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This is the SBT page an my model 2000 XL1200 not included
https://www.shopsbt.com/jetski/Yamaha-exhaust-valve-kit-gp800-xlt-gp1200r-98-05.html

This is the WSM page showing compatibility if you click on the valve and again it doesn't show the 2000 XL1200
https://www.wsmparts.com/results.aspx?id=Inventory/a_ID_3_-1_-1_-1_152_-2"
Actually look at the attachment below

The ones I just returned did slide in the slot easily, is the leverlink that when attached cause all the problem , probably because they are poorly made. The valve shaft did not easily slide through had to use round file to make it larger, then when installed they do not turn by hand the links are big, I filed them and still not good enough, really bad, but they were not WSM or SBT they were off the market Pro-Marine, which is probably BS.
But why is it none of the pages list mine as a compatible one. only XLT kit, GP1200R some 800's etc. are on the list. The Partzilla number is VALVE ASSY. 66E-1131S-10-00 WTF
SBT or WSM are the correct vavles for your motor the valves are all the same. no difference at all. number: 46-406-10K @ SBT

https://www.shopsbt.com/mm5/merchan...1&sortby=price-desc&findmake=300&findyear=316
 

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Discussion Starter · #107 · (Edited)
I do understand but the retainer links sometimes are not really good and you still have to work them into shape, but using the wave eaters clips with the original Yamaha links seems like a no brainer, cheaper($25 for 3) and smaller in size, plus you don't have to change the factory well designed(except for the pin falling out) links. The only think is probably the fact that the bolt wasn't good enough for to piece torqueing. Hopefully these WSMs ones are plug and play with no need for grinding or filing, as the last ones from Pro-Marine/BS links were horribly out of line, the valves were fine though smooth up and down, without the link attached, with the link they were locked up. I will be getting the WSM's ones and I will let you know how they play.

Another thing is my link bolt 91317-04008-00 from Crankcase #2 page on Partzilla item #13 got the head stripped, it's allen, so I went to Orchard hardware and found same size bolt 8/32 a bit longer and the head a tiny bit larger, stainless steel. Is the stainless strong enough, I already ordered 3 new bolts from Crowley but they have to order from the dealer first then I get it next week by Friday.
 

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I have several sets of SBT valves running. Every last set dropped in with no issues. I have never had to fit them to make work. Plain and simple, "plug and play".
Again be sure to locktite all the internal bolt for the valves. You don't want one to fall into motor if where to come loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
I just wanted to mention that I got the WSM valves that cost $61+ from EBay and they are a complete different story than the other Pro-Marine junk. These fit right off and no issue when bolts are on, I think we have a winner.
I was looking at the triple carburetors to buy the kits and the needles and seats. I remember Dave mentioning something on size on the needles and alo if just any gasket kits are ok(EBay). If possible for a repeat on that info.
 

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For carbs I've used both SBT and mikuni kits with same results. But BIG difference in price. Use SBT.
The needle and seat is 1.2 mm factory.
Remember each of the three carbs are different and go to a specific cyl. Don't mix them up. Different jetting and setting. Remember one carb at a time. Mark each high and low screw and count turns in till lightly seated and record. Then disassemble and keep old parts particularly the spring for the needle/seat. springs are color coded, but best to check with pop off pump guage to be sure or use old spring.
It is best to do the pressure balance upgrade to carbs but will require you to buy an 1/8" drill, 5mm tap, and a mikuni main jet. Will post up grade how to.

the USA 1200 skis, do to EPA reg's, ran very lean so if you fudge a bit on your high screw make it to the rich side.(out) 1/16 turn

http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=177671
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
I am still working on the upper engine still have to find out the type of Mikuni carbs (sbn,bn etc.)I have and the kits and seats, stuff that goes with it. I am asking this ahead of time to prepare the brain for tye task
 

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Discussion Starter · #117 · (Edited)
I am about to slide the bottom part of the engine in and I realized that I have no idea how the shims go between the mount and the engine. The mount on the engine is slanted so do they slide from bottom up or top down or side to side.
 

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I am about to slide the bottom part of the engine in and I realized that I have no idea how the shims go between the mount and the engine. The mount on the engine is slanted so do they slide from bottom up or top down or side to side.
It does not matter how they go. What matters is where they go. they need to stay on the same mount they came from. If they are all the same thickness and one was on each mount then your good. If there different thickness. Or were stacked on one side. Then you'll have to follow the coupling set up in the manual to get them in correct location.

Really you'll need to check coupling alignment anyway. as the motor can be moved around on mounts so much. You'll need to get it straight. Easy to do. it's under "coupling clearance inspection" of the power unit chapter. Subheading, engine unit.

Check on top of the coupling and on the side. Top is mostly shim and side is more for motor alignment.
 

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OK I finally understood the process I watched this video:
there is a part 2 also
My shims are 3X1.95mm and 1x1.90mm
Good video, with what you have for shims you should be good with one on each corner. They are basically 4 of the same shims.
You have .5mm clearance allowance and only a .05mm shim difference.
 
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