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[/QUOTE]
What’s the packing made out of? What should I have on hand?
This will be another task for winter. There’s only 96 hours on the original motor. I’ll for sure let you know what I find. Thanks again Dave![/QUOTE]

I disconnected the fill hose and sending unit wires. Put a mess of paper towels in the floor of the ski. Unbolted tank straps, an appsolute 'PITA'. Then took loose the hose going to the pump and removed with finger over hose connection on tank.
You probably will need to remove the exhaust From the rubber coupling on back to get room.
Tie the hose to the pump up so it doesn't drain everything out of the pump or plug the line.
The packing is a donut made of some kind of foam rubber. To seal the end of the filter and tank connection.

You may be surprised what you find. But then again it may not be to bad other the paraffin. Although my 02 gpr only had 30hrs on it a couple yrs back when I bought it. And it had a mess in it. My 01 had a hand full of sand in it. It was a beach ski so they weren't very careful filling it. But then again they never flushed either. Motor was a corroded mess in cooling jackets.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Any ideas to fix the following issue that I think is carburetor or fuel delivery related. My wave runner is breaking in well except I need to slightly choke the carbs to get speeds higher than 10mph. If I increase throttle while the choke is fully in (open) it boggs down and sounds like it’s going to die out. Only after choking a little does it take off to a good speed upwards of 50 mph. It’s never died and seems to idle well. Occasionally I’m hearing it miss but that could be because the plugs are oil fouled. I had the break in oil mixed in the gas for the first 10 gallons. I added a fresh 4 gallons or so this last weekend. I’d say there was about 4-5 gallons left in the tank so there’s still a oil mix. I did change the plugs but still no change with the carb issue. Any suggestions?
 

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Hello.....

I Also have a 1999 XL1200 Ski here in the UK. I was told that these engines are pretty good as they don't have the reed valves fitted which break up and lunch the engine....Apparently the reed valves were fitted to the XLT1200.....Does anybody know if my information is correct?
 

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Hello.....

I Also have a 1999 XL1200 Ski here in the UK. I was told that these engines are pretty good as they don't have the reed valves fitted which break up and lunch the engine....Apparently the reed valves were fitted to the XLT1200.....Does anybody know if my information is correct?
w

Hi Keith,
The 99 does have Reed valves. But may not have power valves in the exhaust. listings for US models show that the 99 had power valves and the 98 did NOT. But that may not be the case with UK models. Easy way to tell. On the left top of the motor there will be 3 little four bolt covers. If it has power valves. there at an angle and partly covered by the exhaust manifold. See pic. IMG_20191014_215447_1571104646844.jpg IMG_20191014_215447_1571104646844.jpg IMG_20191014_215447_1571104646844.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #27
At this point I'd leave it till after riding season. Do it as an off season repair. If it won't come out gripping the insert with vise grips. Then you may need to drill a Small hole in the top of the insert to spray in some pb blaster. Let it soak a day or two. Then try with vice grips again. Once out you'll need an 8mm tap to clean up the insert threads. Clean the outside of the insert and epoxy real good with acetone. Rough it up with sand paper and clean again. Then mix up plenty of jb weld and reglue the insert with plenty of jb weld. Then use anti seise on your bolts.
Since the season is over I went ahead and drilled small holes and let penetrating oil do it’s thing. I got one out, one snapped off and the other two are just spinning. Not sure if it’s my vice grips but that doesn’t seem to work. Even tried a little torch on the bolts. I’m getting a good clamp on the brass inserts but it’s difficult to contort your arms in into the hull. I’m sure some of you know what I mean. So it’s looking like I’m going to have a good size repair for the winter. I’ve read some advice on how to remove the epoxy inside the hull and so forth. First is to get the bolts removed. Maybe I need to really heat up the bolts but I don’t want to damage the hull. Any advice? Thanks.
 

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Sense you've already broken one and others are siesed. You may want to replace the brass inserts with one piece ones. I believe the ones used on the 04 and up GP1300r will work based on my findings. (Babbittsonline part number F1G-U8571-02-00). This will require some work to prep and glue/epoxy in, but would be a permanent repair. If you go this route clean area well with acetone before and after sanding.

Check out this sticky on Greenhulk pwc forum. It's in Yamaha, how to's (see pic). this is a pump tunnel reinforcement sticky but uses the one piece plates to replace inserts.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Sense you've already broken one and others are siesed. You may want to replace the brass inserts with one piece ones. I believe the ones used on the 04 and up GP1300r will work based on my findings. (Babbittsonline part number F1G-U8571-02-00). This will require some work to prep and glue/epoxy in, but would be a permanent repair. If you go this route clean area well with acetone before and after sanding.

Check out this sticky on Greenhulk pwc forum. It's in Yamaha, how to's (see pic). this is a pump tunnel reinforcement sticky but uses the one piece plates to replace inserts.
Thank You! After I remove all the epoxy that’s holding in the inserts, will they just come out? It seems they’re held in somehow. I see how the bracket will work if the bolt spread is the same dimension. What kind of epoxy should I get? Is it the west marine? I’m guessing some 5200 will hold it in place once I get the alignment right with the shoe bracket. Then epoxy them in from the hull. For what the bracket costs it’s worth a try to just order since I have lots of work to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Dave, I just found the greenhulk thread. Looks like it answers my questions. I’ll look at it in detail later. Thanks again!!
 

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Dave, I just found the greenhulk thread. Looks like it answers my questions. I’ll look at it in detail later. Thanks again!!
No problem 👍😁.
The inserts set in a hexagon molded into the hull. Then they goop the epoxy on top. I have one on my ride plate I fixed using the jb weld trick. But if I were in your situation I go with those plates.
I'd think you'll have to grind/sand the area for the plates a then use some west Marine epoxy to build it up level and then use some more to epoxy the plate down. You Could even use tape on the outside of the hull to cover bolt holes and epoxy over all of it. Then re-drill the holes. Bolt the plates down from outside and epoxy it down.
 

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Yes part number 59 is it

There are 2 stickies on pump tunnel reinforcement. You want the 2nd one down the list by Osidebill. He includes the bolt plates.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Dave, I just found the greenhulk thread. Looks like it answers my questions. I’ll look at it in detail later. Thanks again!!
No problem 👍😁.
The inserts set in a hexagon molded into the hull. Then they goop the epoxy on top. I have one on my ride plate I fixed using the jb weld trick. But if I were in your situation I go with those plates.
I'd think you'll have to grind/sand the area for the plates a then use some west Marine epoxy to build it up level and then use some more to epoxy the plate down. You Could even use tape on the outside of the hull to cover bolt holes and epoxy over all of it. Then re-drill the holes. Bolt the plates down from outside and epoxy it down.
It was a success removing the brass inserts without damaging the hexagon seats in the hull. Using a heat gun was the perfect tool for softening up the epoxy. I’m thinking I just might use some 5200 to reseal back in place. I don’t think the bracket will be necessary now. I’ll rough up the area and clean well with some acetone. Any idea where to get the same type of green colored epoxy? It seems the west marine or marine tex is clear. Is that the correct epoxy for this application? See attached I took a few photos.
 

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Looks good 👍.

I think I'd still use the plates. Just need to grind down the high hex edges. And glue them down. Just need to make sure it's closed in so water can't come in.

If you use the old be sure the threads inside are ok. Clean them well and treads as well with a tap. Rough it all up hull included. And use jbweld. Put anti seise on a bolt and litely secure the inserts in place. I never use lock tite, only anti seise. Especially on the inserts in the hull.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Looks good 👍.

I think I'd still use the plates. Just need to grind down the high hex edges. And glue them down. Just need to make sure it's closed in so water can't come in.

If you use the old be sure the threads inside are ok. Clean them well and treads as well with a tap. Rough it all up hull included. And use jbweld. Put anti seise on a bolt and litely secure the inserts in place. I never use lock tite, only anti seise. Especially on the inserts in the hull.
The new brackets fit perfectly. There was no need to grind down the hexagonal seats. I roughed up the area and cleaned out the holes with sandpaper. Also, cleaned with acetone. It’s all ready for 5200 and epoxy. See photos👍
 

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Looks good. I need to order a set of those plates also. I've been thinking of reinforcing my pump tunnel in near future.
 
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