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Forgot to mention David over at the jet ski store has the metal clips for the oil lines and the tools to install. He sells a kit with everything you need. Just in case you want to use them instead Jetskistore.com
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Forgot to mention David over at the jet ski store has the metal clips for the oil lines and the tools to install. He sells a kit with everything you need. Just in case you want to use them instead Jetskistore.com
Thanks!
I have some question,(and help me verify), the fuel line is 1/4 ID(for delievery and return), and oil line is 1/8ID for pump to carb, and 1/4ID for tank to pump( hope I am right). For the oil check valve, I just buy some random 1/8 one with good review on amazon for 1/8 is that ok? And for the "vacuum" line(???) from engine to carb, can I use the regular hose or it have to be in that particular shape oem made?
As well, any advice on rust on drive shaft? (I hope that is the name, it is the peice of metal rod between engine and the hull) And for the bilge pump, are there bilge pump built in the ski or it is a good idea to have an aftermarket one?
 

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Thanks!
I have some question,(and help me verify), the fuel line is 1/4 ID(for delievery and return), and oil line is 1/8ID for pump to carb, and 1/4ID for tank to pump( hope I am right). For the oil check valve, I just buy some random 1/8 one with good review on amazon for 1/8 is that ok? And for the "vacuum" line(???) from engine to carb, can I use the regular hose or it have to be in that particular shape oem made?
As well, any advice on rust on drive shaft? (I hope that is the name, it is the peice of metal rod between engine and the hull) And for the bilge pump, are there bilge pump built in the ski or it is a good idea to have an aftermarket one?
Yes to all sizes. The oem is measured in mm. Those sizes will work but are slightly larger. I didn't have any issues. I did replace the vacum lines on my 800 with new 1/4" line. Use SS clamps on those. It did work. Are the check valves bad? I personally wouldn't go with any valve other than oem. I'd test them first with the pump. I know they may be a little pricey but you don't want to shortcut the most important part of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Yes to all sizes. The oem is measured in mm. Those sizes will work but are slightly larger. I didn't have any issues. I did replace the vacum lines on my 800 with new 1/4" line. Use SS clamps on those. It did work. Are the check valves bad? I personally wouldn't go with any valve other than oem. I'd test them first with the pump. I know they may be a little pricey but you don't want to shortcut the most important part of the engine.
The check valve all function good I think. So there is no need for me to replace them?
And as well, do you have any experience on bilge pump? Can I use the original siphon pump hose to connect my bilge pump outlet?
 

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The check valve all function good I think. So there is no need for me to replace them?
And as well, do you have any experience on bilge pump? Can I use the original siphon pump hose to connect my bilge pump outlet?
Like I said test the check valves and use oem. Leave the siphon system in place and add a separate line for a pump. I drilled out the rear right below the seat
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Here’s the pic
Hi, wonder where is the location of your bilge pump, infront of the engine?( between fuel tank and engine) Or under the shaft? I am looking for something slim that can fit under the drive shaft as I think that is the best place for it to be?
As well, when I was disassembling one of the carb, one of the screw got stuck in it(the needle side), I tried everything which I almost broke the screw head but couldn't get it out.. What should I do? Like just ignore it, or buy a reman mikuni carb to replace it? Thanks!
 

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I placed the pump next to the water box. It’s a Sahara S500. I leveled it out with some epoxy and piece of hose as a spacer. It’s automatic but I also installed a manual switch. You’ll need to engineer it yourself. Just make sure it’s level and you can remove it for cleaning. They make punches to remove screws. Is this screw inside the diaphragm housing or is it one of the cover screws? That sucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I placed the pump next to the water box. It’s a Sahara S500. I leveled it out with some epoxy and piece of hose as a spacer. It’s automatic but I also installed a manual switch. You’ll need to engineer it yourself. Just make sure it’s level and you can remove it for cleaning. They make punches to remove screws. Is this screw inside the diaphragm housing or is it one of the cover screws? That sucks.
Its a cover screw. I almost broke them. So bad, i think i will just left it that way, because from the other carburetor, it is pretty clean that side, and the spring the niddle all looks pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
So long as the oil is rated TC-W3 your fine.
Hi dave.
Just wonder, as you mentioned before the SBT have a bad quality in those SBT engine, what about their gasket and rebuild kits?
Cause I purchased 3 complete carb rebuild kit and intake gasket kit just to do the carb rebuilt work, are they still good to use, or I need to get some Gen Mikuni parts?
And also, the screw on middle cylinder is completely seald off I guess, I tired WD-40, hammer, flame and ice, and finally broke the thread..So, I just let it that way, or there are some reman-carb on the market?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
So long as the oil is rated TC-W3 your fine.
And, the motor I send over for the rebuild was complete engine but without the "flywheel cover"(dont know the exact name), are there any kind of Timing thing I should do when I get the engine back othere than just bolt it on?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I placed the pump next to the water box. It’s a Sahara S500. I leveled it out with some epoxy and piece of hose as a spacer. It’s automatic but I also installed a manual switch. You’ll need to engineer it yourself. Just make sure it’s level and you can remove it for cleaning. They make punches to remove screws. Is this screw inside the diaphragm housing or is it one of the cover screws? That sucks.
I guess i gave up on the screw. The othere side looks good and the diaphram looks good as well. I tried heat wd40 and everything but not working.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Just got another broken screw on the plate between the intake gate and riding plate....
The impeller looks fine no dent or anthing, only some surface scratches. The wear ring looks no marks.
Although the screw on the plate looks pretty new ( I think he changed the impeller maybe last year), it still broke..
Its so scary I think I will just work on the trim cable but not the jet pump...
 

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SBT motor gaskets and parts are ok. There complete motors and cranks don't have a good quality record.

If your talking carb kits you only want to use Mikuni kits NOT the cheaper after market kits.
The screws will have to be removed before rebuilding the carbs.
No timing to worry about unless you took the stator off the front cover.
 

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Agree with Dave. You need to find a way to get the screw off. Just a visual on the inside components is not a good way to tell. When I rebuild carbs I replace everything including N/S. Did you try a small pair of vice grips on the screw head? Some good penetrant spray?
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Agree with Dave. You need to find a way to get the screw off. Just a visual on the inside components is not a good way to tell. When I rebuild carbs I replace everything including N/S. Did you try a small pair of vice grips on the screw head? Some good penetrant spray?
I got another question, how to tell which spring to use without the pop off pressure gauge?
 

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Not sure how much the motor setup changed from 2000-2002. My 1200 PV stock is the 115g spring which comes with the Mikuni kit. That matched what I took out. I think I verified that with the greenhulk forum search tab.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Not sure how much the motor setup changed from 2000-2002. My 1200 PV stock is the 115g spring which comes with the Mikuni kit. That matched what I took out. I think I verified that with the greenhulk forum search tab.
what is 115g spring., Like, how to tell which spring is 115g?
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Yes to all sizes. The oem is measured in mm. Those sizes will work but are slightly larger. I didn't have any issues. I did replace the vacum lines on my 800 with new 1/4" line. Use SS clamps on those. It did work. Are the check valves bad? I personally wouldn't go with any valve other than oem. I'd test them first with the pump. I know they may be a little pricey but you don't want to shortcut the most important part of the engine.
Hi,
I read some post elsewhere, that I can use my continental 1/4 fuel hose as the vacuuum hose for the carburetor, but I noticed the temp rating onthose fuel hose is only 257F which a typical vacuum hose are rating for more than 400F. Are those engine really gonna get this level of heat?
 
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