Personal Water Craft Forum banner

201 - 220 of 226 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,334 Posts
Ya, I'd say 550/600 pounds is probably about it.
What you could do maybe is lift it with sling and cherry picker set it on a couple old tires then roll it over on its side. I'd certainly want to drain all the fluids beforehand. Just a thought.
A wider tire may allow it to be rolled over further before the handle bars hit the ground.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
Discussion Starter #204
Looking for a craigslist tire, something big enough for a workout so the tire can pull double duty as an inverted pwc stand and a flipping tire for the gym. The shaft tool arrived today, still waiting to pull the trigger on the Solas, best price I can find is $195 to my door.
Off topic but still ski related, I want to paint the plastic hood and console cover different colors. I have a pressure washer, thinking about grabbing a wet blast kit and some sand or soda and blasting the paint off instead of sanding these things by hand. Any imperfections I find I figure I can fill and sand before painting again. Whats the consensus about this plastic holding up to blasting?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,334 Posts
I was just thinking wide car/truck tires not a big Equipment tire. But that works if you can make it serve double duty.

The hood and cowlings are colored plastic unless they've already been painted by someone. But should be fine to soada blast. Try a small spot on the back before hand just to be sure though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
Discussion Starter #206
Brackets arrived. Finally in hand, I need to figure out how I want to cut and rejoin the brackets to fit the XLT ride plate. Excuse my elementary Microsoft Paint drawings.

Option #1 - 3/4" Flat aluminum bar (yellow) with holes for nut and bolt (orange) and some JB Weld.

18641


Option #2 - Just a piece of flat aluminum bar laid on top of the bracket and joined only by JB Weld.

18642


Leaning towards option #1 but I tend to overthink and push things over the top and make it as difficult as possible. That and I haven't used JB Weld enough to solely rely on it. HD sells an aluminum flat bar, 3/4 in. x 1/8 in. (thick) x 36 in. (long), that looks like it will work to join my brackets. Just had an idea to go with option #1 and cover the bracket in flex seal for looks...and corrosion..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,334 Posts
I think option 1 would be fine but I'd put a piece of 3/4 stock on both sides of the bracket. I'd use the jb weld to glue them down and bring it up over the top edges. Then use 3m 5200 the seal and add to the glueing/supporting affect. It's a thick very efficient white perminent caulk. Having used flex seal it won't add anything to support your work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
Discussion Starter #208
Ok, finally I'm back. I had a G37 front suspension to replace and it took all of my garage space, she's cleaned up and gone and back to the ski. I removed the impeller from the housing with the driveshaft tool to prep for pump rebuild and hopefully impeller upgrade. The bad news is it appears my the threaded end of the driveshaft is a bit mangled on the threads, do I need to replace the driveshaft or can the threads be repaired?

18689

18690
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,334 Posts
Is there a nut that goes on it? Some do some don't.
If there is buy a triangle file or a fine round side file and repair as best possible till nut fits. Just don't mess up bolt threads.

A triangle file works best. But can be hard to come by.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
Discussion Starter #210
The nut appears to be trash.

Does the DS have to be pressed out hydraulically or is there a trick? I have a pump rebuild kit but no press, feels a bit like a canoe without a paddle at this point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,334 Posts
The impeller threads should clean up with a good wire brushing. Be sure to put anti-seize on impeller and threads before installing. Also don't over tighten the impeller, just snug it good. No need for grizzly bear tight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,334 Posts
The nut appears to be trash.

Does the DS have to be pressed out hydraulically or is there a trick? I have a pump rebuild kit but no press, feels a bit like a canoe without a paddle at this point.
There you go buy 2 paddles and your done! Lol. A lot cheaper that way too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,334 Posts
Ok. Will have to buy a nut. Should have at Babbittsonline.
A press makes it easier but not nessesary if you go slow and are careful.
The shaft will come out the back. Stand it up on a couple wood blocks and lightly tap shaft end with soft face hammer or use a piece of wood to protect shaft from hammer. The inside brg you'll need a good long punch to tap it out the same way. The seals come out the front. Then just grease and reinstall fresh brgs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
Discussion Starter #214
Stand the shaft up with the pump unit elevated on wood blocks to allow room for shaft to drop. And smack away?


18691
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
Discussion Starter #216
Shaft is out. I used the edge of my workbench to support the pump, driveshaft pointed downwards (kind of important) and a large c clamp to secure unit. Rubber mallet no bueno, she wanted the heavy iron hammer with some "meaningful taps".
18692
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
Discussion Starter #217
Both bearings out. Oil seal are being very stubborn. I assume removal is reverse installation, manual has oil seals pressed from back of pump housing but they do not want to come out. I was using a large socket and extension to press downward to pop seals.
18693
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
Discussion Starter #219
The trouble jug got dropped off at a local machine shop to hopefully be repaired to original specs. If I have to go a size bigger, would need to drill the head to allow next size up. $30 and fingers crossed.
 
201 - 220 of 226 Posts
Top