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At 75 and 85 for compression. I'm surprised it ran at all. That's not all do to the reeds but they contributed to it.
Have you looked at the pump on the other ski yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
It was a brand new gauge, I may not have held the throttle wide open when testing though. If I get some spare time tonight, I'll compression check the other ski just for another set of numbers. I'll do it the way I did the first ski and I will test with the throttle wide open.

My garage is too small for both ski's so unfortunately it is one ski at a time. The second ski is on the trailer outside. I was planning on tearing it down regardless so both ski's are identical in service requirements and timeline.

I hope to have requested pictures to you this evening. Do I need to separate the cylinders from the crankcase for best view? I guess they will need to be removed at some point even if I just have them honed.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Carbs? CARBS!!!

Have you ever rebuilt a carb?
For your carbs get MIKUNI kits ONLY. Go one at a time. Carb 1 and carb 2 are different. So one at a time mark and then slowly turn in both your high and low screws. Record how many turns on each. It may be 1/2, or 5/8 of a turn. Or could be 1.5. I mark the carb body on the edge of the screw hole with a small sharp chisel and very lite tap of hammer. Then disassemble with camera Pics for reference. And let soak in the carb cleaner.(a gallon can pre purchased from auto parts store) I know Napa carries carb cleaner in cans. I'm sure most the others do to. Soak it over night works best agitation once in a while helps but not to hard. Then rinse with hose and blow dry with air if you have it. Then use carb cleaner spray to spray through every office you see. Then follow the drilled return mod under "how to's" and clean again with spray cleaner and reassemble. Reuse your old needle/seat spring.
Items needed:
2) mikuni kits
2) 1.2mm needle and seat
1) Gallon can of carb cleaner
2 or 3 cans of spray carb cleaner
1) 87.5 mikuni main jet for mod.
1) 5mm tap for mod. "Local hardware"
Mikuni kits and jet from: watcon.com for kits and needle and seat and jet.
Sbt for excelerator pump diaphragm, needle and seat, kits. "No jets"
Short answer, No. I did just rebuild a carb on a Ryobi blower but no where near as complicated as this set. I picked up two Mikuni carb kits from Bay Area Powersports. I had to return the aftermarket set to them and just exchanged for this SET that includes genuine Mikuni kits, needles and seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I'm not dead, yet, had some other things tie me up for a moment but I am back on the project(s)! Picked up some liquids today for cleaning up the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Cylinders and Power Valves

Finally got some work in and was able to break down the cylinders and power valves. It appears the installed power valves have already been updated. I have all screws undone, do the valves lift up out of the slot to the cylinder? I cannot get mine to budge. I have attached cylinder pictures to determine if I am sleeved or not. Thanks for the help.
 

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Yes both jugs are sleeved.
If you've removed the screw that holds the power valve bushing in then you may have to lightly pry up on the valve to pop it loose. Cyl walls don't appear to bad may be able to hone and put in new pistons/rings.
 

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I marked the tell tails of being sleeved in red on the left cyl in pic. Note the parting line just in from edge.
Just for info. look at the sides on your connecting rods. See if they says "SBT" on it? Someones been in this motor before. No biggy just need to make sure all is there and correct as you go. unlike an original that you know everything is as it should be.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
This is where I am a bit confused. So the factory nikasil coating has been removed (bored) and sleeves have been installed due to damage to the cylinder walls that could not be repaired. How many times can a sleeve be bored and honed? Do I need to return my +1mm kit and get a standard bore kit or can the sleeves be bored out to accommodate the larger pistons?

You are correct Dave, can confirm rods say SBT.
 

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Ok. That's what I suspected. You have Basically 2 options from here.
1) just hone each cyl and order correct size pistons for it. (Check piston tops for STD or oversize) provided cyl hone out with no scars. Cheapest route.
2) order a top end exchange kit with new jugs and pistons to match. Plus comes with all necessary gaskets to reassemble. Either from sbt or wsm. Wsm preferred. Wsm you can pick from various piston manufacturers.
Actually there is a 3rd. Order a new motor from "pwcengines" it's no secret I'm not a fan of sbt engines and that's what you have there. There cyl kits aren't bad and parts ok. Just can be poor quality in there engines.
At some point someone blew the motor and replaced with sbt.
 

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Just realized you already have 1mm over kit. Take the jugs to local cycle shop and have them evaluate jugs and bore if possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Jugs = Cylinders or Jugs = Sleeves?

Should I remove the sleeves from cylinders? I read on a forum that you literally bake the cylinders and the sleeves "fall out".

I am working on pulling the flywheel and the PTO, I unfortunately did not pull before removing cylinders like a dumb dumb.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
This flywheel is absolutely insane. I have worked on engines before, this is easily by far the toughest yet. I have PB Blasted, I have heat gunned, I have hammered, dead-blowed, and I cannot get it to pop loose. I currently have the puller on the flywheel with pressure and hitting it with PB every few minutes. I don't have any dry ice but I do have 2 cans of air duster I can turn upside down to try and freeze if that might work.
 

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Jugs=cyl.
Don't try to remove sleeves.
Flywheel can be a bitch. with tension on the puller hit the puller center shaft bolt with ball-peen hammer. Lightly don't want to drive crank out the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I'll have to look around Nashville for a reputable shop. Found a Craigslist guy, Big John, up in Louisville, KY about 2 hours away that appears he knows what he is doing and is affordable. Anyone know of a decent engine shop around Nashville?

I have had tension on it going on 2 hours with PB Blast every 20 min. Unfortunately I have not been tapping lightly. I was hitting this thing so hard the engine was scooting across the workbench. I'll go back to tapping and tightening, we'll see how it goes tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
Crankshaft Hell

I am at a loss right now. I have tried every trick I could find on the forum. I have put a ton of pressure on the flywheel and nothing budges. I was convinced I missed a bolt or washer and followed the parts diagram to no avail. I tried heating with a heat gun for several minutes and hitting it with ice water. I had the puller tight on it all night last night. I now have 3 more problems, I pulled one of the 3 bolts out of the flywheel and this thing had at least 5-6 turns on it. I have now stripped the center bolt tip on the end of the crankshaft, hopefully not f$#king it up too much and finally I bent the bolt I was using in the flywheel shaft. Would a shop popoff the flywheel for me? I hit it with my Kobalt cordless impact and got nothing.
 

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