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Ok going tomorrow to pick up an RXP I found I think im gonna take it. 2006 gold/blk around 85 hrs. Always serviced at seadoo shop and kept in garage during winter. agreed price of $5500 with single place trailer. Is this a decent deal?? ANYTHING anyone can think of to check for on this? Has not had the ceramic washers replaced, he an older guy and never heard of it before.
You did very well!
I'd try to ride it before the money is exchanged. I insisted on riding mine and it was at the dealership.
Just as well plan on doing the S/C rebuild right away. I see on green hulk a guy is doing then for reasonable cost and next day turn around
 

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Well I'm driving almost 2 hrs to get it, it'll be close to 9 at night. Probably won't be able to put it anywehre to ride it. He said I could start it for a few seconds and it starts right up. Why would I rebuild the supercharger?!? I was just going to upgrade the washers before 100 hrs.....is there something else I should know!?
I was advised that every 100 hours that you should rebuild the supercharger. Read here: Sea Doo Supercharger Rebuild Service
Sounds like it costs approximately $400 for a full rebuild
You ride that thing and you'll definately think it's worth it
 

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Is there a write up with pics anywhere on how exactly to do this bucket mod? I just dont want to loose reverse. The river has a nasty current by me and i use it a lot for loading and unloading it. But ill grind away for the 2mph. But mine just doesnt go anywhere out of the hole like it should I dont think, it just revs and hits the rev limiter then gets goin. Is this normal?

BTW Im planning on doing the riva stage 1 next month when I have the blower rebuilt and all that noise. Any other mods youd suggest why its off?
either your wear ring around the impeller is toast or you have some garbage lodged in the pump somewhere if you're hitting the rev limiter on your take-offs. Sadly I'm betting it's the wear ring. My ski will launch hard from a stand still. You have to also be losing top speed with that issue
 

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Does anyone make aftermarket cosmetic parts for the 06 rxp? I accidently broke one of those hoses on the hood that looks like a vaccume cleaner hose. They look retarded imo anyways. Think its called a vent tube or something there grey and run on both sides of the hood. Anyone make a chrome replacement or anything? Its a ski not a shop vac lol
Found this when I was looking for something else:
RIVA Stainless Steel Braided Vent Hose For RXP [RS5-0100] - $99.95 : PWCPerformance.com
 

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Great, how much is that going to cost on top of the 500 for the charger rebuild I should do soon since I just hit 88hrs on ceramic washers...cheaper to have it done while there takin the charger off? After looking at this thing I dnt feel comfortable working on it myself at this point...

You can get a stock plastic wear ring for $65 and a stainless riva one for $190. It sounds like it's a bitch to change but it you were going to do your RIVA stage one kit, you'd be into some of this stuff anyway. The only things you will be doing mechanically repetitive with the supercharger overhaul is taking the seat off. The good news is the supercharger rebuild is only $400 including labor and shipping back to you from Jerry @ green hulk forums.

This was from a user "kustomkarl" on the seadoo forums:

Replacing the wear ring

For starters....

1.) Remove the three hoses on the inside of the boat. (Attached to the pump) if you do not do this first, you will forget and cause all kinds of problems for yourself!!!

2.) Remove the steering rod, 10mm bolt and nut.

3.) Remove 4 13mm bolts holding nozzle on. with this off you will have a much better view of the wear ring.

4.) Remove 4, 17mm bolts from the pump to hull. Make sure you pull off all the lock washers and washers to ease pulling the pump.

5.) This is the tricky part.... Most shops gob all kinds of silicon on when replacing the pump and so it makes it a pain to pull it away from the hull.
You need to pull the pump away from the hull as straight as possible.

They sell a pump removal tool but I just made my own. Cut a length of 2x4 that I set across the rear of the ski and drilled 2 holes in it. I thread long 13 mm bolts with washers through the top two holes of the pump where the nozzle mounts. This pulls it away nicely with a butterfly impact.

6.) Now you have your pump and impeller in your hands, the next step is to remove the 3 8mm bolts on the cone. Make sure you have something to catch the oil and nose plugs.... This stuff reeks to high heaven...

7.) After cleaning out the oil I place the pump impeller side up in a vice. (grabbing the flat end of the pump shaft in a vice)

8.) Place impeller removal tool in the impeller and grab a 1/2" drive 3/4 socket with a huge breaker bar. Twist it counterclockwise till it pops loose. (May take some pressure. I seriously use a 4 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and use a popping motion rather than smooth pressure.)

9.) Now that you have the impeller out take your new wear ring and put it in the freezer.

10.) You have to get the old wear ring out of the pump. (I have found the easiest way is to take a saws all and cut a slit in the wear ring the full length of the pump) Be careful only to cut the wear ring and not the pump.

11.) Take a large standard screwdriver and a hammer and tap the screwdriver gently between the wear ring and the pump all the way around to separate them.

12.) Clean all the white corrosion off the pump where you will be putting the new wear ring

13.) After tackling this task go to the freezer and grab that wear ring. (don’t dilly dally with it) get it to the garage and slide it in the pump. you may have to tap lightly with a rubber mallet. If it doesn’t slide in then you didn’t clean the pump good enough. Repeat steps 9 and 12.....

14.) Reinstall the impeller in the reverse order.

Note: it is very important not to pinch the thrust washer when re-installing the impellor shaft. That’s why it’s a good idea to do it in a vice rather than on the ground sideways.

Once the impellor is tight you should have 1/8 - 1/4 inch play in the shaft back and fourth. if you don’t start over and inspect your thrust washer you probably pinched it..

15) Inspect the rubber o ring and if it is good apply silicon and reinstall the cone. Make sure the allen fill plug is on top.

16) Lower the front of the ski and add oil to the cone. When it is full, take a brake and have a drink. There is air in the cone and when you go back you will see that it is low. Top it off and take another brake... do this until the fluid does not lower again. I often start the ski for a few seconds to make sure oil is all the way worked into the bearings and all the air is out.

17) wipe silicon on the set screw and screw it in (be sure not to run it all the way into the cone. just deeper than flush is fine. let it sit 24 hours to cure the silicon and put the nozzle back on.

18) Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyester Oil, or similar.
 

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Ok I took some PICS of the before after bucket mod. My GTX has the stock bucket, my RXT has the shaved bucket if you look closley you can see the difference between the two. With RXT there is no visable obstruction:
Thanks for the photos. Does shaving the reverse bucket affect the function of reverse?
 

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Very good info I'm gonna get on that bucket mod right away :) As for the sponsons I think you called them or whatever those are on the side, what function do they serve? As far as the wear ring Ill avoid the steel one i guess, but I think ill have it done. Ive never worked on a pwc before and I think id be getting in over my head on this one. Can you guys tell me how to check if the wear ring is bad? Keep in mind this is my firs pwc so im still learning what the terminology is and whats what. It feels kinda like a big stall in a muscle car, and if I punch it from a stop it bang the rev limiter for a sec, still goes though. I think ill have the seadoo shop take off the charger and ill bring them the riva rebuild kit. Should I just do that or have them pull it and send it to this green hulk guy? Shop charges 25 bucks more to rebuild then him but no shipping hassle. Does he do anything different? Thanks again for all the info, you guys have all been incredibly helpfull. Outlaw, do you have any vids of that monster in action?
To check the wear ring, start your seadoo in the middle of the lake and then proceed to give it WOT and if the motor revs without giving you the expected forward motion, your wear ring is FUCT :D No, actually, there is a way to check it with a feeler guauge and make sure there isn't more than 0.040 clearance between the impeller and the wear ring. You could have a mangled impeller too as your problem.

The sponsoons are a fin and when you turn it digs in and holds the turn preventing the rear end from skipping on the water and spinning the ski.

This guy says he can change a wear ring in about an hour!!!

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?30720-How-To-Changing-Your-Wear-Ring

This is how to pull your supercharger:
"How To" Removal of supercharger by Sean Coleman

DO IT! DO IT!
:rockin:
 

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There has to be a weak link in the chain. Either buy $63 rings or $300 props.
 

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Arctic, can you elaborate on your post?
If you feed some trash into the pump, something has to give. If the wear ring has no give in it the damage will happen to the prop.
 
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