Personal Water Craft Forum banner
1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, newbie to jet skis since last year (we have a pair), winterized them properly and for some reason my head was in the clouds when I brought them out of winter mode, wanted to make sure they ran in the drive before hitting the water using the hose method. So, I completely forgot the importance of starting the machine before starting the water. The 1st machine, no issues, it started as expected. But the second machine, just made a clunk sound as the starter attempted to start, but zero rotation, just a hard engagement. Replaced the battery, same deal, removed the starter, tested it on the bench with a battery, and did not turn, just arch'd, so replaced the starter after testing the new one on the bench. To my surprise, the engine barley turned over, did not get up to any speed, just short grunts. Removed the plugs, tried turning it over again, and again barely turned over, but enough to shoot some water out of the 1st cylinder. Used a syringe to suck water out of the 1st cylinder to the point that I could not get anymore, tried cranking again, but still getting short bursts only and that with all the plugs out.

Sorry for the long story, but I am stuck now, I fear something is bent, but not sure of how that could happen when the motor never started, just starter motor force which never made it up to full crank speed. Or perhaps the antifreeze got into the cylinder? Oil was checked and good, no water in the oil.

Not sure how the starter engages to the flywheel yet, Bendix issue?
Is there a way to turn the motor without the starter, manually turn it somehow?
Really hoping to be able to fix this without pulling the motor...

Thanks, any help will be greatly appreciated
Cheers
Bill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
No replies on this (only gave it 14 hours lol), but I was able to figure it out after more searching and reading between 2 possible fixes that do not require the removal of the engine or heads. (rusted cylinder and/or rusted impeller shaft/jet pump)

Basically shot cylinders with WD40 (some used PB Blaster, but after seeing a study of several of these lubricants, WD40 came out ahead, not to mention that I already have WD40 in my garage), waited an hour, cranked the motor with some improvement and repeated until the engine turned over smoothly with the plugs out. Installed plugs, but didn't get enough turnover, removed them one last time to find some remaining water in the 1st cylinder. With the remaining water removed, the engine turned over as expected with plugs in and ran!

Lesson learned, it is critical to "FOG" your engine during the winterization process since 1 or 2 of your cylinders can be exposed to the atmosphere humidity every time the engine stops, which includes all winter... for me, very important since I store my machines outside, beside my house. Also, to NEVER start the water 1st, before starting the engine due to the fact that water runs though the exhaust, and into your cylinders without the engine running. I knew the 2nd part, just forgot the importance of it this years...

Hope this helps someone... to not remove the engine or heads so quickly as I read several issues stating they have the same problem, and not so many replies on the fixes.

Cheers
Bill
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top