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Discussion Starter #161
Hey Dave are rodsatheart and Zardoz still around hope everyone is still around and ok
 

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Discussion Starter #162
I did the pop off again after changing back to the original springs and they all popped at around 63. Is that ok?
 

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63 should be ok. If you want to tune it a bit, stretch the spring ever so slightly. But if they were ok before you should be good.

Haven't heard from zardoz in a Coons age. Not sure what's up with him. I don't have any contact info for him. I have Rods number and may call if I don't see him on soon. I've pm'd him a few times no response.
 

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Discussion Starter #164
BN 46Ipic2  .jpg



Is the pop off supposed to be higher, what happens when I stretch it?
Wanted to know if I can use the sheet above from SBT and use the 1200R cc settings. I read you're supposed to look at the plugs after 5 minutes of riding and don't idle before shut off to get accurate results.
And if I decide to play with the high/low screws can it be done with the exhaust on? Doesn't seem like it.
Also the check valves I used are the old ones they don't have any markings and are the same on both sides. Did not see any videos that mentioned using a certain side. The SBT(or Mikuni? originals) ones have the blue line. Don't have those.
Because I opened the carbs a few times the BN46i/13 gasket in the picture stuck to the body of the pump assemble and when I peeled it off a little bit stuck to it. So all 3 have something like the picture peeled off but it's on the side and facing up towards the vent hole of the pump cover. This is the only one that sticks. Should I use any gasket maker on that area like Gasgacinch 440A which is recommended for the 3 carburator to intake gaskets.
or something?
Am waiting for the Pennzoil XLF oil and I will try to finally start the sucker.
 

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Yes, You want to use the 1200R settings from paper.

@63 for pop off you will be fine. I would leave it be. Only mentioned stretching spring if you wanted to adjust a bit higher. MUST be careful as you can go over psi very easy. Then your done and need new spring of like color. So I would leave be @ 63.

The high/low screws are very hard to get to with the exhaust on. On my 800's I can't get my big hands under to get to them. Not sure if the 1200 has any more room. They do make a special screw driver that makes it easy. But I Don't have one.
Did you document high/low screw settings before disassembly? If so put them at those settings. Adding about an 1/8 turn out to high screws.

The check valves do come new with a color mark. I've always been told the marks go out. Once in contact with fuel the marks disappear.

I don't recommend any use of sealer on carb gaskets. To easy to block small holes. I can't see damage in the pic. I would say use it as is.

Yes, the best way to check carb setting in field is a chop test. With new plugs in. Run 5 min wide open throttle. Then kill motor, no idling. And remove plugs. Checking color of plugs. They should be a dark brown. Light coloring = lean. BLK = rich.
This is NOT easily done on the water, especially if water is rough.
 

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Discussion Starter #168
Looking at them through a magnifying glass I don't see any difference in shape.
 

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The only way to get valves I know of is another kit. I only recommend getting true Mikuni kits. not cheaper after market kits.

I've never been able to see a difference in one side verses the other on the valves. Have always been told marked side out. Sometimes it's even very hard to tell witch is witch. I've never seen it written anywhere either.
 

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Discussion Starter #170

All genuine Mikuni parts sol individually. Really nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #171
So I put the carbs together after rebuild and the throttle plate on top from the last MAG carb. wasn't closing all the way as were the other 2. Is that something that is normal. I adjusted the link to close it all the way when turned.
15920823043735211130633069152307.jpg
 

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When you mount them to the rack plate leave them all loose. Then move them around till they settle. All throttle plates closed no stress on linkages. Sometimes it takes a couple tries to get them right the first time.make sure the idle screw is not holding first carb open.
 

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Discussion Starter #174
So I finally put the carbs back this weekend and after not being able to start at first I did a search and found out how to build pressure in the carbs by removing the plugs putting rags removing the return hose and crank untill I got gas out of return hose.
It then started right up. The idle was kind of low and it stalled at first so I raised the idle. It's at around 1300 to 1500 now. Didn't really mess with it much. So my low speed adjustment was set to 1 and 1/8 on all as per guide from sbt sheet.
When I raised the idle it was running pretty good.
I did not let it run too much as the gas is from last year and want to add some stabilizer in it and put more gas and some oil in the gas as per instructions with a newly rebuilt engine.
There is white smoke coming out which is moving away rapidly so it could be steam.
So what else should I do now?
 

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If your still using oil injection then:
If it running well enough to ride put in 5 or 6 gallons of fresh 50/1 premix and ride varying rpm but not holding at any given speed long.

If running premix only:
mix 5 or 6 gallons at 25/1 and ride as above varying rpm.
Note: at these rich oil mix's you may foul plugs if running low rpm for long.

After that fuel is consumed go to only injected or premix at 40/1.
 

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Discussion Starter #176
I have started some semi rebuild on the GP1200AY
Model and am doing cables, carbs rebuild and adjust, cleaning the oil container replacing hoses. When I opened up the power valves a lot of sludge revealed itself. Is that a problem. How do I clean it better?
20200621_124006.jpg
20200621_124016.jpg
 

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The sludge in the power valve link box is common. Unfortunately the only way I've found to do a good cleaning is to remove each cyl and wash them out with solvent. You can carefully remove to worst of it without dropping any inside motor. But you can't get it good and clean that way.
Looking at what's in the picture. Those appear to still be the original link on the valve. Those need upgraded links to capture the link pin. The original are open on the ends and allow the pin to fall out. See pic, link open at arrow points. Can see pin ends. You can either replace the link from SBT or use the wave eater clips that go over the existing link.
My suggestion would be to remove each cyl and clean. You need the valves to move freely for the system to work properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #178
Is this sludge something that needs cleaning as a maintenance procedure every year?
I also need to ask you about something that broke off the MAG carb on this one. It's the place where the idle screw goes into broke in half. What do you suggest? Weld if aluminum or JB Weld or Aluminum Brazing.
 

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That is the idle screw bracket? As in idle screw threads through it?

The carb body I believe is truly a white pot metal. I don't think that anything will work short of jb weld. But it will need to be grease/oil free and paint removed from area. I would build it up heavy on both sides and over the top. Rough it up good so JB sticks well.

That sludge is probably 20yrs old. Good quality oil will help keep it from forming.
I use interceptor oil from amzoil. It's made for power valve motors. It's a low smoke, high detergent oil. If you join and become a preferred customer its cheeper then yamalube. Another choice is Pennzoil full synthetic premium plus 2stroke. I don't know that it's higher in detergents but I use it in my boat motors and there is no carbon build up on the Pistons.

Being you've cleaned the oil tank now's the time to change oils. That way you have no concerns on mixing oils that's not recommend.
 

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