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  1. You should be good on the 800. My 01 800 at about 125hrs and the guy I bought it from kept running it on a broken oil line till it wouldn't run because of no compression. It had aluminum from Piston all over in chunks and flakes. I cleaned the crank and base out by filling the base full with fuel and turning it over by hand and then sucking out the fuel when all the aluminum was stired up. I did this till it was clean several times. The rod clearance was good so I went for it. Technically I should have replaced it. It's running strong and has been for 4 yrs now. My 02 I bought with 23hrs 3yrs back. it's as pristine as the day it came off the showroom. It has about 70hrs now. I always get complements wherever I ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Finally got the crankshaft back from Erickson's Looks to be nicely done. New rods, bearings all the way around.

The Crank seals did not come on the crank, I had to assemble the seals and flywheel and drive coupler, but not a big deal. The three seals would only go on one way. hopefully.

Spent a few hours assembling the cases and stator cover.

Last week I took apart the reed cages and cleaned the reeds and cages. The reeds weren't torn or broken and felt 'normal' to a rookie.

But the middle cage set has the smallest gap at the end of the reed on two petals. less than 1/16" but light will shine through. Do these need replaced? is that gap a big deal affecting starting and throttle response?

crank.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #24
yeah, I saw those specs in the manual. Just didn't know how close to them I had to be to justify the $120 for reeds. I'll break down and buy them. no short cuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
So finally finished assembly, all went smoothly,

If you'd have a minute for a couple quick quesitons, please and thank you,

First off, I redid the GP800r, took apart and did the gasoline turkey baster thing. Maybe 8-10 times. Seems to have done the trick. I could definitely see the fine flakes in the fuel as it was a sunny day. Spray a gasket and all is well.

The XLT1200 fired right up after a tsp of fuel in each plug hole.

Still having the beeping from the console telling me low fuel and low oil. Pushing the mode button silences the beeping. I checked all electrical connections while apart, and checked ohm specs on oil sensing module they're in bounds. Any ideas? It's not critical it works, but still annoying.

Lastly, this is the most concerning,

Started it again today just to make sure it wasn't a fluke. started and ran, then made a sound like a bolt got munched or sheared off. the kind of sound that you know isn't good.

Possible a ring broke got hung up and broke? possible a power valve broke? possible just a noise? It almost sounded like it was from the impeller, like a stick was stuck in it and got sheared off.
Anyhow, the machine still ran normally, no rattling like something was stuck in a cylinder or banging around inside the engine. I've got the idle set low so I can hear.

Haven't checked compression. tomorrow.

Final question, greasing the zirc fittings going to the impeller bearing.. How may pumps? how frequently? Can it be over-greased?

Hope all is well in everyone's world.

Tom
 

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For the alarm, try unplugging each sending unit one at a time and see if it goes away. Then maybe you'll figure witch unit it is. Then we can work that out or leave unplugged.

For the noise. You better look it over good. If you have a bore scope that goes on you phone use it to look at cyl walls. If you don't you may want to. Not very expressive. Pic is one I have. Works well.

For greasing mid shaft, I like to get grease gun hooked up. Start ski put in 2 or 3 easy pumps and shut down. Yes they can be over greased. I grease at beginning of each season. With a top shelf Marine grease.
 

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