Personal Water Craft Forum banner
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my first PWC, and I don't know much about them. I've read around and understand this watercraft should go about 55 MPH. I have rigged mine for fishing so I have a Soar/GPS on it and my top speed so far, by GPS, is only 40-45 trimmed and on average water, not glass. This thing runs very good, starts right up, idles smooth, 10,000 RPM, has about 300 hours on the motor, and I have about 50 lbs of extra weight on it for fishing. I weigh about 170. I've only taken it out a couple times so far for a couple hours each, as I'm getting used to it. I got a good deal on it, it was a real beater, but mechanically sound. I think it was a rental in a previous life, I can tell by some signs. So is this normal degradation of speed from wear and tear? Engine seams very strong, so maybe pump is worn? Or maybe just the beat up hull is robbing me of some speed? On plane is cruses about 35 MPH at 8000 RPM, and that feels comfortable and about half throttle. The second half of the throttle gives me the 10,000 RPM but not much more speed.

One other question, running on the hose, out of the water, I don't get but a splatter of water out of the port outlet. Is that normal running on hose? I can't see if it has output in the water, as it's impossible for me to examine while I running it in water. It hasn't overheated, so it must be cooling some how!

Thanks!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,032 Posts
10000 RPM is the max. for that engine. If you are getting 10K the engine is fine. Top speed should be around 53 mph in perfect conditions. Your added weight could be a factor and could easily account for another couple of mph loss. Another very possible factor at 300 hours is a warn wear ring/impeller, especially if the ski was run in shallow water situations. You can pull off the intake grate, and inspect the impeller to wear ring clearance which should be between 0.35 and 0.45 mm. Also look for any dents or wear at the edges of the impeller blades which will also reduce performance.

You should see water coming out of the port side pisser within 1 minute running on the hose or in the water. The ski needs to be level. Sometimes it will almost only be water vapor, but you should be able to put your finger over the hole and feel some output. Be sure you don't have a partial clog in the output port. Take something small and be sure it is clear. Bugs like to build nests in there and debris gets stuck in there easily.

The starboard side pisser only operates when the engine is running over 5000 rpm or if you have a lot of hose pressure, you usually don't see it when you are riding, and only on the hose if you have lots of hose pressure. It is not good to run the ski for more than a few seconds at high rpm on the hose. When you run the ski on the hose you can clamp off the cooling water input line, and you will get a lot more water through the system. Both pissers usually expel water when you do this, and it is not a bad way to completely flush the system.

If you were not getting cooling water through the system, you would get a high temp. alarm pretty quickly.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply Ernest T!

I know the impeller is not perfect, I can see a few nicks and dings in the leading edge. I suspect this ski has seen a lot of abuse from stupid owners/riders. It goes fast enough for getting me to my fishing holes, I just won't be able to keep up with the bass boats, but that's okay. I was sure surprised when I took it out the second time with the GPS regarding the speed. The first trip it seamed like I was going a lot faster than I found out I was really going. And the speedo was not working very well, it would not get past 30, and registered less than 30 when I went faster...

It was in the driveway on a uphill slope when I was running it on the hose, so it was several degs from level. Maybe that's why I was not getting water out the "pisser", I like that term. When you say "clamp off the cooling water input line", exactly where are you speaking of, I'll try that next time I run it.

Thanks again!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,032 Posts
It was in the driveway on a uphill slope when I was running it on the hose, so it was several degs from level. Maybe that's why I was not getting water out the "pisser", I like that term. When you say "clamp off the cooling water input line", exactly where are you speaking of, I'll try that next time I run it.

Thanks again!
From where you connect the water hose to the ski, follow that hose down and you will see that there is a "Y" connection in the bottom of the ski. The other side of the "Y" connects to a hose going back through the transom. This is the cooling water inlet hose where water is picked up from the pump while you are riding, and pumped through the ski. When you run the ski on the hose probably 75% of the water simply flows out of this hose on to the ground, and never gets circulated through the ski. You can clamp this hose off with a pair of vice grips (don't get too aggressive or you will damage the hose). You just want to limit the amount of water flowing out of the ski through this hose onto the ground, so you don't have to completely close it off. Clamping this line helps in situations where you have limited hose pressure, or where you want to flush the entire system. Be sure the engine is running before turning on the water if you clamp off this hose, because you also increase the risk of flooding the engine.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top