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Discussion Starter · #181 ·
That is the idle screw bracket? As in idle screw threads through it?

The carb body I believe is truly a white pot metal. I don't think that anything will work short of jb weld. But it will need to be grease/oil free and paint removed from area. I would build it up heavy on both sides and over the top. Rough it up good so JB sticks well.

That sludge is probably 20yrs old. Good quality oil will help keep it from forming.
I use interceptor oil from amzoil. It's made for power valve motors. It's a low smoke, high detergent oil. If you join and become a preferred customer its cheeper then yamalube. Another choice is Pennzoil full synthetic premium plus 2stroke. I don't know that it's higher in detergents but I use it in my boat motors and there is no carbon build up on the Pistons.

Being you've cleaned the oil tank now's the time to change oils. That way you have no concerns on mixing oils that's not recommend.
I am using the XLF from Penzoil would that be considered acceptable.
I will try the JB and would the original be sufficient
 

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Discussion Starter · #183 ·
Hey Dave so I took off the valve reeds and the silver plate. The plate shows some scoring can I use some gasket sealer on it such as gasgachinch 440
Or the threebond 1211
To avoid leaks at the reeds. Read about it and it seems that's where the leaks usually occur.
Also I read that on the trailer the idle should be 2800 to 3000?
Mine is at 1300 and that's with the idle screw adjusted. Runs smooth. Didn't go on water yet hope to soon.
Is there a difference in idle on water from on the trailer?
 

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Around the Reed plates I use just a very thin light coat of (rtv) silicone gasket sealer both sides.
As for reusing gaskets it's a personal preference. I don't like to myself. I will if I just put it together and had to pull it apart again. If the gasket didn't get messed up as all I won't. Personally I don't like to use any sealer on gaskets.

Idle will drop a bit in the water. 200/300 rpm maybe.
 

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You asked me awhile back about weather Zardoz or Rodsatheart were still around. I don't have contact info for zardoz. But I can't reach Rods even by phone call. Odd that he hasn't been on here. Texts and calls go unanswered. He usually answers right off when message. Hope he's ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #188 ·
You asked me awhile back about weather Zardoz or Rodsatheart were still around. I don't have contact info for zardoz. But I can't reach Rods even by phone call. Odd that he hasn't been on here. Texts and calls go unanswered. He usually answers right off when message. Hope he's ok.
Yeah it's pretty strange nobody drips off like that. Hope they're ok also I mean for the both of them to do it it's either a weird coincidence or bad sign. I you find out let me know. Didn't know them but the lent a hand and that alone makes them important.
 

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Discussion Starter · #189 ·
Hey Dave any idea where to find the throttle linkage plastic ends on the triple carbs for the Yamaha GP1200. The plastic part that snaps on the ball on the MAG and PTO carbs. One of mine snapped and I used plastic epoxy. I'll see tomorrow if it holds. These should be standard for lots of things. Let me know and thanks

tomorrow ps
BN38/573-1A
 

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Discussion Starter · #193 ·
Ok so I am trying to start it and am getting that annoying beep warning. I put gas in the cyls and it staryed that way. Put oil and gas for good measure and it ran and when it stopped it didn't want to restart. The onboard is flashing the gas and oil. I put 1 gallon plus of oil in the tank and some in the cyls. I show 2 lines of gas in the tank.
Now what. Also when you adjust idle how do you know where you are with the screw?
 

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Did the oil system get bled out?
Not sure on alarm. You can unplug the oil and fuel tank sensors one at a time to see which is causing issue if it's them. The idle screw for now. screw it in till it contacts and give maybe 1/2 turn. Once you get it running then adjust to around 1400rpm. 1300 rpm when in the water.
Try putting fuel valve in reserve. Dry carbs can take a fair time cranking to get fuel flowing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #195 ·
I was basically trying to start with an empty tank. Lame ass way. So I started it but on the idle I screw it clockwise and then I cannot screw it anymore so I go the other way. I don't hear a difference. It doesn't go up or down on idle. It's above 1100 for now.
Another thing I noticed when I turned off the water there is water still coming out of the back but it is dirty with black oil in it.. Is it old stuff from sitting for all this time or is there oil in the water?
 

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The dark water is typical right now. You more then likely have excess oil in the exhaust. The water and exhaust combine in the water box till they exit the ski under the ride plate. After turning off the water always blip the throttle a couple times to blow the excess water out.
I'm not sure why your idle screw wouldn't adjust rpm. In pics above it appears to be in contact or almost in contact with the throttle tab. With more than enough adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #197 ·
Just wondering the excess oil in the exhaust is that a normal thing, or caused by engine in need of rebuild. The one I rebuild doesn't seem to do it. And by the way after shutting the water off I bliped quite a few times and there was water coming out still. More than 20 times
Yes it was touching and moving the plates withthe car off. Juat to double check it's clickwise to raise the idle right?
 

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The extra oil can come from lots of things. Cranking a lot, short run times exc. Once you get it running and on the water it should clear up after a good run.
Yes counter clockwise is correct to increase RPM
 
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