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Discussion Starter #1
So I've become tired of my jet ski getting made fun of just because it's pink and purple (the red has sunfaded enough to where I call it pink) and I've decided to do something about it. I've never done any kind of vehicle painting, stenciling, and my spray painting experience has been limited to a single computer case mod...6 years ago.

Naturally, instead of asking advice, I dreamed up some random design and simply dove in. Now, before you let me have it when you see how I'm doing the painting, keep in mind, that my spray paint skills are extremely limited, so the techniques I'm using are really just meant to minimize the visibility of my screw-ups.

Behold, the most tedious method for masking...employed on a full PWC scale!









Clearly I'm not finished yet. The paint fades from cherry red in the front to bright orange in the middle to yellow at the back. I'm planning on cutting designs like the bio hazard symbol into the masking (painters) tape as well as flames (you can see the marker drawing).

Feel free to rip on me for the idea of wrapping the whole thing in painter's tape, but when you do, also let me know how a spaz like myself can do this more easily next time while keeping the paint job clean.

Jebrew
 

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lol thats a lot of tape you can use tape at the edge then garbage bags or some material in between. the stuff they use when building a house in between the wood and siding works too
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cutting the tape

So I got to start cutting the flames and did one of the more complicated stencils last night. Have a look:




So it's not the best looking flame job on a ski...but for a first timer it's not bad right?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
A little ameturish

So I'm mostly done. All I have left is to wetsand it to take the edge off the details and apply the clear coats. The failure of the undercoating, while tragic, only takes a little away from the final job. Up close, the flames are a bit 'furry' due to the paint that overlapped the cutout details pulling unevenly (guess that's what I get for going with a generic brand paint).

All things considered, I think it's a pretty good job for my first ever paint job. And for those interested, here's the rundown on what was used and how much it cost:
Orbital hand sander: $10 (Harbor Freight tools is awesome!)
1500W Heat gun: $10 (HF again)
Plastic primer (clear): $4 (Lowes...only bought 1 can, would use 2 next time)
Red spray paint: $3
Orange spray paint: $3
Yellow spray paint: $3
'automotive' black spray paint (2 cans): $4/ea, $8 total
3 rolls of 'clean release' painter's tape (Duct works best, 3M was too adhesive): $12
56-piece knife set (for details...only had a box cutter for the biohazard): $7

Total cost so far: $60
To finish it, I finally cowboyed up and got some decent stuff.
'SUV' top coat finish: $6/can (2)
1000 grit wetsanding paper: $4 (3M)
Rubber sanding block: $4

So when I'm done, total cost is ~$74









Jebrew
 

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so how did it end up looking after you wetsanded and put some clearcoat on it? You never did update with the new pics. Looks pretty sweet though
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Sanding and clear coat

The wet sanding went well. I found the sanding block to be mostly useless.

I put on two coats of the 'SUV' clear paint and then sanded it. For the most part it had little effect on the overall appearance, but there were a couple places where I got it right and it's extremely shiny and looks awesome...on those roughly 4 square inches. Later I tried adding silver stenciled numbering for the registration, but they wore out quickly and I sanded them off after a couple weeks.

Going to try to repaint it this fall/winter. Haven't decided on a design just yet, but I think I'll go with something a little less busy.


 

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Overall...I am impressed knowing what materials went into the whole job...You said that you were going to repaint it this winter? I have painted several ski's in the past few years and it costs a little bit more but I found that single stage automotive paint seems to lay the best and makes an awesome finish on ski's. Down side is, since it is single stage, you cant wetsand it like you can on base coat/clear coat. The next one I do, I am going to go with the base coat/clear coat...atleast with base/clear you can wetsand the trash out and buff it. I am also impressed with your artistic abilities...wish I could draw like that, if you lived closer to VA, I would give you a job in my company...lol:appl:
 

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Also, what year WaveRaider is that...I can get you a HydroTurf seat cover and HydroTurf ridemats if you are interested...Just need to know what year it is
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Also, what year WaveRaider is that...I can get you a HydroTurf seat cover and HydroTurf ridemats if you are interested...Just need to know what year it is
It's a '96. I was thinking of trying my hand at upholstery. For the first go 'round, I was thinking I'd do it the way I did the paint: cheap. Get some knock off GorTex material or if I can find some cheap neoprene (good luck right?), then I'll use that. So far I've been hesitant to try it mostly because of the number of staples involved (current cover has several hundred on the underside). I think I'd rather hem it and have a draw-string to tighten down the cover. That way if I need to wash it, I can just take it off.

I'm glad you like my work, I seem to get a lot of flak for it around here sometimes! All in good fun though. Maybe I'll try making the undercoat a mirror finish chrome for the next one...just to drive my co-workers insane. :D
 

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It's a '96. I was thinking of trying my hand at upholstery. For the first go 'round, I was thinking I'd do it the way I did the paint: cheap. Get some knock off GorTex material or if I can find some cheap neoprene (good luck right?), then I'll use that. So far I've been hesitant to try it mostly because of the number of staples involved (current cover has several hundred on the underside). I think I'd rather hem it and have a draw-string to tighten down the cover. That way if I need to wash it, I can just take it off.

I'm glad you like my work, I seem to get a lot of flak for it around here sometimes! All in good fun though. Maybe I'll try making the undercoat a mirror finish chrome for the next one...just to drive my co-workers insane. :D
The upholstery isnt too hard to do, but the biggest problem with a drawstring style seat cover would be it slipping around while you ride...the seat cover is only 90 bucks and the ride mats are 85 bucks...the ride mats are sweet and give huge traction while your riding...here is a pic of what the mat looks like on a Wave Blaster...and they also make many different colors too.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah, I should have replaced the mats in the foot wells right after painting...I've been using sandals or 5-finger shoes when riding to get the grip back. After my next repaint I'm going to put in some mats. I've got the ones out of my co-worker's old ski...a little ghetto, but it should look fine. The stock ones were basically grip tape from a skateboard, so anything is an improvement!
 
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