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Tommy,
With the pump shaft, before reinstalling it. clean the splined end up good with a wire brush to get splines clean. The area just behind the splines were you see the clean ring on the shaft. That area you want to polish up with 180/200 grit emery cloth type sand paper. Then just before installing grease the splines well with Marine grease. Also put a light coat around that ring area you polished.

For the inserts, if only the one on the ride plate came loose I'd only replace the ride plate inserts with the plates. But that's me. Just clean the pump shoe ones with a tap.
To remove the epoxy try lightly with a hammer and small chisel to pop it off the hull. The insert is just a brass piece with a hex head that sits in a hex hole in the hull and the epoxy holds it in. As for cleaning once you've removed everything use an old toothbrush and acetone to clean away any grease/oil residue. Then sand the area between the insert holes and around the holes. Then sand the replacement plate and wipe with acetone. Clean everything up good. Then mix some jb weld. glue the plate down with a light coat of jb weld. Coat the bolts that hold the plate with a light coat of anti-seize and bolt the plate lightly in place. Now glue down the plate with a good coat of jb weld filling the area around the old insert and plate to seal it water tight. The light coat of anti-seize will allow the bolts to not bond to the jb weld. Don't get jb weld on the end of the bolt sticking through the plate though or you'll never get it out. You may need to use some tape to create a dam to hold the jb weld around the plate as it will run as it sets up. Warming up the hull with a lamp from below during this will set the jb weld quicker. The idea is just to hold the plate in place when you remove the bolts and be water tight.

The pump shoe inserts, if there tight I'd clean threads with a tap and and of course use anti-seize on all bolts during reassembly and call them good.

To remove those cables requires them to be removed from the front of the ski then go out the rear through the hull opening after you remove the through hull fitting. So yes they are a pain to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter #182
The epoxy beat me and beat me bad. The awkward height of the ski and the combination of leaning in hammering and scraping destroyed my back. I'm hurting and trying to take it easy. Thinking about taking a heat gun to the epoxy to loosen it up and just grabbing it with whatever I can to pull it out. Not going to take the easy way out, I am going to do this once and do it the right way, I am replacing at the minimum the ride plate "nuts" with the Island brackets. Future work depends on my back and this god-forsaken epoxy and whether or not we install the pump shoe brackets or not.

In other news, got my samples from Hydroturf on seat and mat options. The dark blue was not as navy as I was hoping, leaning towards the dark gray mats. Seats can come down the road as the OEM's are still in great shape but I did want to keep my color change in mind.
 

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Ya, a heat gun may help to loosen that shit up. It is a pain. And getting into the back end of these skis will kill the back for sure. Hope yours gets straitened out soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #184
I was doing some research on these brackets, found an older post on a different forum where someone suggested "You can go aftermarket, or order from an 04+ GPR for 1 piece per side ride plate inserts." He was assisting with the same issue, spinning inserts, but on a 2004 1200XLT. Parts diagrams show the 2004 XLT and the 2003 XLT both ran the same ride plates, intake ducts, and intake grates. Ergo these GPR brackets SHOULD fit my XLT IF the "quotee" knew what he was talking about. Any experience with using these brackets on XLT?

18567
 

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Yes, I do I've used them. A few posts back I think I suggested them but need the center to center on the bolts to check demetions to the GPr bolt pattern. The shoe I'm pretty sure is all the same. But I'm not sure about the center to center on the ride plate. Post the center to center demetions and I'll check against a GPr plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #186 (Edited)
Yes, I do I've used them. A few posts back I think I suggested them but need the center to center....
Damn it Dave! You have to yell to get me to listen!!!:cool:
In all honesty, you probably did mention them and I had no idea what you were talking about.
Center to Center Intake 10.5 cm
Center to Center Ride Plate 6.5 Inches
Measurements came from the holes in the bottom of the hull.
 

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Tommy, I'll be in my shop tomorrow and I'll check demetions and get back to you. I'm pretty sure they are the same as the xl/xlt is a stretched GPR basically.
3m 5200 could be used to bond the the nut plates down and seal at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #188 (Edited)
More research, found O'side Bills post where he just cut the brackets and JB Welded flat aluminum to get the spacing he needed. I guess I can just do the same. JetSki Store sells the brackets at $14/piece, $56-ish for all 4 brackets. I do like these OEM over the aftermarket because of the way these inserts are slightly recessed and enclosed. It will allow the hexagonal lip to sit inside of it allowing for more surface contact. The aftermarkets appear to just be flat pieces of aluminum that have been tapped exposing the nuts and bolts to corrosion and seems like the fit would be awkward and require additional 5200 or for the hexagonal lips to be sanded down.

Hexagonal "Lips"

18570
 

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Discussion Starter #189
Finally got back around to slaving away on the epoxy and inserts. Easiest way for me was to get the seat installed and lay my on it with my hands and head in the back of the hull.
To remove the inserts, I heated one insert and glob of epoxy at a time. I would get the epoxy smoking and tried to concentrate the heat to the bottom of the globs. Once heated, install a bolt in the insert and hammer bolt upwards to pop insert and hopefully majority of the epoxy up and loose. Vice grip the insert and remove the bolt from the bottom. Very few came out clean and required an additional heat gun treatment, upwards of 60-120 seconds, then scraping with flat head screwdriver.

Finally.
18569
 

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The 4 factory brackets from Babbittsonline will run you about $70 + shipping. Yes, if they'll work on the xlt they'd be the way to go. I always dry fit them. Then build up any gaps under the hex area with jb weld to get a good solid base in the bolt area. Sometimes it requires grinding down the hex area some to get a good fit. Rough up all the area between and around the hex holes real good. Then glue them in. I like jb weld as I can glue and really get good support at the bolt area and it's easier to use one thing. I jb weld them and bolt them down with from outside(not tight just snug). Be sure to lightly coat the bolt and plate hole with anti seize. Be neat with anti seize you only want it on the internal/external threads. You don't want to jb weld the bolt in. A short bolt and flat washer work best. You can go over plate and area with 3m 5200 after to glue and seal it all. The jb weld glues it down as hard base. 5200 is a hard rubbery adhesive sealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #191
Not sure how accurate the picture is...true measurement will tell more.

Bracket 1 Intake
18571


Bracket 2 Ride Plate
18572
 

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I like the looks of those. The ones I got didn't have that deep and defined hex cut. Those look like they'll lay right in over top without much fitting at all. Those look to be cast. The ones I used were stamped as I remember. I had to remove quite a bit of the top of the hex to get a good fit.
 

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Ok, Tommy,
The GPr ride plate bolt pattern is.
5,1/8" center or 130mm (see pic 1,2)

The pump shoe Is 105/106mm roughly. Having to measure laying on back under ski as I don't have one off. That's measured front to rear on pattern.
If these measurements equal yours than the GPR bolt plates will fix you up.
 

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Discussion Starter #194 (Edited)
Awesome, thanks Dave. Got the brackets ordered last night. Based on our measurements it appears the intake bracket will fit without modification, I'll need to cut the ride plate bracket to stretch to fit. I took measurements off the ride plate and shoe.

Ride plate CtC = 6 3/16" or 15.7 cm (below)

18579


Pump shoe CtC = 4 3/16" or 10.7 cm (below)

18580
 

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The ride plate bracket could either be cut and weld in a spacer, or possibly bolt in a piece to make it longer. Just needs to tie it back to one piece for added strength. But if it's glued down well it should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #196
Brackets ship next Tuesday. Bleh. I pulled the pump and everything looks good. I am going to hold of on rebuilding jet pump until I have a new Solas 11/14 impeller to replace the stock and do it all at once.

In the meantime, I might start to tackle my body work I wanted to focus on. Trying to read as much as possible before jumping in and sanding away. I have 4 "major" areas I want to tackle but I'll start with the underneath hull that you can't see for practice.

Rust? spot and small gouge towards the rear of the ski bottom of hull.
18595


Tire rub from previous owner. Did not break through the hull but did take some material off.
18596


Front of ski, has a major ding, then a bunch of smaller ones. I guess I would sand the whole area and cover it? Or treat each spot individually?
18597


Rear corner of ski, needs to be smoothed out.
18598
 

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Only one I see to be an issue is the tire rub. That will require a bit of grinding and epoxy to fix. Looks like the tire burned away some body. The BLK rubber will need to be ground out and get to clean material.

The others I think will repair quite easy with just some sanding and body filler.
When I fixed damage to front corner of GPr I ground it out repaired with west Marine repair kit. Then did the smooth out with filler.
The smaller areas you should be able to sand wipe with acetone and just hit with filler.
I used Krylon white paint matched very well.
 

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Discussion Starter #199
At this moment in time, it is just spot repair on the hull and painting the plastic body pieces. Talking me into painting everything would not be an issue as I have been mulling it over for months. I was trying to use blasting and painting the ski as a valid excuse for a bigger compressor. I'm torn.

I picked up a small kit from West Marine that others had mentioned on this and other forums but now it sounds like I am a bit undersized. Thinking I'll need the kit you linked for the tire damage. Hoping the smaller kit can knock out the small stuff.

Anyone ever used a sling and a beam mounted winch to hang the ski? Safety chains would be a must. What does this thing weigh with no fluids, motor, exhaust? 500 pounds? I do have the cherry picker and several jack stands but they would not be much taller, if at all, than my current setup. Trailer is doable maybe but would be a PITA due to it being a double with a loaded ski and the location of the repair would be on top of the trailer wheel well.

18604
 
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