post a pic of the skirts on the bottoms of both cyl's. If there original your way ahead of the game, if they have no scratches. From what I can see though they look great. Being nikasil would explains why their not rusted. Original nikasil cyl's are much preferred over bored and sleeved. The nikasil in a hard chrome directly on the aluminum cyl. It allows for much faster heat removal to the water jacket. Usually with nikasil you just replace the Piston and rings for a topend rebuild if there are no scratches. Where as a steel sleeve holds more heat inside the cyl's. And need rebored when rebuilt. Also a nikasil cyl even if damaged can be replated and repaired.
One thing you need to do before going any further is try to remove the coupling from the pto end of the crank. I can't remember if its left or right hand threaded. You'll have to look closely at any treads showing to see which way to turn it off. Don't force it though. It can be done once removed and most places that sell cranks will remove for you if nessesary.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
So Dave I have a good question for ya, the crank that is shot in this motor, I found a decent one for a good price but it says that the bearing on the outer pto side is alittle noisy. Is that something that doesn’t need to be sent away to a special company? I called around and nobody around me wants to even touch it since it’s a Jetski.
 

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Yes, nothing special needed to do PTO brg. Just a press and brg tool. But I'd be a bit shy of a crank with one bad brg. The others probably are not far behind.
I've been looking all morning for cranks. Only finding SBT and hotrods.
I am working with another guy (fadagger) in the same boat as you. He found and sent his crank to shop in NJ to be rebuilt. It will be factory new when returned. I'm trying to confirm info before I forward to you. I don't want to give bad info to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Ok awesome thanks for the info, I won’t be jumping at that crank then. I’d rather do this one time and not chance a rod popping in to say hi.
 

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Ok, the place that fadagger sent his crank to is called "Erickson's machine and performance" (see pic). I've never worked with them but they appear to have quite a shop. I ran a small machine shop just out of school. Till a became an industrial mechanic 35yrs ago. Now I work in a shop that probably takes up 2+ acres.
I would say give them a call and see what you can set up.
Hope this helps.
Dave,

I believe the second pick of "Atlantic jet sports" is either his front store or associated with him somehow. (Maybe you can find out for me when you call) but they have the hotrod crank for $640. So keep that in mind. If building yours it is close to that, you might want to just get it instead. That's way cheaper than I found them on line anywhere. I'm saving this place to my info sheet for my own info. There not far from me, an easy day trip.
 

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Hello to this thread,

Bran,

Dave has been a big help all the way around.

This year I acquired a 2005 GP800r (Same motor) and a XLT1200 (like an 800 with three of everything instead of two, three cylinders, carbs, pistons...)

These were my first ski projects ever, the 800 was run without two cycle oil and burnt up both pistons and cylinders.

These are the things I did to the 800

Carb kits from Mikuni and new needle valve (reuse old spring for needle valve according to Dave in DE)

New TYGON 1/8" oil injection lines with zipties (tied with ziptie gun)

Disassembled power valves from heads, both power valves were broken off the stem, My heads were shot, so I had to get sleeved ones from SBT along with new pistons

If your heads clean up ok, it'll be nice to make sure the power valves get the exhaust gunk cleaned out. easy to disassemble, two allen screws in each power valve. Carb cleaner and toothbrush worked for me.

New gaskets where I took apart anything with a gasket.

Primed Oil pump with a drill counter clockwise until oil came out of injection lines at the carburetors. Took a minute.

One of the things I did was make sure all the cables (throttle, choke, power valve, oil pump) were adjusted properly according to the service manual. Especially the oil pump. There are instructions.

Premixed first tank of fuel (50:1) to make sure the engine is breaking in properly and to confirm it is injecting oil correctly.

Other peoples Ideas on this site were a big help.

Nothing was too overly difficult. Intimidating at first, but it went together very well.

I'll let you know how my crankshaft from Erickson's looks when I get it back. They are removing the driveshaft and flywheel and reinstalling them with new seals so it's ready to drop in. It'll save you from flywheel pulling.

Good luck, listen to Dave.

Just a quick thought, It took a while to start, significant cranking to prime the fuel. I ended up with a quarter second squirt of staring fluid in the plug holes after verifying spark to ground and it fired up and ran well. Haven't had it on the water yet.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Thanks I appreciate it, Dave has deft been a big help with this project and my last project an 02 xlt800. I actually found a whole bottom half of a motor about an hour and a half from me for 300 buck. The bearing feel really solid on it. The guy said the motor had 70 hours on it. Figure since I was able to feel everything and see it in person I would chance it. Trying to keep everything with budget on this you know. Now just to find some rings and bearings for the pistons, and clean clean clean that nasty hull...I’ll put up some pics of the hull tomorrow. It is really gross.
 

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Thanks for the kind words guys. I've got 45+ yrs as a mechanic, machinist and enjoy sharing my knowledge to help.
I would use WSM performance for Piston rings and wrist pin brgs.
Did the other base you got come with the Reed valve assemblies? If so that's a big plus. If not you may want to see if he has them for sale. Just a thought. Post a pic or two of the new base.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Your welcome Dave you definitely earned every bit of thanks and then some. It didn’t come with them but he did say he would look for them and throw them in for an extra 15. But from what I have read those reed assemblies are crazy expensive sometimes. I did order wrist pin bearings from wsm but I didn’t think of the piston rings. I will be ordering them tonight though.
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From the pics, It looks like you got a deal there. I would clean it up real good. This is always risky, but I would tip the base so intake and jug flange are level. Then fill with fuel and rotate crank to clean out brgs not knowing what may be in it. You want to get fuel to about the center line of the crank. Then dump and do a second time. Then spray on some 2 stroke oil from a small spray bottle. Plus put some oil in each crank brg hole on either side of the rods and spin it more to coat well. And also oil the lower rod ends. Don't be afraid to use the oil. Then wrap it up in a trash bag after the fuel evaporates.
Your Pistons will need a good cleaning, as will the cyl's then you need to check Piston/cyl clearances before you buy just rings. Your Pistons look dirty yet clean them lightly with scotch Brite and oil in a cross hatch pattern on the skirts, and pin holes. Then wash well.
The 66E on the Piston tops says they are original. Or they've been replaced with Yamaha factory original. So I'd say low hrs on original motor if I had to guess.
The Piston/cyl clearance is .0039 to .0041.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
From the dash on the ski it said it had 38.7 hours on it. There is 2 stroke oil in the case right now. Should that be dumped and then wait a few days to put the fuel in or could it be dumped and then just add the fuel right away? I do have it wrapped in a garbage bag now just sitting in the basement.
 

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Not knowing how long or condition of storage Pryor to you I just think it's best to clean.
I'd turn it up and dump the worst of the oil out then flush it good. Just be careful. Don't smoke! Lol.
 
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