I finally got the cylinders removed and the case separated though the flywheel and PTO are still connected to crankshaft. I was hoping it would "lift" out of the bottom but it has not. I am in the process of locating a machine shop that can bore and hone my sleeved cylinders to +1mm and clean the jugs up as will as have the crankcase cleaned, I am told I need to look for a shop that has vapor degreaser. I have a pressure washer and a cherry pick I could hang it from, just not sure the neighbors would be ok with me spraying carb cleaner and degreaser down the street.
Crankshaft pooped loose from lower case when I was messing with PTO. Case has been pressure washed with plain water, blown dry with air compressor, rubbed down with oil and bagged. Now I am looking for someone local to bore cylinders if not, making the drive to Louisville to Big John.
I have called several around Nashville and no one wants to work on an older 2 cycle. Driving up to Louisville will be my excuse to enjoy some Skyline Chili, headed up tomorrow morning and he will perform work while I eat lunch.
I was prepping all the parts when I noticed one of the older pistons had damage on it, didn't find any metal in the case so I guess it blew it out the exhaust.
I was getting ready to dive into my carbs when I opened my Berryman Chemdip can and found that it was extremely dark brown with what appears to be metal shavings, can someone confirm this is normal? I feel like someone used it and returned it to the store and I was lucky enough to buy it.
Parts dip looks used to me, but just my opinion. No need to dip the carbs. Just clean outside with carb or brake cleaner, open them up, spray clean with carb or brake cleaner, blow dry, assemble, check pop off, done.
Ya, that chem dip is used. The color is fairly clear. Fluid level should be about an inch down from top. There should also be a part basket in the can and be clean on the bottom. That's how my 2 cans were when I got them.
As Rods said you don't have to dip. I dip mine and get them clean inside and out. Then after full assembly I tape off hose connections and openings and repaint.
Put marine grease on the high low adjusting screws threads and spring. Keeps them from seizing in place from corrosion.
Took the used dip back to AZ, they wouldn't allow a refund so I was fine with an exchange, though the replacement is just as dark just without the metal shavings, oh well.
Drove up to Louisville on Saturday and met with Big John at his house. He has a machine shop in his garage and he was nice enough to bore and hone both jugs while I waited and tried to stay out of his way. $40 for each cylinder and from what I can tell does a great job. He did give me permission to post his contact info if that is allowed. While visiting Louisville I had to stop for some Skyline Chili!
Piston picture shows the +1mm piston fitting in the newly bored cylinders. I brought my PIA of a crankshaft up and BJ was nice enough to help me out. He had to break out the acetylene torch on the flywheel and PTO as they were both heavily coated with what appeared to be loctite. FINALLY!
Something just came to mind looking at your pics. And that is with oversized bore you may need to take a bit off the end of your power valves.
The bores look good. Nice crosshatch pattern. Don't see any boring marks.
All good Dave! You are 100% correct. The WSM overbore kit came with a reminder that I would need to take off .005 off the powervalves to avoid snagging the piston rings or piston. Big John also "rounded" all of the sharp edges on the ports in the cylinder sleeve. We were going to reuse the old powervalves but found one valve was pretty nicked up from what I assume was part of the old piston making it's way out.
Also on topic of the overbore, will this affect carb settings or jets?
Carbs are taking a dip today for around an hour now that I have them separated and all the lines removed, will power rinse and blow dry afterwards.
Big John does not like to text, call him. He will bore and hone cylinders for $40. If you drive up to his house he will perform the work while you wait and might even make you help. He can also re-sleeve if needed. Here is a link to his Craigslist ad if needed.
Rebuilding the carbs today but I'll have to wait on my Oetiker kit to come in. Also going to replace all of the oil lines with tygon tubing. I noticed 3 different sized lines when tearing down the carbs. What size ID is required for replacing all of the oil lines?
Reading up on these carbs, while I have them out, should I perform OsideBill's mods while I have the carbs out? The pressure return mod and the accelerator delete mod? I also have a primer kit to install.