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Discussion Starter #1
So this is the second time this happened the first time I actually had a hose unplugged at the exhaust manifold and it let water in the ski. I thought that's what caused the ski to die, but it happened again with no water in the engine compartment. So I take off from the dock and within 5 minutes at 3mph the ski dies, I try to restart and it clicks one more time and then dead. The starter relay is toast. No clicking sound, gets Voltage from the green start button, new relay works and starts the ski, on water dies and repeat. This one is a cheapo I know but the first one was not. Battery is great have a GP1200R and same battery swapped them, no difference.
Is it a coincidence the ski dies at the same time as the relay goes out?

Good thing I got 2, am able to get towed back to dock!!! Was thinking to actually make a remote starter switch and connect to the 2 red terminals on the starter relay and start it that way, on water as soon as it dies. On the trailer it starts right away if I jump the 2 red wires, but relay is always toast.

I tested it in parallel to the GP1200R and it's pretty much the same deal. the CDI though, upon looking at it compared to the GP1200R the back of it doesn't look so smooth. It looks like it developed some scaling or salt build up. It could be from overheating, I don't know but it looks weird.
 

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Sorry had a draft in email and got buried at work last night.
Yes, I'm pretty sure the plug boot will come off the end of the wire. And wire can be cut back carefully and end reinstalled. If the boot is whats torn you'll have to buy aftermarket, or Maybe from dealer. Otherwise you'll have to buy the entire wire from partzilla or babbittsonline. Or used assembly on ebay.
I hate to say it, but I think the problem is actually the relay itself. I have heard and seen others having this issue with cheeper Amazon/aftermarket units.

I dont believe that the cdi is an issue. I've seen that on some before. Unknown as to what it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I just went out again and I actually made up a switch from the 2 red wire big posts on the relay and I actually used that along with the green start switch to restart when and if it died which was once.
So it does go fast at 6k RPM but from idle to 3k RPM it sounds like it is flooding somewhat and there is also the issue with take off it doesn't jump to take off right away it hesitates and you can hear the RPM jet to 6k, just like a clutch slipping, and then it starts to take off but it's not instant.
The GP1200R is great everything is quick haven't checked the plugs to see what color they are.
I will upload a video of the symthoms on Dropbox.
 

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I can't tell from video, but your description is classic cavitation. Usually caused by impeller to wear ring gap being to big, or an air leak into the front of the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
This is the one that made the noise that you said is the propeller bearings. In the video you hear the ski being revved up and it doesn't really take off also you hear a 6k high RPM and still hesitant take off . Some backfire at low 10 RPM speed. I have to read up on the cavitation deal, haven't dealt with that before. The GP1200R doesn't show any symptoms like that. Also both skis have the exhaust odor that you can clearly smell on water.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The impeller looks bad haven't taken it out yet. I will have to replace. I have to see the ring too. Do you think the bearings are shut also? And what pitch impeller should I get? Hopefully this will take care of the cavitation.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes the XL1200Ltd, I watched a few videos on other models cannot get one on this model, and they all looked the same. So if I take it all out what should I open the cone and change the seals and add new grease, I read that I can make my own with 50/50 mix any marine and amsoil gear oil9I have the 75/90). how much do I apply?
Remember in one of the videos it made a metal sound and you said it's probably the bearings. to remove those I need a puller and to put them back a press, I think I have the puller but not the press, maybe I can improvise.
Also I read about transom plate replacement, do I need it? That's where the ring s right?
Also intake grate and ride plate. Don't know if I want to go all out since I don't race am only looking for stock performance with no cavitation, like the GP120R seems to have.
And last but not least the reassembly will require some silicone to put the big pieces together, what type?
 

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For an impeller, I'd go with the solas YF-CD-12/18. You also need the shaft tool to hold the shaft and I beleave the impeller tool comes with it. You'll have to make sure on that though.
Impros.com for the impeller, tools, brgs, seals. They carry everything you'll need. You may or may not need the wear ring. If the ring is oem and not scored up bad you can probably reuse. If its got a plastic replacement. I'd find a good oem on ebay.
A puller and press make it easier but are not necessary. A good flat faced punch and hammer will work, you just need to be careful at it. Moving from side to side and moving around as you tap each brg on. Keeping the brg square on the shaft or in housing, always. If installing on the shaft tap only on the inner brg race. If putting it in the housing tap on the outside race only. Be sure not to mark the housing or shaft.
I dry fit all my pump parts. No silicone. But you can use it if you want to be sure they seal. Just don't go heavy, very light coat is fine. Any kind will do.
For lube I used a mix of marine grease and synthetic marine gear oil. Mix it and pour into pump after its together.
Won't need transom plate unless there is a problem when removing pump. Ride plate and intake can remain stock.
Pic below is a clip of solas impeller application chart. Showing you ski.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
How much of the 50/50 do you pour in the pump, do you fill it?
So I should do the seals and 2 hearings then.
What about this seal
 

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You'll want to just about fill it. I wouldn't fill it above the upper brg or you won't get the cone on. Get it up into the upper brg. Needs some air space for expansion.

That seal kit is for your intake shoe. It closes up all the air pockets in the shoe. It will help with cavitation also. If you use it also. Youll need to silicone the pieces in place. 100% silicone adhesive caulk. Then seal the edges of shoe as in pic below.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
there are 2 bearing kits :

 

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Discussion Starter #14
Took the pump unit out and there are some broken pieces like the intake duct chipped, intake screen broken. So there are 2 videos showing the impeller and the broken pieces plus pictures.
 

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Either of the brg kits will do. The one just supplies some of the other seals you may or may not need.
Looks like your going to need an intake grate and probably should replace the shoe also. I see several cracks and pieces missing from it. I'm betting that your pump probably ate the intake pieces. That would account for all the damage to the inlet side and impeller.
I haven't seen a good pic of wear ring yet so no call on it yet.
 

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Yes, but you only want to remove any high spots. Do not try to make it all smooth by sanding out grooves or scratches. This will only increase your clearance gap.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I was looking at impeller from the Solas you mentioned , found an SBT for 160, but there are some stock ones for 40 bucks in great shape. How important is it to spend the 260 on a Solas.
 
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