Personal Water Craft Forum banner
121 - 140 of 216 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter · #121 ·
Hey guys sorry I haven't been posting lately, had some personal stuff come up, I will soon reengage in the rebuilding of the XL-1200 topic, am now waiting on a drain nut for the reverse cable that I lost and had to order, as soon as I get it I will start to put the stuff back together and am sure will have questions for the experts, here. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter · #124 · (Edited)
Great to be back, all is well thanks for asking, so I bought a used/like new reverse cable for the XL1200 and it didn't have the drain nut and since I lost mine I bought one on EBay, I got the package today after 1 week with no nut inside just an empty plastic package, it was like $7 so no biggie, but now I have to wait again. And this is after buying a different reverse cable that turned out to be the wrong cable, the seller didn't bother to read the numbers on the cable before listing, so 2.5 week delay. Is there a way to buy these large nuts at Home Depot they look the same as the toilet's fill valve nut or the flush handle nut(maybe that's too small) but definitely the other. I don't have a problem buying one new but they take too long to get here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter · #126 · (Edited)
Hi guys finally got the cables set up and am looking to get going on the project, I want to install the (crank side) flange coupler back and I read you should use the anti-seize compound to get it off easier next time. My question is do I have to torque it or is it self tightening from the engine spin. Don't have a special tool for it.
Next step 3 pistons and positioning the rings.
Thanks fellas
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,060 Posts
The coupler should be torqued. I've never put anything on the threads. Chances of having to go back into the bottom end are minimal unless the top end grenades and breaks a rod or something else that requires the crank to get rebuilt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter · #132 ·
It sure will get tighter, I will do just as you said on the Loctite.
I want to buy the carburetors kit. There is are short posts from Dave and others on pages 1,2 and 12 about it. Dave mentions that I need pressure balance upgrade(?link) and to do that I need to change the needle and seat from 1.2mm to 1.5mm. I want to know the cheapest best kits with links if possible and also the needles and seats(links) and if there are any links for the actual upgrades otherwise is the manual enough? Thanks guys
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,060 Posts
Go with genuine mikuni or wsm kits. No they don't come with seats. You will need to buy them seperate. If you get cheap kits, you get what you pay for. You can kit the kits from sbt and i believe the needle and seats also. Dave will have to get you the other info you need.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,609 Posts
Sorry guys been busy. Am off on vacation at my lake house. I've used both mikuni and sbts kits with success. Prefer mikuni. The price Rods shown on Amazon is half what I payed for them. You'll also need a 1.2 needle and seat. I usually reuse the old needle spring so the pressure stays the same.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
141 Posts
Discussion Starter · #138 · (Edited)
1)OK so the 44mm is for sure what I need because I saw 46mm also?

2)Hi Dave thanks for the comments, hope you enjoy the lake house, sure you are, so you're saying I should do 1.2mm and not 1.5mm? You suggested to do the pressure balance upgrade to 1.5mm. Can I get more info on that and why it should be done?

3)Yesterday I opened up the starter and wanted to rebuild it but it turned out that the kit I bought online was much thinner than the existing one and the brushes were not worn out they were actually the same size as the new ones. It was however a bitch to put the brushes back in place had to use my engineering side of the brain. I did paint the housing which looked liked shit now it looks good. The guy before me rebuilt it already, or didn't use it much. With that in mind I wonder if the carburetors were ever upgraded to 1.5mm? How do I find out?

4)So rod you're saying I really need the pop-off pump? Is that a manual pump or compressed air one? I do have 2 compressors can't I use those to test the pressure? Thanks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,060 Posts
The size is on the seat. It's small but it's there. No you cant use compressed air. The pump is for checking the neddle pop off. If you stay with the oem seats and springs you will be ok without it just reuse the springs.
 
121 - 140 of 216 Posts
Top