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Discussion Starter · #241 ·
Where was I...waiting for parts is the worst. New WSM shift (reverse) cable arrived and has been installed. No pictures, straightforward easy install.
New bearing housing arrived though I am a bit confused on the install. Manual calls to press shaft in housing before installing the rear oil seals, the new housing already had seals pressed in. Do I just press the shaft in the housing with all the seals in place? Do I press the shaft with the two o rings on the shaft? I'll take a picture of the manual. I'm confused.
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I don't see how you could press shaft in with the seal in. You'll crush the seal. Can it be removed from the rubber collar?
Fortunately I've never had to rebuild one. Knock on wood!! Lol. I replaced one but it was complete.
 

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Discussion Starter · #243 ·
I am going to contact WSM for their recommendation when installing. If I pull the oil seals, are they even reuseable? I did order a bearing rebuild kit a long time ago that I can't return. I guess I could use those oil seals as "backups" if I damage the new ones in removal. Which brings me to my next question, the double o-rings #6 in the picture. Where do these seat?

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Discussion Starter · #244 ·
Welp, WSM tech support said they sell these all the time and have no issues with customers pushing the shaft through without removing any oil seals. I was told to use a lot of grease and to move slowly. I do not have a press so this will be interesting. He did obviously mention to block the bearing from popping out while pushing shaft in, don't just block the housing. The "good news" I have backup oil seals. Let's see what happens.
 

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Not sure on oring. But would suspect a groove in shaft for them. Where were they at when disassembly was done?

Ya, lots of grease.
 

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Discussion Starter · #246 ·
Non existent on the disassemble. According to WSM, place o-rings on "back" of shaft in a small groove. They should seat in front of the front oil seal. Working on housing as we speak.
The rain stopped for a bit earlier, so I dragged her outside and prepped the hull for some body work. Orbital sander with a 60 and 150 grit, 60 grit angled sponge, 60 grit paper knocked the job out.
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Discussion Starter · #247 ·
Good news!! To my amazement the shaft did push through the housing without damaging the seals. Measurement checks out in the window the manual requires. Coupler reinstalled and housing with shaft will be bolted up. Please excuse the dings on the shaft, that was a mistake I made and I had to clean it up, driveshaft still slides in perfectly. No harm, no foul.
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While it's out put Marine grease on the splines inside the shaft. And on the pump shaft when you assemble pump later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #249 ·
You got it dude! Question, I believe housing was shipped "dry". I did use some grease to install but not near enough like packing a bearing. I want to utilize the grease fitting on the housing. Stupid question, when is it full? Manual does not provide specific amounts and I have never used a grease gun.
 

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If you have a newer style single hand squeeze type gun put 6 to 8 slow pumps with one hand while turning shaft with the other. Watch the seal while you do this. If you see signs of grease or bulging in seal quit. You may need to go more then 8, just go slow. You may feel it turn harder as it fills. This is the grease filling the brg. Stop at that point.
Then just hit it with a couple pumps every spring as you ready for season. In the spring, I get gun hooked up start the motor. give a couple slow pumps and shut down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #251 ·
Picked up a squeeze grease gun. Bought a new garage toy, had to get my new air tank plumbed up and some slight repairs, got it from a liquidator, had fallen over in the warehouse. New pressure switch and some washers under the air pump straightened the fly wheel, runs like a top. Plumbing a water trap out of 1/2 copper.
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I have 2 '03 XLT800's, one just blew itself apart (oil injection wasn't working on PTO cylinder rod bearings), second is now being converted to premix. I'm being inspired by this thread to dig in and repair the blown motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #255 ·
Get at it man! Though this thread is dedicated to keeping the variable oil injection pump and upgrading the system to minimize failure typically cause by oil line failure. Here to help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #256 ·
Finally got the tank plumbed up like I want it. Besides a bad regulator I'm ready to media blast the engine and prep for paint. I still need to find a good tire to use as my ass-end support when I hang the ski from the cherry picker. Plumbed in 4 drop valves to help with moisture, muffler installed on intake to help with high pitch decibels, and I ran 3 lines. One for paint and blasting that has air filter and dryer, second line will have air filter and lubricator for air tools, and the third is plain tank air. I need to wrap the red whip hose with some black electrical tape.
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Discussion Starter · #257 ·
Purple powered the ski today for bodywork prep. Tire idea worked great at the ass end and cherry picker at the front. I was able to clean up the tire burn from previous post with pressure washer, still need to hit with some sanding.
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I'm guessing you won't be on the water this year! LOL!. Looks good.
Are you painting it white again or changing colors?
 

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Discussion Starter · #259 ·
Ha, I'm trying! I tried working on the 2nd ski just to get her on the water but it was problem after problem. Starter went bad when I was checking compression, went to replace the starter and while pulling exhaust it was clear the front motor mounts are broke. Thinking the broken motor mounts led to the shaft spin we encountered on the water. Back to the restoration it might as well be called.
 

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Discussion Starter · #260 ·
Today's plan is to keep the hull white and just paint the plastic body parts. I may want to paint it down the road if/when I refinish bottom of the hull.
 
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