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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I Would Appreciate Any Help Out There! I have a 97 Kawasaki 750SS single carb that I've owned for 14 years. It has been running well until I had the carb rebuilt 2 years ago. After the carb was rebuilt I would have to choke it alot to get it to start but once it started it would run great at high speed. It didn't run well at idle but I didn't know to tune the low mixture screw. Then just a couple weeks ago I couldn't get it started even with choking it alot so I took it to a shop. They took the choke off, installed a primer kit, rebuilt the fuel pump, went through the carb, and reset the pop off to about 20-22. It will start on land fine but will not start or run in water! I don't know what else could be the problem. I put a rebuilt engine in it 2011, compression is still fine, 145. Leakdown test was done 2 years ago, fine. Battery good, cables and fuel lines good. New spark plugs, fuel filter changed, one way valve changed, no water in gas. Could the impeller have any effect on this problem? Thank You for any help!!
 

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no, the shop that did the service was of poor quality. Pulling the choke plate off and installing a primer kit is a backyard shop solution to a hard starting problem. You would do well just buying a used carb from ebay and installing that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
no, the shop that did the service was of poor quality. Pulling the choke plate off and installing a primer kit is a backyard shop solution to a hard starting problem. You would do well just buying a used carb from ebay and installing that.
Thank you! Now they are saying it might be a compression release problem on the bottom of the motor, a knob that is hooked to the exhaust. Other thoughts are that it might have an air leak problem somewhere because it is really starving for fuel. I have to prime it every time I start it. They did put a different carb on it and it did run but they never water tested it in a body of water. It runs on land but not in water. Guesses out there are crank seal, reeds, or that compression release. I don't know! It still doesn't idle longer than 25 seconds on land.
 

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and to further display their ignorance that particular knob is NOT a compression release

its used to drain water from the crankcase in the event of a roll over at speed and water ingestion

pro tip: never touch that knob, the drain tends to stick open these days and the only way to get at it is to pull the engine

you need to find an experienced tech to sort out your problems, one that has a test tank ( like my shop does) or somebody with the ability to live water test it

be prepared to pay and pay and pay as these guys keep guessing and making rookie mistakes

the guesses you mentioned are all wrong, you stated that the leakdown test passed. if the drain was stuck open it would fail.

failing to idle is clearly a fuel delivery problem, and that is going to require somebody with a working knowledge of the Kawasaki fuel system to sort

I actually quit working on two strokes five years ago as it seems every single ski that rolled into the shop had been worked on by somebodies cousin who "knew outboards" and it turned into a money pit nearly each and every time with highly laughable solutions to non problems, like people tearing out choke plates and installing primers with improperly set up lines, carbs installed with RTV instead of proper gaskets, carbs with missing parts ( like main jets) carbs where the mixture adjustment screws were ruined from overtightening and ski where the OEM fuel filters were replaced with cheap ass paper filters from auto zone.

A ski like yours could easy run up a $500 labor charge for diagnostics and corrections before it ran perfect in the water tank. and then likely $100 in parts

my advice?

buy a running ski and just take the loss on this one OR get a service manual, watch lots of you tube videos and make some new friends, there are plenty of folks out there that ride two strokes that know lots more then the shop your dealing with does

sorry the news isn't better, but take the bitter pill now, or bleed out over the next several months
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
and to further display their ignorance that particular knob is NOT a compression release

its used to drain water from the crankcase in the event of a roll over at speed and water ingestion

pro tip: never touch that knob, the drain tends to stick open these days and the only way to get at it is to pull the engine

you need to find an experienced tech to sort out your problems, one that has a test tank ( like my shop does) or somebody with the ability to live water test it

be prepared to pay and pay and pay as these guys keep guessing and making rookie mistakes

the guesses you mentioned are all wrong, you stated that the leakdown test passed. if the drain was stuck open it would fail.

failing to idle is clearly a fuel delivery problem, and that is going to require somebody with a working knowledge of the Kawasaki fuel system to sort

I actually quit working on two strokes five years ago as it seems every single ski that rolled into the shop had been worked on by somebodies cousin who "knew outboards" and it turned into a money pit nearly each and every time with highly laughable solutions to non problems, like people tearing out choke plates and installing primers with improperly set up lines, carbs installed with RTV instead of proper gaskets, carbs with missing parts ( like main jets) carbs where the mixture adjustment screws were ruined from overtightening and ski where the OEM fuel filters were replaced with cheap ass paper filters from auto zone.

A ski like yours could easy run up a $500 labor charge for diagnostics and corrections before it ran perfect in the water tank. and then likely $100 in parts

my advice?

buy a running ski and just take the loss on this one OR get a service manual, watch lots of you tube videos and make some new friends, there are plenty of folks out there that ride two strokes that know lots more then the shop your dealing with does

sorry the news isn't better, but take the bitter pill now, or bleed out over the next several months
It's great to hear from someone who runs a shop, thank you! I'm a female if you haven't guessed but I've been learning alot about parts and how things work. I do have the actual Kawasaki Service Manual & the supplement but I can't find that knob in the manual yet. The leakdown test I had done 2 years ago, I just called that shop (was a different shop) to clarify, they only did what they called a "top leakdown test" - basically compression only. So I guess I have not had an actual crankcase leakdown test. I know that the carb kit and the fuel pump rebuild kit are Keihin and the correct ones for my jetski. Just don't know if they installed the fuel pump kit right.

They also said my line was routed wrong, it was routed through the one-way valve, then through the water separator and back to the tank. They said that was wrong. They took out the water separator (said it wasn't needed unless I overturn the jetski and it sucks up water that way), and ran the lines straight up through the handlebars. I have no idea if that re-routing of lines affected anything. They race jetskis and said they route all their skis that way.

I don't know if the reeds have ever been replaced, a different mechanic I know said reeds could make it hard to start and not run right. They have offered to take it to a body of water and look at the carburetor again but do you think I need that crankcase leakdown test done? But then I'm hearing that needs to have the motor out or else make sure the exhaust & intake are covered. That shop thought it shouldn't be a crank seal problem since it ran on land with a carb off a running jetski.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Also interesting when I had the jetski running for those 15 seconds on the ramp at the lake and then backed down in the water, that immediately shuts it down.
 
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