I recall being advised not to use these in PWC's. Any particular reason? I have an 02 xlt 1200 that is having acceleration issues, and wont go over 35. Carbs were cleaned last year...wondering if I should try these or replace the fuel filter? Any advice? BTW, since the carbs were cleanded last year have about 5 hours on it. Ran great last year, not this year.
Is it a good idea to use carb cleaners?
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after reading many posts, im starting to think its an oil issue. oil gauge says 2/3 full, but looks like very little in tank. sounds like a common issue on these models. was vrunning very smokey today, plus after warmed up lost power big time...could only do like 5mph back to the dock
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try doing a compression test- let me know what it comes up with-
speedfreak....i'm a noob. i dont even know how to check the compression. what do i need?
extremely frustrated...i spend more time trying to figure whats wrong with the than riding it.
also i noticed a little bit of water in the bildge....never had that before
extremely frustrated...i spend more time trying to figure whats wrong with the than riding it.
also i noticed a little bit of water in the bildge....never had that before
Carbs and fuel filters are finicky beasts. A clean carb can get gummed up in short order if gas is allowed to sit in it. Changing the fuel filter is an easy and cheap attempt at a fix. You might luck out and have a clogged filter restricting fuel flow.
Spray cleaners down the carb generally can only hit the orifices in the carb throat. Once in a while they have worked for me. Usually on 3 and 4 hp mower engines. I did have a motor recently where the gas had evaporated in the carb of a 2-stroke outboard to leave a heavy coating of oil in the carbs causing a rough running engine. Spray cleaner did help that motor.
'In-Tank' Fuel system cleaners have bit me in the past by loosening up everything in the fuel system (Tank, lines, fuel bowls) and clogging the carb jets (and taking out the in-tank fuel pump on a car). My local mechanic bitches about modern fuels older than 30 days old not being too stable and the problems that older fuel can create. A good habit is to put fuel stabilizer in keep the gunk from forming, and sticking and clogging the carb orifices, as well as preventing water from accumulating in the gas. And running the carbs dry after every use helps prevent gunk in the carbs.
You could have a sensor issue. The gauge apparently says you have more oil than you actually see in the tank. My ski and 3 2-stroke Japanese outboards will limit the rpms if the oil supply is anything less than 25% Full. What's odd is that the gauge and the limiter should be using the same source (oil float). Maybe the ski is in a limit mode and the display has an issue? A quick test would be to fill the oil tank to see if you suddenly get power back. You do need to determine why you are getting different readings from the dash indicator than what you are seeing.
Speadfreak99 recommends doing a compression check. That is to determine if you've lost compression on one or more cylinders. A bad sensor could contribute to the motor running lean on oil, causing ring, cylinder, and/or piston damage in one or more cylinders. You can get a compression gauge that screws into the spark plug hole from most auto part stores. You can Google how to use it pretty easily too. In short, once you get your compression numbers, they should be consistent across all cylinders. Compare that number to the manufacturer's numbers. They should be pretty close. If one cylinder is drastically and consistently different and is much lower, that indicates a mechanical failure. Next stop is the shop.
Water in the bilge can be anything. Loose or bad hull plug seals, leaking hoses, etc.
As always, I defer to the more experienced posters on this board. They know best. My experience is generally based in a variety of 2 stroke and 4 stroke applications in other types of machines.
Good luck,
Greg
Spray cleaners down the carb generally can only hit the orifices in the carb throat. Once in a while they have worked for me. Usually on 3 and 4 hp mower engines. I did have a motor recently where the gas had evaporated in the carb of a 2-stroke outboard to leave a heavy coating of oil in the carbs causing a rough running engine. Spray cleaner did help that motor.
'In-Tank' Fuel system cleaners have bit me in the past by loosening up everything in the fuel system (Tank, lines, fuel bowls) and clogging the carb jets (and taking out the in-tank fuel pump on a car). My local mechanic bitches about modern fuels older than 30 days old not being too stable and the problems that older fuel can create. A good habit is to put fuel stabilizer in keep the gunk from forming, and sticking and clogging the carb orifices, as well as preventing water from accumulating in the gas. And running the carbs dry after every use helps prevent gunk in the carbs.
You could have a sensor issue. The gauge apparently says you have more oil than you actually see in the tank. My ski and 3 2-stroke Japanese outboards will limit the rpms if the oil supply is anything less than 25% Full. What's odd is that the gauge and the limiter should be using the same source (oil float). Maybe the ski is in a limit mode and the display has an issue? A quick test would be to fill the oil tank to see if you suddenly get power back. You do need to determine why you are getting different readings from the dash indicator than what you are seeing.
Speadfreak99 recommends doing a compression check. That is to determine if you've lost compression on one or more cylinders. A bad sensor could contribute to the motor running lean on oil, causing ring, cylinder, and/or piston damage in one or more cylinders. You can get a compression gauge that screws into the spark plug hole from most auto part stores. You can Google how to use it pretty easily too. In short, once you get your compression numbers, they should be consistent across all cylinders. Compare that number to the manufacturer's numbers. They should be pretty close. If one cylinder is drastically and consistently different and is much lower, that indicates a mechanical failure. Next stop is the shop.
Water in the bilge can be anything. Loose or bad hull plug seals, leaking hoses, etc.
As always, I defer to the more experienced posters on this board. They know best. My experience is generally based in a variety of 2 stroke and 4 stroke applications in other types of machines.
Good luck,
Greg
thanks for the advice
i will def add more oil. I noticed very low, but the gauge said 2/3 full. I cannot really see the bottom of the tank, so i figured there was more to it. then I read on here someone ran out of oil while the gauge (same model xlt 1200) said 2/3 full.
i might try some in tank carb cleaner. the compression test i will try as well. i dont mind doing the work and learning as i go.
question (again) i add stabilizer when i winterize, is it ok or a good idea to add even when using the ski? or soley for winterization?
i will def add more oil. I noticed very low, but the gauge said 2/3 full. I cannot really see the bottom of the tank, so i figured there was more to it. then I read on here someone ran out of oil while the gauge (same model xlt 1200) said 2/3 full.
i might try some in tank carb cleaner. the compression test i will try as well. i dont mind doing the work and learning as i go.
question (again) i add stabilizer when i winterize, is it ok or a good idea to add even when using the ski? or soley for winterization?
Personally, I try to add the stabilizer with each fill-up. My schedule is so hectic that I might want to use the ski or boat within a week or two, and then six months goes by. I just find that I have fewer fuel related problems when I'm diligent with the stabilizer. Last year, I wasn't so much and I have rebuilt 5 carburaters in the last 6 weeks. I live on the coast in a high humidity area so water in the fuel is a constant battle for us, whether it comes with the fuel or through condensation.
With regard to the in tank fuel system cleaner, I haven't had good luck. There may be modern formulations. If you have a dealer, they might be able to recommend something.
As to draining the carbs, I was referring to shutting the fuel off and letting the ski run out. Its a trick doing that and getting the wateer out of the ski. I wait for the motor to start stumbling, turn the water off, and then gun it for 10 or 15 seconds to get the water out and the fuel in the carbs. That should be good enough.
As to draining the carbs, I was referring to shutting the fuel off and letting the ski run out. Its a trick doing that and getting the wateer out of the ski. I wait for the motor to start stumbling, turn the water off, and then gun it for 10 or 15 seconds to get the water out and the fuel in the carbs. That should be good enough.
youdog...here is an update
I added oil, and even some stabilizer to the fuel.
took it out an ran great for 20 mins....had it up to 40 in rough water with more to go on the throttle..... then wouldnt go over 30-35mph. You can even hear a difference like the exhaust gets louder...
Can it be the carbs? like i said, these were cleaned last year for $1000. plus why would it run great twice...and then slow down after 20 mins? It seems to slow after warming up? Any help is appreciated.
I added oil, and even some stabilizer to the fuel.
took it out an ran great for 20 mins....had it up to 40 in rough water with more to go on the throttle..... then wouldnt go over 30-35mph. You can even hear a difference like the exhaust gets louder...
Can it be the carbs? like i said, these were cleaned last year for $1000. plus why would it run great twice...and then slow down after 20 mins? It seems to slow after warming up? Any help is appreciated.
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