Personal Water Craft Forum banner

161 - 180 of 224 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,324 Posts
Your helicoil kit should have come with proper drill and tap for the insert. That being said, A good machine shop may be able to use a sleeved type thicker insert to salvage this hole if they can't get a helicoil in it. But this may not be cost effective. Would have to get estimate and compare against top end kit with cylinders.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter #164
Just a little update. Decided to tear into the hull, might paint it, definitely painting the cover and hood. Pads and glue removed. Pictured are my weapons of choice. PB Blaster worked the best with proof. Not pictured, small "crow" bar used to scrape pads off.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter #165
Pulled the rub rails and gunwales today, prepping for some body work, going to use the West Marin Kit to clean up the ski in a couple of spots, going with the big one to have extra for the second ski whenever I get around to it. Took the nose off first, its is bolted on with 10mm nuts. Lucky enough the inner rails slid right out on both sides. Pulled all the lag screws, I believe these were T10 (star). Rear corners needed to be drilled out at they were pop riveted in. Once both rear corners were pulled, inner rear rail slid right out. Rear rail was pop riveted under the inner rail. Debating whether to replace rivets or use some stainless nuts and bolts. All of my rails were glued down as well, used the heat gun to loosen everything up.

I have been trying to find info on possibly painting the rails while I have them pulled and separated, maybe even a two tone with the inner rail being painted a different color. Appears most people have decent results with a paint geared to plastic/vinyl, like a Krypton. Does anyone manufacture colored aftermarket rails?

18496

18497

18498

18499

18500
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter #168
Eraser wheel came in and that thing worked like a charm. I would say I used 75% of the wheel removing the leftover goo from the rub rails all the way around the ski.
18510
18511
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter #169
Nicer weather, quarantine, and waverunner stimulus check has helped get things moving along again. I purchased a jet pump rebuild kit to replace the bearings and I also need to check health of the impeller and clearance. Lo and behold previous owners sealed up the intake with a caulk/sealant to which I assume is to help with the cavitation, similar to the pump seal kit. I have removed the intake grate and removed the 4 bolts from the duct but it will not drop. I don't want to rip it out if there is a chance of damaging the hull. I was thinking about possibly heating up the sealant either with a heat gun or benzo torch if needed. Would pulling it out without heat damage the hull?
18512
18513
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter #170
I found this piece of info from the installation instructions for the ump seal kit from Riva. I guess I just need to get the hobby knife out and trim around everything to free up the silicone.

"Remove the four OE 8 X 35mm bolts from the pump inlet shoe and the two OE 6 X 30mm bolts from the front of the intake grate. Carefully grab intake grate just in front of the pump inlet shoe and pull down. NOTE: If you have previously siliconed your OE pump inlet shoe you will need to carefully cut away the silicone between the pump inlet shoe and hull. It may be necessary to pry the rear / sides of the pump inlet shoe while pulling down on the intake grate. Be careful not to damage or remove the OE foam gasket on the rear of the pump inlet shoe."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter #171
No heat used, took a hobby knife with a 2 inch blade and cut around the intake duct and pulled it right out. The bad news is, one of the head snapped that holds the grate to the duct and I have a transom plate bolt spinning, not loose but not extracting, it feels like the "nut" or the threaded housing in the hull has come loose and is just spinning with the bolt, not sure how to tackle this right now. The impeller has some dings on it, appears to be acceptable shape, 0.6mm feeler gauge would not fit per manual.

18514
18515
18516
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,324 Posts
Tommy,
Those erasers work wonders.
It probably would be easier to get another shoe off eBay as opposed to trying to remove the broken bolt. There pretty common. Impeller looks ok but for about 2 bills a solas Concord from Impros would wake it up a bit. The wear ring look real good. Be careful with the pump bolts, soak them well for a couple days with pb blaster before trying to remove.
The ride plate bolt turning is typical. The inserts on the hull floor inside twist loose pretty easy. Usually you can grab lightly with wise grips and remove bolt. sometimes a touch of heat helps also. You can also drill small hole on the end inside and fill with pb blaster. I've had good luck cleaning inserts with acetone and regluing with jb weld. The newer GPr's used a strait one piece bar for both inserts on each side. Not sure if they would fit bolt pattern on xlt though. Would need center to center on bolt pattern to tell you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter #173
That eraser was champ and I bought a cheap one off of Amazon for $10, well worth the money, will use and recommend again!
I may mess with the snapped bolt on the shoe for about 20 minutes but that's about it. You are correct eBay has them for about $25.
Good deal on the impeller, a new Solas is on the list but not a priority right now. With the ease of replacing the intake, ride plate, and impeller, they are definitely on the upgrade mod list. What pitch would be a good recommendation for my XLT800 +1mm bore?
+1 for the pump bolts, I will definetely give them a PB bath before tackling.
I found my trouble bolt, I removed 3 of 4, the stuck bolt is front right, vice grips are just spinning loose, taking a break right now. I did find these Island Racing brackets (halfway down), anyone used these or even fashioned your own? I assume installing these, I have to pull exhaust to get all the "goop", then these brackets lay flat on either side of the plates and the bolts screw into the brackets. I think this is what you were referencing now that I think about it.
Back to your point, drill a hole in the top of the insert from inside the hull and fill it with PB to hopefully loosen it up, clean the insert, and JB Weld into place (and save the $120 from brackets).
18517
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter #174
Found a 10 year old post on PWCToday where the "experts" were recommending the Solas YF-CD 11/14 for the XLT800. Put this down on my mid wish list, like the idea of getting a hook up kit, includes impeller, intake grate, and ride plate for about $500.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter #175
Vice grips worked once I was able to get them tight enough, ride plate is off and 5 pump bolts will be soaking in PB overnight for hopeful removal tomorrow. The speed sensor screws in the ride plate spun as well, all four corners of the plastic sensor were cracked and broken but removed.
18518
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,324 Posts
Yes that set of plates replaces the 4 inserts that hold the ride plate. The exhaust has to be removed from the rear of the ski. Then you remove the epoxy and inserts. Then you have to fit and glue down the new plates with jb weld or another good epoxy.
To reattach your existing insert you'll need to remove the epoxy holding it. Clean everything with acetone really good. Then glue it in with jb weld. I've had good luck doing this. But it still can come loose. Just a poor design. You'll have to clean the threads in the insert with a tap and bolt threads also. Then assemble with anti seize on your bolts NOT locktite.
I replaced my speed sensor as it was the same way. Wasn't God awfull expensive as I remember. Looked up the part number and searched it on eBay found plenty used and new. Will need a second set of hands though to put the new through hull fitting in. Then you just run the cable up to the front and reconnect.
If your just rebuilding the pump brgs just remove the 4 bolts that hold the outer cone. This will leave the wear ring in the ski and only remove the stator/brg housing of the pump with the impeller and shaft. Just another option. But still soak all bolts well with penetrating oil. I had to replace the entire transom on one of my GPr's because the bolts broke off due to salt water corrosion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter #177
Sooooo......what you're saying is "Shut up and remove the exhaust!" :cool:

Now I have to decide to spend $120 on the brackets or start yanking inserts cleaning, re-tap, and JB weld them in. I don't guess the dimensions of the bracket are public, seems like it could be pretty easy to fashion your own brackets maybe not out of aluminum to save some money. I'm not too worried about a couple ounces here and there.

Is there any benefit to pulling the pump assembly? I was following the manual, it did not provide steps for just dropping the housing. I may just the entire assembly and clean everything up real good and make sure reverse gate and fittings are all in good shape and greased up.

Looks like speed sensors are only $25 on ebay, is this "worth" replacing, how accurate is the sensor?

Should be heading downstairs in a few to yank the exhaust and PB Blast the pump bolts again.

Thanks again Dave. Did you finish up your traction mat project?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter #178
Exhaust came out nice an easy, water trap is full of water, easiest way to empty?
Pump bolts loosened right up, no trouble on any of the 5 bolts. Now for the stupid question, I see "pry" spots on the pump housing, I assume it'll take some elbow grease to pop her loose, carefully. Is the shaft going to slide out or do I need to disconnect something in the housing (red rectangle)? I don't want to pop the pump loose and put stress on the impeller shaft if I need to disconnect something. Can you refer to it as a driveshaft? watershaft? floatshaft? Moving on.

18519
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,324 Posts
LMAO, ya get off your butt and pull the exhaust!!!
If your going to pull all the inserts go with the brackets. You could probably fabricate them but they need to be closed holes so they can't leak water in through the bolt hole.
the speed sensors are not real accurate. But worth replacing to me anyway.
There's no way to drain all the water from the water box. It's baffled in a way that just holds it inside.
Once you've removed the bolts from either separation spot on the pump it should slide out with minor prying at the pry points. BUT, sometimes the shaft end gets rusted into the midshaft. But we'll only go there if need be. Best thing to use is a pair of lrg cold chisels or hard wood wedges to separate the pump parts. Go easy, a little at a time on each side. Don't want to break the ears off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Discussion Starter #180
Fine! Pulled the pump loose, had to bust out the rubber mallet to loosen it up but the pump slid out, shaft end looks healthy, just dirty.
18529
18530
18531


Now I have to make a decision on where to go from here. The back of the ski is pretty tight for space, what is the best way to remove the epoxy? How "clean" does the area need to be? The manufacturer of the brackets fails to list specific information regarding installation on the web site. I picture the brackets laying flat against the hull on the inside of the ski. Don't think I am getting an angle grinder in there, maybe a cordless dremmel, to clean it up.
18532


The ride place holes appear to be the easiest to get to, the grate/duct holes are underneath all of the linkage for the steering and what not. Has anyone removed epoxy and installed brackets without removing the linkages? Is it rather straight forward to pull them through?

18533
 
161 - 180 of 224 Posts
Top