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Is there a write up with pics anywhere on how exactly to do this bucket mod? I just dont want to loose reverse. The river has a nasty current by me and i use it a lot for loading and unloading it. But ill grind away for the 2mph. But mine just doesnt go anywhere out of the hole like it should I dont think, it just revs and hits the rev limiter then gets goin. Is this normal?

BTW Im planning on doing the riva stage 1 next month when I have the blower rebuilt and all that noise. Any other mods youd suggest why its off?
Ok I took some PICS of the before after bucket mod. My GTX has the stock bucket, my RXT has the shaved bucket if you look closley you can see the difference between the two. With RXT there is no visable obstruction:
 

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More Seadoo secrets

Ok my buddies are already giving me s&^t about giving out secrets, but oh well we are in DE/MD we won't run into them. So I guess now you can see the difference in not shaving your reverse bucket. It is good for 1-2 mph.

Next up low drag racing sponsons good for another 1-2 mph. You can also see where my opas system had been removed and blocked off for less friction and drag.
 

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Artic brings up a good point about the wear ring. If it is bad it will feel like an automatic transmisson slipping where the rpms increase but little forward motion. I have never worn out a wear ring yet, avoid shallow sandy areas.
 

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Great, how much is that going to cost on top of the 500 for the charger rebuild I should do soon since I just hit 88hrs on ceramic washers...cheaper to have it done while there takin the charger off? After looking at this thing I dnt feel comfortable working on it myself at this point...

You can get a stock plastic wear ring for $65 and a stainless riva one for $190. It sounds like it's a bitch to change but it you were going to do your RIVA stage one kit, you'd be into some of this stuff anyway. The only things you will be doing mechanically repetitive with the supercharger overhaul is taking the seat off. The good news is the supercharger rebuild is only $400 including labor and shipping back to you from Jerry @ green hulk forums.

This was from a user "kustomkarl" on the seadoo forums:

Replacing the wear ring

For starters....

1.) Remove the three hoses on the inside of the boat. (Attached to the pump) if you do not do this first, you will forget and cause all kinds of problems for yourself!!!

2.) Remove the steering rod, 10mm bolt and nut.

3.) Remove 4 13mm bolts holding nozzle on. with this off you will have a much better view of the wear ring.

4.) Remove 4, 17mm bolts from the pump to hull. Make sure you pull off all the lock washers and washers to ease pulling the pump.

5.) This is the tricky part.... Most shops gob all kinds of silicon on when replacing the pump and so it makes it a pain to pull it away from the hull.
You need to pull the pump away from the hull as straight as possible.

They sell a pump removal tool but I just made my own. Cut a length of 2x4 that I set across the rear of the ski and drilled 2 holes in it. I thread long 13 mm bolts with washers through the top two holes of the pump where the nozzle mounts. This pulls it away nicely with a butterfly impact.

6.) Now you have your pump and impeller in your hands, the next step is to remove the 3 8mm bolts on the cone. Make sure you have something to catch the oil and nose plugs.... This stuff reeks to high heaven...

7.) After cleaning out the oil I place the pump impeller side up in a vice. (grabbing the flat end of the pump shaft in a vice)

8.) Place impeller removal tool in the impeller and grab a 1/2" drive 3/4 socket with a huge breaker bar. Twist it counterclockwise till it pops loose. (May take some pressure. I seriously use a 4 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and use a popping motion rather than smooth pressure.)

9.) Now that you have the impeller out take your new wear ring and put it in the freezer.

10.) You have to get the old wear ring out of the pump. (I have found the easiest way is to take a saws all and cut a slit in the wear ring the full length of the pump) Be careful only to cut the wear ring and not the pump.

11.) Take a large standard screwdriver and a hammer and tap the screwdriver gently between the wear ring and the pump all the way around to separate them.

12.) Clean all the white corrosion off the pump where you will be putting the new wear ring

13.) After tackling this task go to the freezer and grab that wear ring. (don’t dilly dally with it) get it to the garage and slide it in the pump. you may have to tap lightly with a rubber mallet. If it doesn’t slide in then you didn’t clean the pump good enough. Repeat steps 9 and 12.....

14.) Reinstall the impeller in the reverse order.

Note: it is very important not to pinch the thrust washer when re-installing the impellor shaft. That’s why it’s a good idea to do it in a vice rather than on the ground sideways.

Once the impellor is tight you should have 1/8 - 1/4 inch play in the shaft back and fourth. if you don’t start over and inspect your thrust washer you probably pinched it..

15) Inspect the rubber o ring and if it is good apply silicon and reinstall the cone. Make sure the allen fill plug is on top.

16) Lower the front of the ski and add oil to the cone. When it is full, take a brake and have a drink. There is air in the cone and when you go back you will see that it is low. Top it off and take another brake... do this until the fluid does not lower again. I often start the ski for a few seconds to make sure oil is all the way worked into the bearings and all the air is out.

17) wipe silicon on the set screw and screw it in (be sure not to run it all the way into the cone. just deeper than flush is fine. let it sit 24 hours to cure the silicon and put the nozzle back on.

18) Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyester Oil, or similar.
 

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Ok I took some PICS of the before after bucket mod. My GTX has the stock bucket, my RXT has the shaved bucket if you look closley you can see the difference between the two. With RXT there is no visable obstruction:
Thanks for the photos. Does shaving the reverse bucket affect the function of reverse?
 

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Stay away from stainless wear rings, my buddy tried one and didn't like it, he said it was making noises. he switched back. This the guy that has the fastest ski in our crew, it is a 2004 RXP with the works, top speed 82-84 mph on GPS.

The email address that Artic referenced is my friend Jerry Gaddis . He owns the GREEN HULK FORUM and PWC PERFORMANCE, he knows his stuff , he personally help me dial in my RXT RIVA STAGE III kit and it is very fast, bring on the Kawasaki 300 X
 

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Thanks for the photos. Does shaving the reverse bucket affect the function of reverse?
You are only taking off appr 1/2" at the max apex of the curve then you taper it back to th sides. It backs up fine maybe you need slighlty more throttle in reverse. Remember that is a big reverse bucket, you are taking alittle of the bottom.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Very good info I'm gonna get on that bucket mod right away :) As for the sponsons I think you called them or whatever those are on the side, what function do they serve? As far as the wear ring Ill avoid the steel one i guess, but I think ill have it done. Ive never worked on a pwc before and I think id be getting in over my head on this one. Can you guys tell me how to check if the wear ring is bad? Keep in mind this is my firs pwc so im still learning what the terminology is and whats what. It feels kinda like a big stall in a muscle car, and if I punch it from a stop it bang the rev limiter for a sec, still goes though. I think ill have the seadoo shop take off the charger and ill bring them the riva rebuild kit. Should I just do that or have them pull it and send it to this green hulk guy? Shop charges 25 bucks more to rebuild then him but no shipping hassle. Does he do anything different? Thanks again for all the info, you guys have all been incredibly helpfull. Outlaw, do you have any vids of that monster in action?
 

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Very good info I'm gonna get on that bucket mod right away :) As for the sponsons I think you called them or whatever those are on the side, what function do they serve? As far as the wear ring Ill avoid the steel one i guess, but I think ill have it done. Ive never worked on a pwc before and I think id be getting in over my head on this one. Can you guys tell me how to check if the wear ring is bad? Keep in mind this is my firs pwc so im still learning what the terminology is and whats what. It feels kinda like a big stall in a muscle car, and if I punch it from a stop it bang the rev limiter for a sec, still goes though. I think ill have the seadoo shop take off the charger and ill bring them the riva rebuild kit. Should I just do that or have them pull it and send it to this green hulk guy? Shop charges 25 bucks more to rebuild then him but no shipping hassle. Does he do anything different? Thanks again for all the info, you guys have all been incredibly helpfull. Outlaw, do you have any vids of that monster in action?
To check the wear ring, start your seadoo in the middle of the lake and then proceed to give it WOT and if the motor revs without giving you the expected forward motion, your wear ring is FUCT :D No, actually, there is a way to check it with a feeler guauge and make sure there isn't more than 0.040 clearance between the impeller and the wear ring. You could have a mangled impeller too as your problem.

The sponsoons are a fin and when you turn it digs in and holds the turn preventing the rear end from skipping on the water and spinning the ski.

This guy says he can change a wear ring in about an hour!!!

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?30720-How-To-Changing-Your-Wear-Ring

This is how to pull your supercharger:
"How To" Removal of supercharger by Sean Coleman

DO IT! DO IT!
:rockin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
excellent info guys, very good. My next question, Would be more cost efficient to have the stage 1 kit installed when I do the SC rebuild and wear ring? Also is the Riva rebuild kit better then stock in any way or are they the same? As detailed as these write ups are, due to my current inexperience with pwc's and lack of free time really right now because of working 12hr days and im in the process of moving in a week or 2 I think im going to just let the seadoo shop do the rebuild. They said they can order and use the seadoo kit or I can bring them the Riva kit. If I have them do the wear ring at the same time would I save money having the stage 1 kit put in why there in there? I cant wait to feel the difference with all that plus this bucket mod :D

btw...I have managed to destroy everything ive raced so far except for this boat, thing had to be light as hell and shaped like a missle with a big block chevy in it open headers out the back and all, he managed to pull away a little even though the look on his face when he looked over and I was still almost next to him was priceless haha
Anyway another 1-2 mph and hes mine, should be amusing.
 

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From what I have been told the pump wedge kit for the RXP is to help the hull maintain a better angle out of the water in the bow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
From what I have been told the pump wedge kit for the RXP is to help the hull maintain a better angle out of the water in the bow.
Probably has an adverse effect for low speeds with the trim down then huh? BTW you have a PM Outlaw:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
To check the wear ring, start your seadoo in the middle of the lake and then proceed to give it WOT and if the motor revs without giving you the expected forward motion, your wear ring is FUCT :D No, actually, there is a way to check it with a feeler guauge and make sure there isn't more than 0.040 clearance between the impeller and the wear ring. You could have a mangled impeller too as your problem.

The sponsoons are a fin and when you turn it digs in and holds the turn preventing the rear end from skipping on the water and spinning the ski.

This guy says he can change a wear ring in about an hour!!!

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?30720-How-To-Changing-Your-Wear-Ring

This is how to pull your supercharger:
"How To" Removal of supercharger by Sean Coleman

DO IT! DO IT!
:rockin:
Could a few tiny and I mean tiny nicks or dings on the impeller cause any of the issues? I'm really wanting a better hole shot. We been having a lot of crap in the river here lately, been getting sh*t in the grate almost everytime im out. Really getting annoying. Lasr time it was some piece of garbage. Got loged between the front ans back of the impeller blates around the outer edge. Had to remove the grate and take channel locks to it just to get it out. Any tricks to keepin that crap out? I do my best to avoid that stuff but sometimes I swear it swims up under my ski:mad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
either your wear ring around the impeller is toast or you have some garbage lodged in the pump somewhere if you're hitting the rev limiter on your take-offs. Sadly I'm betting it's the wear ring. My ski will launch hard from a stand still. You have to also be losing top speed with that issue
Well got the SC rebuild done and did the steel clutch washers too. Found out my wear ring is JUNK, pretty bad too. Went to Riva's site and cant find the wear rings now. Met 2 guys out here running the steel ones with no problems at all. As much crap as there is floating around out here I think Im gonna give the steel one a shot. Dont want to be redoing it again in a month. Anyone got a link? Found one for 140 on ebay not sure who makes it though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
What's better about the new design? Still soft plastic that gets dinged up and wrecked right? I ride in the rivers out here. They all have debris in them some worse the others. Barely one day goes by without something getting sucked into my grate. Mostly sticks lately but the last time was a peice of a freakin plastic pop bottle. Got lodged betweed the blades and the ring. Tore it all to hell and broke one of the "sharks teeth". I do not want to be doing this 3x a year. Do you guys really think the new design can take that abuse? There's a few ppl out here with the steal riva one and have no complaints. Is there a down side to it?
 
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