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Discussion Starter #1
My dad bought his PwC brand new and right now it's only got 15hrs on it. He parked it years ago because when you try to crank it, the plugs foul out because the cylinders get flooded with oil and then it wont even spin over. To get it to spin over again, you have to pull the plugs and get the excess oil out. What could be the issue here? With only 15hrs on it, the whole engine compartment is spanking brand new. I know people say the oil pump rarely fails, but could it be the pump? I have read on a site where if the pump fails, it's just a full flow of oil. I dont know if this is true or not. If it's not the pump, what else could it be? All the hoses are still basically new even though it's going on 20+ years. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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Get the manual and check the oil pump cable adjustment. If the oil injection lines are not soft and flexible, they need to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply! I looked at the hoses and they are soft and flexible. The cable adjustment appears to match that of the manual. Same gap
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I wouldnt know. Its empty now, it's also been sitting for 10 years or so... but theres barely any oil in the bottom of the hull.
 

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You can always disconnect the pump and oil line and go back to premix 40:1 and run that in the fuel tank. Perhaps someone prepared it for storage by putting oil in the cylinders before it was stored? In which case it should clear up pretty quick. Or some excess oil got into the engine somehow, and it all drained into the crankcase while stored, and now is getting circulated. Again, once its out it should run well.
 

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My dad is the sole 1 time owner, he didnt winterize it, once this happened he just parked it. And he doesnt want to premix. I have read that premix has caused engines to lock up and we dont want to take that chance.
 

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I’m gonna take a stab at this: my thought is that when your dad parked
It, there was water in the coolant paths of the engine. Over the years, the water froze, expanded and has either cracked or bent parts of the engine such that the oil is no longer sealed out. My understanding is that you’re cranking the engine and - as a result of that cranking, motor oil is ingressing to the cylinder. The primary reason is because the cylinder develops negative pressure and “sucks” the oil into it.
If that guess is correct, your engine is kaput.
Otherwise, perhaps something else that’s supposed to keep oil out is NG. To test my theory, take it to an auto shop - pretty much any decent one - and ask them to do a cylinder leak-down test. They’ll put their machine on the engine, shut the valves and draw a vacuum and watch to see how fast the vacuum pressure decays. That would get your first indication as to what is wrong.
Good luck
 

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I’m gonna take a stab at this: my thought is that when your dad parked
It, there was water in the coolant paths of the engine. Over the years, the water froze, expanded and has either cracked or bent parts of the engine such that the oil is no longer sealed out. My understanding is that you’re cranking the engine and - as a result of that cranking, motor oil is ingressing to the cylinder. The primary reason is because the cylinder develops negative pressure and “sucks” the oil into it.
If that guess is correct, your engine is kaput.
Otherwise, perhaps something else that’s supposed to keep oil out is NG. To test my theory, take it to an auto shop - pretty much any decent one - and ask them to do a cylinder leak-down test. They’ll put their machine on the engine, shut the valves and draw a vacuum and watch to see how fast the vacuum pressure decays. That would get your first indication as to what is wrong.
Good luck
This engine is a two stroke. Completely different than any four stroke. There is no crankcase oil. Oil is injected via a oil injection pump mounted on the front of the engine, and is transferred through poly type lines to the intake runners.
These engine require a pressure test, not a leak down test, and are NOT serviced at a automotive repair shops. The crankcase on a running two stroke is under a positive pressure to help charge the cyl's. when they achieve that momentary negative charge before the transfer ports are uncovered.
 

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My dad is the sole 1 time owner, he didnt winterize it, once this happened he just parked it. And he doesnt want to premix. I have read that premix has caused engines to lock up and we dont want to take that chance.
You cannot premix this engine. The crank is fed oil also. Premix doesn't cause the seizure, failure to add the appropriate amount of oil, or running the engine lean will cause it. Some people are afraid of oil injection systems, but if properly maintained, will last the life of the ski, or longer. There are check valves in the oil injection lines, and they may have gotten stuck allowing the oil to drain, which is what I'm thinking. You can pull the plugs, secure rags over the plug holes, and crank the engine in 5 second shots until most of the oil is out. Then is should fire. Seeing the age, even though the oil lines are still flexible, you should keep in the back of you mind they are prob. due to be changed sometime soon. No big deal, just get some Tygon fuel line (I think it's 1/8", but double check). I would at least re secure them with new 3 or 4 inch zip ties to make sure they wont come off. If you do replace them, go by the manual religously to bleed the system.
There is another precaution you need to think heavily about with this ski, and that is the cooling system modification (if it has not already been done). The Di and ultra 130 use water from the cooling system to cool the emm. It runs through the stator cover then to the emm. The stator covers and emm's are known to get plugged from corrosion. When that happens, the emm will overheat, throw a over heat warning, and chances are will fry. Pretty pricey to get it repaired.
The mod is to T off the stator inlet and feed the emm directly, and create another pisser from the emm outlet. You will also need to pull the emm and check the cooling fittings, and check the stator cover for corrosion. You will use 1/4" heater hose, and 1/4" brass barbed T and zip ties. I found a used oem pisser I had laying around and drilled a hole in the same location as the existing pisser on the other side of the bow, and looked factory. You can prob. find a Di pisser on ebay. The existing pisser is easy to remove so you can measure the hole and get measurements to locate the new one.
I worked with someone that actually cleaned his stator cover cooling with white vinegar. He made a loop with pieces of rubber hose connected to the inlet and oulet of the cover, and long enough to get out of the engine compartment, filled with vinegar, and let it set over night. My theroy behind this was white vinegar is used to clean the mineral build up from coffee makers, so why wouldn't it work here. Evidently it worked.


You can always disconnect the pump and oil line and go back to premix 40:1 and run that in the fuel tank. Perhaps someone prepared it for storage by putting oil in the cylinders before it was stored? In which case it should clear up pretty quick. Or some excess oil got into the engine somehow, and it all drained into the crankcase while stored, and now is getting circulated. Again, once its out it should run well.
You cannot premix this engine.
 

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Thank you all for educating me. I am not experienced in these, but am learning, which is why I put that I was taking a stab at the answer. So I appreciate the fraternal correction. Also, I was feeling pretty good after a night out, so there’s that.
good info. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you all for your replies. I've got vacation time coming up so I will have more time to look it over. But atleast I know what I'm looking for. Thanks again!
 
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