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Discussion Starter #1
HI gang. Just picked up a 95 SLX 780 and thought all I had to do was put in a new battery. I may have been a little hopeful? I'm pretty handy and I'm going through the electrical with the help of the '92 - '98 PWC service manual I found online. I have a couple of questions that will of course lead to more questions lol.

- Will the jetski crank and run without the MDF connected? It also seems the fuse is missing on the terminal board and they ran power directly to the MDF. I'm looking at getting an inline fuse holder as the mounts are gone on one side on the board.
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- Does the MDF power up when you pull up on the kill switch? I also took apart the left handlebar switch controller (the one that says "on" and "mode"that houses the kill switch on the handle bar thinking that the kill switch would always be in the "closed" position thus allowing it to crank?
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- When I try to fire it up, the only thing I hear is a faint click from what I believe is the solenoid. There is also an extra wire (yellow/black) that is looped into itself. Not sure where this wire is supposed to go as I don't see it on the diagram either.
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- I've also checked resistance across the stator coils and found that "red/white" to "green/red" reads as open (no ohms). I'll be disconnecting these next and rechecking them as what I did was push the leads through the rubber seal from the back of the wire.

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- I could also really use a good look at a working terminal board as mine looks like this and between the manual and a couple of Youtube vid's, this is what I came up with mine. As you can see a lot of the color designations are missing.
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- How hard is it to remove the exhaust manifold to get to the starter to be sure it's connected properly or is there a better way to trouble shoot this?

Thanks in advance for all of this. I know it's a lot.
 

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Hi, i am tigershark guy but i have a 96 slx780 i adopted so i will try and help. I will try and split my electric box for pics for you of both halves today(fri) or this weekend. Yell at me in capital letters if i forget! Lol first be patient cause your taking over a electric box that has dry terminals with surface rust it looks like. Those homemade connections with no dielectric grease makes me think box got infiltrated with water. Hearing a click is selonoid and the starter is tucked under exhaust manifold.i have pickedup starters off ebay new for $35 and had goodluck with them.
 

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See if this helps,didn’t get a pic of mine yet. These are pics of a box a guy on ebay is selling. He’s asking 150.00 obo i think. If no help then i could split mine and take pics if needbe. 9A39F983-39AB-4A98-A832-C37582FEA794.png DB07E5BF-34A0-46F6-9728-0E9C2210C2B2.png 9A39F983-39AB-4A98-A832-C37582FEA794.png
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here's an update on this.

  • I bought a new solenoid and replaced it. Definitely making a solid "click" now. The other one was way to faint where you had to put your ear against it. Definitely bad.
  • I also just got a new starter in today, as I tried running power directly to the old starter and got nothing. I reached my hand around the exhaust manifold and noticed that the battery terminal post was stupid loose. The fun part is going to be taking it out. Looks like I'm going to have to remove the manifold. In order to do that it looks like i'm going to have to remove the gas tank up front to make room to slide the manifold forward to get to the starter. Damn, this is like working on a Honda but worse.
  • I followed the diagram from the operators manual and rewired my box. Yea, I also cleaned the piss out of it too. It's missing the seal. Not sure if I can find that, if not i'll get gasket sealer and make one. I've also picked up a fuse holder and fuses and wired that in to the board as it was missing.
  • Will the display turn on like a car when you initially turn the key without actually starting the ski? Not sure how that part is supposed to work. In other words, does the display only "display" when the ski is running?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Side note. I've checked for continuity and everything is good from the display to the board all the way to the coils. So my wires are good. For the moment I've cleaned and scrubbed all of the connections and I'm going to be rewiring it tomorrow.
 

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You don’t have to move gas tank,you need to remove storage compartment up front to get to intake hose leading to expansion chamber and a bracket holding it. There is a long bolt above the middle exhaust port that would stay with it after loosening. Some of the exhaust can be moved forward like expansion chamber if i remember right.i had to cut a notch in the fiberglass where the lip is by the black seal but not the black seal for removing one of the long bolts on top that connect expansion chamber to the manifold. SBT.com carries any gaskets you might not be able to reuse. I use bluethread locker to help so bolts don’t loosen up after running. Congrats on your work with electric box. Oh, i think your display screen shouldn’t matter for running purposes if it’s not operating. Hope i’m helping you out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You don’t have to move gas tank,you need to remove storage compartment up front to get to intake hose leading to expansion chamber and a bracket holding it. There is a long bolt above the middle exhaust port that would stay with it after loosening. Some of the exhaust can be moved forward like expansion chamber if i remember right.i had to cut a notch in the fiberglass where the lip is by the black seal but not the black seal for removing one of the long bolts on top that connect expansion chamber to the manifold. SBT.com carries any gaskets you might not be able to reuse. I use bluethread locker to help so bolts don’t loosen up after running. Congrats on your work with electric box. Oh, i think your display screen shouldn’t matter for running purposes if it’s not operating. Hope i’m helping you out.
Thanks for the input. If I can do that then awesome. I'll keep you posted. I'm in the process of reconnecting everything on the board and wouldn't you know it, the trim motor isn't connected either. I just found it buried in the back.
 

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Yea trim motor falure is common also. Some of my skis don’t have them and the one’s that do with fried motors i just have trim nozzle centered and they plane on the water fine. I changed starter on the one i adopted and tried to give you some of the tips i learned. The big 900’s and 1100 triples like my 900 tigershark now those are a PITA! Once again congrats and goodluck! I have the fuji motors in some of my polaris snowmobiles and those are bulletproof depedable in my opinion.
 

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One more thing before you do crankit make sure your plugs are connected to the wires and plugs are resting on top of motor or you can blow the cdi. With plugs and coupler cover removed you should be able to grab engine coupler and rotate motor pretty freely to make sure nothing is seized. I personally use fogging spray instead of starting fluid so the cylinders and crank bearings stay lubed.
 

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Thanks for the pointers. Much appreciated. When I get that far I'll let you know. When you say plugs to wires, are you referring to the spark plug wires to the actual spark plugs? I'm not quite understanding the resting on top receive either. I'll take a Pic tomorrow of the inside of the bay and post it.
 

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Yes, if you crank the motor to verify spark and that it does’t spark using tether/stop button also before actually running ( so you know it will shut off) the sparkplugs connected into the wire boots with plugs resting on the cylinder heads so you can visually verify spark & no spark. Some people haved cranked motors w no plugs attached to wires before which can blow cdi’s usually happens if someone is working too fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes, if you crank the motor to verify spark and that it does’t spark using tether/stop button also before actually running ( so you know it will shut off) the sparkplugs connected into the wire boots with plugs resting on the cylinder heads so you can visually verify spark & no spark. Some people haved cranked motors w no plugs attached to wires before which can blow cdi’s usually happens if someone is working too fast.
Got it. Thanks for the tip. Leave the plugs in the plug wires on top of the block to verify spark before actually turning over the engine to be able to (a) see spark and (b) to also test the kill switch to verify that it will stop spark.
 

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Yes what can also happen is when guys are doing a cylinder compression check is forget to attach plugs to wires also. I’ve almost did it a few times. I migtve but got lucky. That spark created needs to discharge through plugs (spark) and if it can’t the (cdi) capacitor discharge ignition takes the load, in turn that can possibly overload cdi in electric box. A good ground is important.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Quick question if you are around. I managed to get the old starter out however, half of the starter collar broke off in the crank housing. Isn't the starter simply pressed into the cavity? I don't see a way to open the hole up to let it out. I think it may be frozen inside of it.
 

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Wow, i just saw your starter. I’ve delt with a couple like that. Makes me wonder what the flywheel/stator and starter bendix look like. Using a flashlight and mirror you could get a peek inside starter hole to see if bendix looks rusty also you could see the piston skirts on exhaust side. Scuffing on skirts is normal, deep vertical grooves aren’t. Good to see you got all of starter removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So, I stuck my fingers in the hole and I didn't feel any debris or flakes. In fact it felt pretty smooth and lubed. The gear inside moves smoothly by touch. The new starter slid right in.

I cleaned the battery cable and connected it. I sprayed fogging oil into the cylinders. I also turned the motor by hand a few times and it turn pretty smoothly.

I gapped the plugs per the manual. They were alI overgapped. I ran the spark plugs on top and got spark. I pressed the kill switch and verified no spark. I'm excited to hear something turn and move for a change lol.

After all of this I then resssembled the exhaust.

I may not have been sold a working ski as was promised, but thankfully I'll know the ski better this way.

Tomorrow I'm going to get fresh gas and oil and try officially cranking it over. I haven't checked the manual yet for the proper fuel and oil.

Also hoping the MFD turns on tomorrow.

By the way, there is a knob on the outside of the hull just under the seat; something to do with fuel. Why is it even there? I'm guessing I need to be sure it's open to run.

I really appreciate all of your help guys. If there is anything you think I need to do before that let me know.

I'll post more pics tomorrow.
 

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Sounds like good news, so much so i might be a little jealous. You might have one better. The knob is for fuel delivery. Mine is a 96 and has the fuel/water seperator located on the inside behind the fuel shutoff/on. You will be able to maintain this better getting down and dirty with it. Glad we could help, i hope for good compression in your cylinders. Don’t forget a drainplug in rear! Lol that might be why it got a wet electric box.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Funny you mention the drain plug because I found it digging up front in the compartment. I wax wondering why there was a hole in the back. Great place for it I thought. Lol.

Fingers crossed on compression as I don't have the Guage for it to test it. Worst case it's a tad sluggish eh?

How can I test the trim motor short of just plugging into the box? It'd be nice to have to help balance the ski when riding with two people especially when you have a heavier person in the back.
 
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