[Dave in DE]

Not sure I understand all of your question.
But thereticaly you can reuse the head gasket if sprayed on both sides with copper coat gasket spray if it's the metal head gasket. But new is always best. Not worth the change in my opinion.

 

[T0MMY B0NES]

Its a new gasket from the top end kit. I had the motor back together, never turned over, before I had to tear it down again. Is it safe to use the "new" gasket even though I had already torqued the head down once? I think is my question.

 

[Dave in DE]

As stated you can spray it with copper coat. If I we're going to use again I'd coat it well with copper coat. But it's still a risk.

 

[T0MMY B0NES]

Not taking the risk, buying a new one. I wasn't sure what deemed the gasket unusable, just the torquing or actually running the motor, it makes sense just torquing the gasket "ruins" it.

 

[T0MMY B0NES]

Machine shop was able to get a helicoil in the trouble jug. New gasket set and some extra valve seals have arrived, impeller upgrade will be on hold for later in summer. Working on the ride plate brackets right now, pics to come.

 

[T0MMY B0NES]

One side down, feels strong, still need to slop some JB on it and maybe cut the screw shaft off. Fake flex seal was on sale so I grabbed a can, going to cover the brackets after cleaning up JB. Credit goes to OsideBill for the idea. Screws are m4x20mm w/ m4 nuts, flat aluminum bar 1/8" x 3/4" x 48" cut to 13.6 cm and corners sanded to fit.

 

[Dave in DE]

That looks good. Looks solid and tight. Get it glued in and you'll be fine.

 

[T0MMY B0NES]

Picked up some 5200 today to get these brackets mounted. Meantime, ass end, thread file worked great on the driveshaft end, though the nut is destroyed. Can't find a nut for less than $15 with shipping and lead time. Stopped by Fastenal and they had an M16 x 1.5 flange nut. Its about 6mm "thicker" than the OEM, picked one up anyways, perfect fit other than the extra thickness, still fits in nose cone. Brings me to my next question, jet pump lubrication. Manual calls for an EPCON lithium soap #0, others have used a marine grease, gear oil, and even a slurry mix of the two swearing it adds longevity to the bearings.

Also painted the brackets with plastidip for the hell of it. Might paint the uncut brackets to match with the left over. Taped off the bottom to keep it clean for sealing against the hull, this stuff purposely peels.

 

[T0MMY B0NES]

That looks good. Looks solid and tight. Get it glued in and you'll be fine.

I went back and "sealed" everything up with JB Weld then felt like painting it.
Pre paint -

 

[Dave in DE]

I used a valvoline Marine grease with some 80/90 lower end oil to make a slurry.

 

[T0MMY B0NES]

I think I am going to opt for the slurry mix as well. When rebuilding the pump, did you mix up a slurry to lube everything or just grease everything? Should the bearings be packed even if I use a slurry? I do not have a press so I'll be going the redneck route with a mallet and some wood. Any tips? Do it straight?

 

[T0MMY B0NES]

I was in the garage making plans for the jet pump rebuild when the bearings got me looking at the mid shaft and bearing housing. Result - Video. To me it sounds loud, a grind if you will, but the scariest part was the "play" or rattle in the shaft. Is this normal? I know the bearing housing itself is meant to flex but this feels loose, like a bad bearing housing. I don't want to be right about this.

 

[Dave in DE]

Unfortunately I think you are correct. A little play is ok as the bearings are rubber mounted. But that looks excessive. And sounds rough.

 

[T0MMY B0NES]

Options: Rebuild current bearing housing unit, replace with new housing, buy a used unit rebuild it and replace. eBay has a real good lookin housing and shaft for $35, and the kit for $40. I plan on trying to pull the housing later this afternoon for closer inspection. Ignore my use of the flange nut, I have the time to order the OEM driveshaft nut now.

Why does this list keep getting longer and longer?
Dave what else do I need to check/repair/replace while the motor and exhaust is out? Should I be looking at replacing any of the cables? I know a stiff red cable is starting to split in the rear of the ski, can they be wrapped to elongate life?

Feels like one small tiny step forward and a marathon backwards at every turn. Trying to stay positive and jealous of all the working skis for motivation.

 

[Dave in DE]

Didn't they tell you pwc is just another word for B.O.A.T. Break Out Another Thousand. Lol. The good part once your done you can ride with minimal maintenance from here on.

What does the red cable go to the pump trim? If so I'd replace. If it's split, waters been in it and it's only a matter of time before it won't work. Otherwise I would do any cables if the don't have any sign of problem. May want to get a cable lubed and lube them.

For the mid shaft id look for a good used one from ebay. But you need to make sure it's the right application. The length of the shaft is different from model to model.
Compare numbers from yours to this one.

 

[T0MMY B0NES]

Yeah I knew they were going to take some money, wasn't aware how deep the pit really is!

The red cable runs to the pump through the top hole and leads to the reverse lever, pictured below. Ordering replacement tonight.

Pulled the bearing housing and the back side seal was shot. I will try to remove the bearings and rebuild, may replace with a used unit. Will heed advice and confirm fit before purchase. Bad unit below.

For some good news, I successfully helicoiled two headbolt holes on the other cylinder. I messed up the first one by not researching enough and probably trying to rush things.

Painted all the brackets to match. Need to do some good cleaning and prep work still in the hull before slapping the 5200 on it. Should I wait until the jet pump unit is complete and reinstalled before "fitting" the ride plate and intake grate for the brackets install? Or the can the ride plate and intake grate be fitted while entire jet unit is remains removed?

 

[T0MMY B0NES]

Finally got the coupler off the shaft. I knocked the shaft through the housing with the coupler attached. Wrapped a rag around the shaft 4-5 times and cranked the vise down hard with a pipe extension. Heated the front of the coupler, didn't want to burn the rag, with basic propane bottle torch for 2-3 minutes. Smacked a tooth with the hammer once and it knocked her loose. I did ding the sleeve end of the midshaft when I knocked it through the housing but the sleeve still fit over the driveshaft and on to the splines cleanly and smoothly. I think at this point I opt for a brand new bearing housing and reuse my coupler and midshaft after cleaning them up.

 

[Dave in DE]

Sounds like you've got it under control.

 

[T0MMY B0NES]

If I had control, I wouldn't have these skis. Ha!

 

[Dave in DE]

Lmao!