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I’ve ridden a ton of jet skis. Had a pair of super charged and just plain 1.8. 53 mph vs 65 not that big a deal but is for gas holy hell. I just bought a pair or VX limited. Previous years they are 50+ Mph. The main difference is you can go to HO fx 1.8 but GPH is going to murder you. I’m in TN and 8~15 gallons per hour is no joke. That’s for the 1000cc vx limited. For a SC you’ll go 15~25 per hour wide open throttle. 3$ a gallon x 36 every couple hours you’ll be glad. Consider cost of ski, plus storage. Mine are in my garage but some people waste money paying storage fees. Insurance, deductible, etc. travel time to water. I’m 1.5 hours at most for several dams, and 15 minutes from a very lake. HIGH cost at beginning, 10 hour break in then 10 hour tune up. Break them in between now and early spring! 10 hours is a long ass time on the water, so break them in early. It’s your payment + 100 a month in season+ gas, 600-1200 for service each year. Still with me? Good, they are super fun and my family loved it. 2 kids 6/8 girl/boy. you are going to love them! I bought mine, also a new ram truck so it’s pricey as hell. But my kids won’t be small forever and I want to make good memories with them. Yes, I started negative but I feel you really should be aware of what you are getting into before hand. Gas is 2. 25 gallon in season, 2.02 right now. In CA it was 3.75!!!!! Ouchy! -Nick
 

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That’s a gr
alright,
so today I finally closed a deal on a 2020 Yamaha Waverunners FX LIMITED SVHO.
I did a lot of thinking to see which model would be best for me and I decided to go with this model. I am planning to keep this for the next few years.
so I went to New York City Boat show and on Yamaha section I started to talk to the dealers and got the below deal on the machine.

original MSRP for the FX SVHO Limited is $17,599
and Karavan SINGLE WATERCRAFT ALUMINUM TRAILER $1,199

I paid a flat $18,000 on it including Freight, Prep fee, DMV fee for watercraft, DMV fee for trailer and tax.
please let me know what you think and let me know if I got a good deal or not. I feel like I got a good deal tho lol
That a great deal. January is prime time for buying and deals are harder to come by. I bought 2x vex limited for 23500 all in after tax. Got triton elite trailer for 2200 xc2.
 

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That’s a gr


That a great deal. January is prime time for buying and deals are harder to come by. I bought 2x vex limited for 23500 all in after tax. Got triton elite trailer for 2200 xc2.
Thats a good deal too,
yeah man, Jan is the best time to buy especially from boat show prices.
 

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Yep! I was looking at GPH and vx limited hovers around 8 GPH vs 15~25 on super charged svho was like nah I don’t want to spend 75$ an hour in gas. 53 is plenty fast for me. They top out @ 52-53, still in break in period says full speed not more than 5 mins, so been doino 3 to 53 randomly for another 6 hours to go! Breaking in is a pain but you get to cruise around yay.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I feel like I owe a quick status report here.
Last week I bought 2020 FX Cruiser HO in blue, on 2018 (new) Triton trailer, with OEM cover, no extra warranty $15700 OTD at closest to my home official waverunner dealer. Pretty sure I could do better than that. But I was worn out by thinking over and over it for last few months. If only I could wait till fall.... or willing to go 3.5 hours one way to a dealer who had 2019 FX Cruiser HO still in crate... But what is done, done. I think, buying from local dealer let's me establish hopefully longterm relationship for services and so forth
 

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Anechets,
Cool, the hard part is over. Now hit the water and enjoy. Ride easy for a bit, follow the break in, and get serviced in 10 hrs
Agreed sometimes paying a bit more and having service near you is worth the extra bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Dave in DE, thank you!
I already took it to Lake Lanier two times and carefully broke it in. She runs very fast and make me smile just recalling the ride.

One thing bugging me is that I am not sure my dealer set up trailer properly. Bunks' feet have some range - they can go wider and anrrower and 3 of them were set the same and on was in its lowest/narrowest position. Making my PWC sitting a bit of center and at the angle. I put the foot symmetrically with the other side but now I doubt if my dealer really fine tuned the trailer for my specific model. Is there a written official reommendations from Yamaha on how their products should be secured on trailers. I didn't find anything like that online or on their site. In fact, they don't even have a customer service email or form to contact them with the question. Thinks in doubt:
1. If this model of trailer actually designed to carry the weight and dimensions of my PWC
2. If the winch and the stop are adjusted the forward/backward to ensure right amount of weight distribution between the excel and the tong.
3. it the height of of the stopping roller is right (now it is pushing against horizontal rib and it doesn't look proper)
4. if the the bunks are at the optimal distance from each other. I think the wider they are spread, the more stable the PWC on the trailer is.
18425
18427
 

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Ok, your trailer can handle the ski and then some. Your ski weights roughly 850 pounds. The trailer can handle twice that.
You want your bunks as wide as possible, getting the ski as low as possible. As well as flat on the hull, off the ribs on the hull bottom. But you also need to make sure to keep enough hight for the front (bow) of the ski the clear the cross frame when loading/unloading.
Once the bunks are set you'll need to set your trailer tongue weight. You want 10/15% of your ski weight. Roughly 100/115 pounds. Set the trailer tongue lift/roller on a bathroom scale and adjust to level trailer. Now move the ski forward and rearward on the bunks till you have correct weight on the scale. This is now the place it should set when against the winch roller. You can move the ski for/aft inside of your weight range to get the rear tie straps nearer to vertical as well. You may need to move the winch to get your weight correct. BECARFULL MOVING SKI REARWARD. IF IT GOES TO FAR THE NOSE WILL TIP UP AND DUMP SKI ON THE GROUND.
The bow roller and winch I'd readjust to put the roller up snug under the bump rail.
As for strapping it down. the rear of your ski has a tie loop on either rear corner. Find a solid location on the trailer to hook the other end of your strap. It appears Triton has loops for hooking to. You should be pulling mainly downward not a lot of angle forward or rearward (10/15 degrees). I cross my rear straps. From left side of ski to right side of trailer. This helps keep the ski from shifting left and right on the bunks. Some also add an additional strap at the bow hook to support the winch in case the latch fails. I do for long trips.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Dave in DE
Thank you for your advice. I started adjustments by putting bunks as far apart as I could and even a bit extra. Still they are not far enough to support flat areas of the bottom and one strake (ridge) is now sitting on top of the bunk. I am pissed at myself and the dealer. He wanted to sell me the galvanized trailer and hinted that I am the only one ever who asked for aluminum. How can THAT be fixed? Re-weld the rails holding hinges holding bunks? Re-screw bunks off center to hinges to gain another inch or two?
So, for now I got 5 hours on my Runner and once I get another 5, I will go back for maintenance and that is when I will try to address the issues....
 

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Discussion Starter #34
GPS solution is the next thing on my list. Cellphone, old decommissioned cellphone or some real GPS unit?
I don't want to pay more than $200. I want it to work all day, I don't want to drill my PWC and attach wires. I want maps of lakes, rivers and inter coastal water ways and some miles out to the Atlantic and gulf of Mexico with nav. aids and depths, ship wrecks, marinas gas stations and restaurants and boat ramps. It would be nice if it had the ability to do "driving directions" and reflect my position relative to the course.

Next thing is mounting. This RAM mount looks pretty solid. But I am confused what components I need.
My phone is Galaxy s10. Costco GPS MAP64 may be not the best choice functionally but no brainer for the great costco return policy.

Also I am taking my Runner to the salt water for the first time. Any prep. I should do to it?

Skiing or boarding behind is something my family wants to try. Any advice on "starter kit"

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Flushing the engine with water hose seems to me a bit risky... Yesterday I took my WR to Cedar Key in FL staight to Gulf of Mexico. Paid $16 for putting in but the place doesn't have a hose with fresh water. So I played smart... I think. - I took it and put in my ski in Krystal river (fresh water 1 hour away from Cedar Key) and ran for a while there too. So, do I need to flush with the hose after all?
 

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Discussion Starter #36
On the note of GPS:
I bought at Costco GPSMAP64. Even though it is meant for land, it is water proof. Better then cell because it runs all day on batteries and if you have spare, you are good to go right away. I loaded free topo maps from internet, bought RAM mounting and it works like magic... Unfortunately it is not capable of building automatic routes except "direct" and has no nav aids. But it does the job. if anyone has some way of sharing map with nav. aids for FL, GA, AL, SC, NC coastal and rivers and lakes, I'd appreciate. If someone needs step by step, let me know.
 

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Flushing the engine with water hose seems to me a bit risky... Yesterday I took my WR to Cedar Key in FL staight to Gulf of Mexico. Paid $16 for putting in but the place doesn't have a hose with fresh water. So I played smart... I think. - I took it and put in my ski in Krystal river (fresh water 1 hour away from Cedar Key) and ran for a while there too. So, do I need to flush with the hose after all?
I have a pair of vx limited Yamahas 2020s. Fresh water here in TN is still full of sediment, particles, etc. On amazon there is a little valve you can put on the hose that’s made of brass. Allows water to be on and you can turn valve on and off without running back and forth to turn off hose. I flush mine everytime, it’s super easy with the valve. Turn on, turn valve on rev A bit and couple minutes done for one. With that said, fresh is 1000% better than salt. I’ve gone a few times without flushing, only because I was going out the next day again. No way can you not flush after salt, that’s asking for trouble if it’s sitting out in the air oxidizing :)

The KEY here is to turn on motor first, water second, and then water off then motor. Do that and you’ll be fine.
 

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Flushing the engine with water hose seems to me a bit risky... Yesterday I took my WR to Cedar Key in FL staight to Gulf of Mexico. Paid $16 for putting in but the place doesn't have a hose with fresh water. So I played smart... I think. - I took it and put in my ski in Krystal river (fresh water 1 hour away from Cedar Key) and ran for a while there too. So, do I need to flush with the hose after all?
Running it in fresh water after is a big help but does not nuetralize the salts that attach to the metal. You need to still flush with either "salt away", or "salt Terminator" to nuetralize the salt or you'll have major corrosion problems in a few short yrs.

As nick5000 stated, putting a valve on the end of the hose makes flushing very easy as all the controls is right there at the ski.
Start ski, start water, idle it up a few times while water runs. After 5/6 minutes turn off water. rev the motor a couple times and shut ski off. Can do it all standing right there at the ski. Running in salt water you want to spray some of the salt away around the inside of the hull as well and the trailer too. Then rinse them off with water. This will help with corrosion on the trailer and inside the hull.
 

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I had Pole Skis for over 30 years always mainly salt running and not once did I ever use Salt away or any neutralising agents, just a good flush after use, never had any corrosion problems, I found sand to be more of an issue then salt ever was as running close to the shore allowed sand to build up in the water paths.
Only just started using Salt away the last two years on my 2008 Yamaha FX-SHO, I get it serviced every 50 hours and to date no problems with corrosion.
I think the problem people have is not flushing correctly or with enough pressure, most people don't have very good water pressure and also don't flush correctly or long enough.
Most people also don't realise how much water pressure the jet supplies to the engine, a good run in fresh water and there wouldn't be any salt left behind.
For those with low water pressure or no fresh water rivers or lakes nearby then a neutraliser added to the flush will help, if they don't flush every time or just do a quick flush as most people these days are pretty lazy and won't spend an hour cleaning their Ski after a day or week end out and will leave it for tomorrow or when they get the chance.
I know if I left the flush and clean up to my Son and his mates, it would get done maybe if lucky the morning that we go out again a week later :), they would say of course they did it but if lucky the Ski would get a quick outer wash to remove the salt build up at most.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Gardum, thanks...
more questions...
I need to do 50-hour maintenance on my 2020 WR FX HO. Mountain Motorsports, (local dealer where I bought it) wants $400. ... seems a bit expensive for an oil change. on the other hand, I'd rather pay for a piece of mind.... Are there independent shops doing good job for a lot less? Or should I buy an oil change kit and do it myself?
 
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