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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, new to PWC form. I have a problem with a 2003 Sea-doo GTI-LE-RFI I need help with. Ski run well when taken out of the water last fall, winterized and plugs cleaned. New battery this week. Ski will not turn over with the spark plugs in. With one plug out, turns over good and will fire and run a few strokes.
Acts like a vapor lock. Any suggestions will be helpful. Thanks
 

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I have to ask some stupid questions, but need to rule things out. How long did you charge the battery for ? How old are the plugs ? I recommend a new set at the start of each season. If you install the plug in the other cyl, will it fire ? Have you cranked the engine for any longer than 10 seconds ? What was the condition of the fuel before you added fresh, and what did you use to stabilize it ?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No such thing as a stupid question. Battery was charged for 2 to 3 hours @ 2 amps and the charger showed a full charge. Battery now shows 12.69 volts. Plugs are cleaned and gapped but they are at least 2 years old. With the plug out of the front cylinder, the engine will fire and run a couple of seconds. With the plug out of the rear cylinder it will not turn over at all. The engine has not been cranked over 10 seconds, with the front plug out it fires immediately and will not turn over at all with the rear plug out. The remaining fuel from last year was no ethanol fuel and STA-Bil fuel stabilizer was used. There has been no fresh fuel added this year.
 

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Did you let it rest overnight after filling it ? Need more charge time on the battery. I normally charge a fresh battery for about 5 hours total. Charge for a couple, let it rest for a hour or so, repeat. This way the battery doesn't get to hot. Just for giggles, do a compression check. These engines are designed that they crank over faster with both plugs in. I'm really leaning that there is still not enough amps getting to the system. You can show proper voltage, but amps is what turns things. Might take the battery back, and ask them to test it. They will put a load test on it. Check all you connections all the way to the starter, and make sure the gound is clean at the engine. Might even make sure the starter is tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Installed new spark plugs, charged battery for additional one and a half hrs., It then checked 12.72 volts, put load tester on it and it shows 10.5 volts, (weak), Did compression check with both spark plugs out, Front cylinder 280 psi, back cylinder 145 psi, With back spark plug in, Front cylinder 300 psi, With front spark plug in, will not turn over. Engine will not crank thru any time the front spark plug is in the cylinder. Going to return battery tomorrow.
 

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Way to high. Should be 145. Let me do some research. I'm thinking there may be a problem with the rotary valve, but don't quote me on that yet.
 

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We're still trying to figure this one out. Have you noticed if the exhaust pulses for each cyl ? I have three theories in mind right now, and they are all far fetched, but one sounds almost logical do to you first post.
1) There is a exhaust obstruction somewhere. This one explains why it will only run for a second, due to the back pressure, but if it is blocking the whole system, it should affect both cyl's.
2) A exhaust obstruction in the manifold of that cyl, whether it be the rav valve has dropped, or something else.
3) (this on is so far fetched, I'm not sure I should post it, but makes sense to the high cyl pressure). A wasp or something has gotten it's way all the way to the cyl, and built a nest on the head, reducing the chamber size, effectively raising the cyl pressure. Go ahead laugh, I am !! lol
Lets do some searching here. Take a piece of wire, bend a L into it about 3/4" log, and insert it into the plug hole, spin it with it scrubbing the combustion chamber and take it out. Looking for grease or any other substance. Take a pen light and look down into the cyl and see if you see anything on top of the piston, other than carbon. If you happen to know someone with a small scope camera, see if they will let you use it. Put the piston at bottom dead center when doing this, so you can see into the exhaust ports.
If the cyl, piston, and chamber are all clean, pull the rav valve covers, and make sure they have not by chance dropped, or are stuck.
You might even crack the exhaust system at a joint, and see if you can blow though it (to the back of the ski) with a compressor.
I'll keep drilling my brain, and see what I can dig up.
 

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We're still trying to figure this one out. Have you noticed if the exhaust pulses for each cyl ? I have three theories in mind right now, and they are all far fetched, but one sounds almost logical do to you first post.
1) There is a exhaust obstruction somewhere. This one explains why it will only run for a second, due to the back pressure, but if it is blocking the whole system, it should affect both cyl's.
2) A exhaust obstruction in the manifold of that cyl, whether it be the rav valve has dropped, or something else.
3) (this on is so far fetched, I'm not sure I should post it, but makes sense to the high cyl pressure). A wasp or something has gotten it's way all the way to the cyl, and built a nest on the head, reducing the chamber size, effectively raising the cyl pressure. Go ahead laugh, I am !! lol
Lets do some searching here. Take a piece of wire, bend a L into it about 3/4" log, and insert it into the plug hole, spin it with it scrubbing the combustion chamber and take it out. Looking for grease or any other substance. Take a pen light and look down into the cyl and see if you see anything on top of the piston, other than carbon. If you happen to know someone with a small scope camera, see if they will let you use it. Put the piston at bottom dead center when doing this, so you can see into the exhaust ports.
If the cyl, piston, and chamber are all clean, pull the rav valve covers, and make sure they have not by chance dropped, or are stuck.
You might even crack the exhaust system at a joint, and see if you can blow though it (to the back of the ski) with a compressor.
I'll keep drilling my brain, and see what I can dig up.
 

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Have a tiger sharkk 1999 1100 just out of winter storeage ran fine last season, engine will not crank if any or all the 3 plugs are in... battery is good plugs appear wet, starter runs fine without plugs.. could it be a weak starter? could be same problem your other reader is..
 

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Have you had the batter load tested, or just going off the 12.5 volt reading ? Voltage reading is a false sense of security.
 

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found the problem of not starting with plugs in, the starter ran fine without plugs in and the problem was in the starter, it was not strong enough to turn the engine over with compression, replaced the starter and engine ran fine....
 
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