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I would think some pin readings would continually vary also because of fuel and oil tank float guages are in essence varable resistors which in turn as levels change voltage would change at display giving those pins level readings but i may be overthinking that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Yea, in thinking that too. I was mainly queried about main power to the display to run it. Personally I think it's dead, but I'm giving the board a one over with CorrosionX abs a light brushing to clean it up. Letting my fingers crossed that does the trick when I plug it in. If not, oh well. I think I read it's cheaper to get a different display and convert it over. Otherwise what I have found is displays starting at around $200. Incredible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I have a random question. Do these older Polaris PWC's typically smell like fuel? Is that normal because of the gas breather tubes, when it runs, etc. I'm going to run it in the driveway to see if I have a fuel leak somewhere. Just curious.
 

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Looking at the schematic i see a red/w purple stripe that comes from cicuit breaker leading to a 1/4 amp fuse then to display( i would think that would be a main since it’s fuse protected). $200 is $200 more than what i paid. If they need work i pay for trailer and they just give the ski. If they need a gut job rebuild, my time plus parts i might break even on resale. After i get them 20yrs later they usually need complete rebuilds.There are some waterways up by me that don’t even allow two strokes on anymore. I don’t see why 50:1 is a pretty clean mix.
 

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They shouldnt smell gassy, maybe a little like exhaust. I’ve had fuel lines and such with pinhole leaks before.if the lines are stiff or/and brittle like the clear tygon fuel and oil lines then hairline cracks can happen which can suck air or piss gas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I have a random question. Do these older Polaris PWC's typically smell like fuel? Is that normal because of the gas breather tubes, when it runs, etc. I'm going to run it in the driveway to see if I have a fuel leak somewhere. Just curious.
My thought is to take it to the car wash and tip it back so that I can spray the engine bay with degreaser and then rinse it all out just to give the inside a good cleaning. I can't see damaging anything inside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Another question? Trying to install an aftermarket fuel gauge. How does the fuel sender actually work? I don't see a float and it's a bastard to get that thing out of the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
I've got the gauge working and I'm thinking it's reading something from the sending line at the sender ( i scraped some plastic away to expose the wire and tried to test it there ). I get a "full" reading if i leave the settings at 0 - 110 ohms however, when i switch the gauge to read at the 240 to 33 range it reads empty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Scratch that. Whew! Talk about a snug fit. I thought it was going to break when pulling it out. Turns out it does work. I snapped the small nut at the bottom looking for the float inside(guess it was rusted on) but I tested it out connected to the gauge and it works. Now I have to get some JB Weld or some epoxy to secure the plastic bottom and reinstall the sender into the tank. Curious as to why it didn't read initially in the tank though? There was definitely enough fuel in there as the sender unit literally goes to the bottom of the tank. Any thoughts?
 

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Yea maybe the wires bolted to it being redone gave a better connection/reading. Good to hear you had sucess. I need to wait for the docks to be put in the lakes up here before i can open this one up fully. I would do a hose hookup but only 3mins. is recommended run time out of water. I’m going to add 5gals. of 50:1 premix to tank plus oil injection to make sure it’s getting good oil injection consumption. I do that with rebuilds to so they break in correctly but have to use ngk br8es plugs instead if br9’s otherwise they foul quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
I still need to get a compression gauge on it. Wonder if AutoZone has them to rent. I haven't had it in the water since the first time. Been working on these little things and getting the registration and title not to mention the boaters online class we had to take. Not to mention the weather has been wet and cooler than I like lol.
 

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That’s a good idea renting one, it seems like you got electrical skills so that’ll go a long way. I didn’t realize the gas guage wires don’t bolt to top of tank. I was thinking of my sharks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Gotcha. Will keep ya posted when I get my hands on one. Yep, going to put the sender unit back in once I JB Weld the bottom plastic piece. Also just got in a couple of rearview mirrors for the handlebars.
 

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Cool rearviews would add some style. I’m going to add some pics of things i add onto my intake line before it enters engine on all my skis. These probly wouldn’t fit the polaris slx cause i think they have 3/4 tubing. The ballvalve is for if you think about it, what if you stranded on the water and someone tows you back. If they pull you over 5mph it’s going to force water into the intake line and through exhaust and possibly swamp the engine.the screen filter catches alot of crap and i always clean after each use. I’m probly over meticulous but just some stuff to consider. Also if you ever premix fuel it can only be done on carbuerated engines, never premix 2 strokes w/ fuel injection ( it will clog injectors) just an fyi.
DD8558D0-EC85-41FD-AE15-4ABFC5CAE234.jpeg
7F0A31F5-607E-442D-9536-2BE600883FC4.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
The water comes in here from the rear to the block, right? I like the idea that you can shut the flow off. Great idea!

Question on sending into. The float is not light enough with the magnetic bar in it to float inside the unit. How does this part work? Fuel out to the engine makes sense. The is also a return to the tank via the nozzle in front of the yellow plastic shield. There is also a nozzle right above the float.

What makes this float um well, float up? It's not very buoyant.

The guage reads the float if I manually push the float up the sending units "arse".
 

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Your right with water supply to block and expansion chamber, good idea unless you forget to reopen valve! Lol As far as float i will have to look into that, off the top of my head im wondering if it uses a electrical “field” to read level if you will. I know polaris made some of the other skis w “hall effect” ignition systems but thats a different story. I did notice mine had a flaw recently i was checking my 1way valves on tank breathers. The air in for oil and fueltank is clipped to tube that runs electrical from handlebars to electric box and those were good but on left side of handle bar in front for fuel tank air out breather mine was plugged and needed replacing,i couldn’t blowout of it and heard a whoosh when i removed gas cap. Just an fyi cause a bloated or collapsed tank would shut her down out on water!
 
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