My '97 GP 1200 runs like a champ in straight lines or hard turns to the left. However, when doing very hard turns to the right, it will temporarily cut out or, if I hold the turn, completely shut down. It seems like the engine is starving for fuel (need a couple of good squirts from primer to start again). This seems to be quite consistent no matter the fuel level or which pick-up (on or reserve). My ski has minor mods (A&D head, ported, re-jetted, K&N intakes, Solas J, etc). I recall seeing something about this being a problem on all GPs. In any case, I'd like to fix if possible. Anyone familiar with this and know of a simple fix? Thanks.
'97 GP1200 Cuts out when turned to right
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15 Posts
Sounds like the carbs are getting dry, especially if it needs the primer to restart. May need to check the pop off pressure of the needle and seat in the carbs and possibly soften up a few psi.
Pop off pressure is 80+psi
OK. Pulled out carbs. Checked pop-off pressure. It's above 80psi! I guess it's not a surprise as I have a gold spring and needle valve is 1.2mm (stock for GP1200s). Mikuni instruction book indicates that pop-off pressure for their minimum 1.5mm valve and gold spring should be 55psi. Since carb removal on these machines is a royal pain, what valve/spring should I try to have the best chance of getting it right? I'm thinking 1.5mm/black to get to 38psi. Is this reasonable? Thanks.
OK. Pulled out carbs. Checked pop-off pressure. It's above 80psi! I guess it's not a surprise as I have a gold spring and needle valve is 1.2mm (stock for GP1200s). Mikuni instruction book indicates that pop-off pressure for their minimum 1.5mm valve and gold spring should be 55psi. Since carb removal on these machines is a royal pain, what valve/spring should I try to have the best chance of getting it right? I'm thinking 1.5mm/black to get to 38psi. Is this reasonable? Thanks.
I realize this is my first post to the forum, but I owned an extensively modified 97 GP1200 for a lot of years. Great boat, I miss the hell out of mine. I felt compelled to register here and post since I experienced a similar problem many years ago. I thought the same thing you are about the angle of the carbs while carving a hard turn and fuel starvation. The actual cause of my problem was much more mundane.
Just to rule this out, open your cowl, turn the bars hard right and look for the areas in the wiring harness that are stressed/stretched, particularly the connecting plugs. Your problem may resolve itself if you can free up a little slack in the harness by relocating or repositioning some of the cable ties. Mine did.
Just to rule this out, open your cowl, turn the bars hard right and look for the areas in the wiring harness that are stressed/stretched, particularly the connecting plugs. Your problem may resolve itself if you can free up a little slack in the harness by relocating or repositioning some of the cable ties. Mine did.
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2 Posts
Hey guys. I'm looking for an aftermarket quick shift system for my GP1200, I'm havin a hard time finding one, everywhere is sold out or they are discontinued.
Is there a place to find one or a way to modify one from a GPR so I can have a one step lever rather than a 5 position twist grip?
Is there a place to find one or a way to modify one from a GPR so I can have a one step lever rather than a 5 position twist grip?
Update on Bogging Problem
Sorry don't have any leads on quick shift for the GP....
Bogging update: have solved the low/mid speed bogging problem by changing jet size and pop-off spring. Now works like a champ at low speed. Turns out stock spring/jet are far too restrictive if using aftermarket flame arrestors or engine mods.
However, I still have the engine cut-out problems when turning to right. I checked wire/cable routing and see no snags/tugs pointed out by others. In fact, I am now experiencing cut-outs after 2-3 seconds at full throttle even when going straight or turning left! If I back off on throttle to 1/2-3/4 engine recovers fine until full throttle again. I'd say it acts a lot like a mild sieze but checked compression and all is well (exact 110 on all three).
I still think it could be a high speed fuel starvation. Tried full/partial tank with on/res switch in both settings - no change. Would reducing pop-off pressure affect high speed fuel delivery? Could it be a defective exhaust temp sensor??? Any more suggestions? Thanks.
Sorry don't have any leads on quick shift for the GP....
Bogging update: have solved the low/mid speed bogging problem by changing jet size and pop-off spring. Now works like a champ at low speed. Turns out stock spring/jet are far too restrictive if using aftermarket flame arrestors or engine mods.
However, I still have the engine cut-out problems when turning to right. I checked wire/cable routing and see no snags/tugs pointed out by others. In fact, I am now experiencing cut-outs after 2-3 seconds at full throttle even when going straight or turning left! If I back off on throttle to 1/2-3/4 engine recovers fine until full throttle again. I'd say it acts a lot like a mild sieze but checked compression and all is well (exact 110 on all three).
I still think it could be a high speed fuel starvation. Tried full/partial tank with on/res switch in both settings - no change. Would reducing pop-off pressure affect high speed fuel delivery? Could it be a defective exhaust temp sensor??? Any more suggestions? Thanks.
quick trim
Riva makes the 2 position drop nozzle for 1200/1300, i have it and love it ,stays in nuetral (nozzle is level) and one down (bringing nose down) for sharper turns, its an easy install...
Riva makes the 2 position drop nozzle for 1200/1300, i have it and love it ,stays in nuetral (nozzle is level) and one down (bringing nose down) for sharper turns, its an easy install...
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2 Posts
GP1200r Stalls on Right turn
Was this ever solved??? My 2001 gp1200r has the exact same problem. No mods. Its better once its warmed up but for the first 2 minutes it will stall for sure on a right turn. Left and straight is fine.My '97 GP 1200 runs like a champ in straight lines or hard turns to the left. However, when doing very hard turns to the right, it will temporarily cut out or, if I hold the turn, completely shut down. It seems like the engine is starving for fuel (need a couple of good squirts from primer to start again). This seems to be quite consistent no matter the fuel level or which pick-up (on or reserve). My ski has minor mods (A&D head, ported, re-jetted, K&N intakes, Solas J, etc). I recall seeing something about this being a problem on all GPs. In any case, I'd like to fix if possible. Anyone familiar with this and know of a simple fix? Thanks.
87 GP Cutting out SOLVED!
Yes, Problem has been solved! Turns out there was a small pebble lodged in the water bypass line (warm water jet out the left side of hull). For some reason at full power, flow was restricted such that turning to right was just enough to trigger the overheat shutdown sensor. Blew out the line, jet now flows free and ski runs strong straight, right, left, you name it.
Have a new problem (more of a nuisance really) - low fuel alarm comes on after starting even with full tank. I imagine it is bad fuel sender. Easy to ignore by pushing any button to silence alarm but if someone knows of easy fix, may be worth spending an hour on it. Thanks.
Yes, Problem has been solved! Turns out there was a small pebble lodged in the water bypass line (warm water jet out the left side of hull). For some reason at full power, flow was restricted such that turning to right was just enough to trigger the overheat shutdown sensor. Blew out the line, jet now flows free and ski runs strong straight, right, left, you name it.
Have a new problem (more of a nuisance really) - low fuel alarm comes on after starting even with full tank. I imagine it is bad fuel sender. Easy to ignore by pushing any button to silence alarm but if someone knows of easy fix, may be worth spending an hour on it. Thanks.
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2 Posts
My right turn stalling goes away as the engine warms up so I think I must have some other problem. The engine often makes a "popping" sound like its missing sometimes (even after its warmed up).Yes, Problem has been solved! Turns out there was a small pebble lodged in the water bypass line (warm water jet out the left side of hull). For some reason at full power, flow was restricted such that turning to right was just enough to trigger the overheat shutdown sensor. Blew out the line, jet now flows free and ski runs strong straight, right, left, you name it.
Have a new problem (more of a nuisance really) - low fuel alarm comes on after starting even with full tank. I imagine it is bad fuel sender. Easy to ignore by pushing any button to silence alarm but if someone knows of easy fix, may be worth spending an hour on it. Thanks.
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