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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

I'm new to the world of owning a PWC. However i do have a good mechanical background with different DIY projects so im not afraid of a little work :tango_face_grin: . Anyways, I have a 2005 Honda Aquatrax R-12x that has an issue. Around 45-50 MPH, it starts to buck and porpoise uncontrollably. There are a few things that i am pointing fingers at, but haven't been able to come upon a solution with some google research. Culprit #1: The owner before me somehow broke the intake grate. Half of it is missing. I only have the rear part with the scoop that is bolted to the bottom of the ski. All of the bars are missing from the grate, but i ground them down to where it was smooth. Culprit #2: The underneath of the ski is in pretty rough shape. There is some exposed fiber-glass that may need some attention (Photos will be posted when I get home and can grab them). Based upon you guys's experience, what would I need to be focusing on right now?

Thanks!
 

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I guess i will not be posting photos since it is against the forum rules. Is there another way i can show what exactly we're up against?
Thanks
 

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Okay, so i just discovered that i CAN post photos. Here they are:

In regards to the hull damage, is this bad enough to where it needs to be addressed before i run it again? Or could i run it through the season and repair it over the winter with a new gel coat?
 

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That grate can make a difference, so I would find another one. I would get some long strand bondo glass and do something with the large one. Shouldn't take much to fill it, then prime and paint with some black rustoleum, and do a quick spray to any other small chip areas that are into the substraight. If it keeps getting wet, eventually the layers of glass will start delaminating from each other.
 

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That grate can make a difference, so I would find another one. I would get some long strand bondo glass and do something with the large one. Shouldn't take much to fill it, then prime and paint with some black rustoleum, and do a quick spray to any other small chip areas that are into the substraight. If it keeps getting wet, eventually the layers of glass will start delaminating from each other.
Okay, that makes sense. I do believe the hull has a gel coating. Is that something that will need to be applied after the bondo and primer? Or will the Bondo and primer be okay as is?
 

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Originally the hull was prob. gel coat, but it's been painted, with what is anyone's guess, but prob not gel coat. just make sure it's preped good so the primmer and paint will stick. No finer than a 400 grit paper for final sand, and change it frequently. When sanding is done, hit it real quick with a fresh piece..
 

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Originally the hull was prob. gel coat, but it's been painted, with what is anyone's guess, but prob not gel coat. just make sure it's preped good so the primmer and paint will stick. No finer than a 400 grit paper for final sand, and change it frequently. When sanding is done, hit it real quick with a fresh piece..
Sounds like a plan. Also, what would be your recommendation for a new intake grate? I'm looking for good hookup out of the hole and good cornering. Not too concerned with top speed all to much. (Within reason, I would still like to be able to hit around 55 or better)
 

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Looks like porpoising is a issue with it. There have been folks to mod the ride plate to help, and at one time there were a couple of manufactures for aftermarket ride plates. Looks like Jet Dynamics and R&D. May have been others, but not seeing any aftermarket ones.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/04C19-Honda-Aquatrax-R-12X-2005-Intake-Grate-47511-HW3-670/362573578454?epid=1240041194&hash=item546b11c0d6:g:lxcAAOSwESdcfrrV

I would also get a Solas impeller for it HA-CD-17/29. Between that and the grate, you should see a big difference in hook up. If you have the tools, I would do a little more work to that grate like knife edge the leading edges, and the scoop and do a little polishing.Would be nice if the pump shoe was out so you could do any ness. blending, polishing, and de burring through the pump.
You will also have to source the 2 front grate bolts.
I'm also seeing that you can shim the rear bolts of the plate with a thin washer to drop it some, just be careful tightening the bolts as all 4 locations will now lose a little contact area. This is what some folks do with Kawi's zxi's which porpoise badly at speed.
 

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Makes more sense. I just finished prep sanding the bottom of the hull last night. Waiting on Bondo to arrive. Is there any kind of polish you would recommend using after i finish with the paint and primer? Would regular marine wax do?
 

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No, just for waxing. The wax will create a seal and not allow the paint to fully harden. The Bondo glass will be cured to a working hardness in about 15min. Should be hard enough to prim in a couple of hours. Give the primer at least 4 hours before painting, and a few days to let the paint set up hard before putting it in the water.
 

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After a few long nights and many runs to Lowe's, here is the finished product. Also, i have a new grate arriving on Monday. I bought some generic clear silicone for sealing it up. How generously should i apply it? Are you supposed to seal around the entire grate all the way to where the edge meets the bottom of the hull? Whats your recommendation?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Will do. I've been doing some extensive reading on "pump over-stuffing". I believe this is what is happening in my case. Hopefully the grate will fix that issue. It'll be a while before i can water test the machine, but I'll let everyone know the results in case it may of any help to them if they're having the same issue.

Thanks again for your help rodsatheart
 

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Well, after a good long weekend of testing, here is what i found: The first trip on the ski with the new grate, it would cavitate BADLY out of the hole. However, the more i used it, the better it got (I'm assuming silicone got where it shouldn't have). It is virtually non-existent now. As far as the hull repair goes... almost all of the paint came off of the bottom. I believe it was my prep process that caused this though (Sanded the primer with too fine sandpaper). The Bondo hull repair is still nice and solid, just doesn't look pretty. Other than that, no problems at WOT. Hit 62 no problem. Thanks for all of your help! Hopefully this thread will help someone else with a similar issue.
 
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