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Discussion Starter #1
I recently purchased a non-running 1100 STX DI and I need a copy of the 57001-1461 diagnostic software. Anybody know where I can get a copy of it?
Thanks,
willno
 

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I downloaded a copy somewhere, but I'll have to hunt. All the components can be checked with a ohm/volt meter. If all are good, prob. the emm. First one to check is the crank sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply and the info. If you can find out where you down loaded the software, that would be great. By the way, does it run OK on newer versions of Windows?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just ordered a new battery and haven't received it yet. I'll keep you posted.
What's the best way to check the 45V injectors?
 

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Check it at the injector itself, but keep the harness plugged into the injector. If you take a small piece of wire (like 20ga), strip off about 1/2" of sheathing, twist and solder it, it makes for a nice probe that you can get past the water tight seal with.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sorry I'm new to this DI stuff. Ok, and then I'm looking for the 45Vs with the probe when I crank the motor over? Is that what you mean?
 

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Yes. You will hook the ground of the meter to the battery, probe the positive at the injector and measure the cranking voltage. The reason you want that high voltage is that the injectors actually produce the high fuel pressure, not the pump. The pump just keeps then supplied, unlike a automotive system where the pump provides the pressure. If the running pressure is low, it will create a lean condition.

The big problem with the 1100Di's is that the cooling for the emm gets restricted by corrosion and overheats the emm frying it. If it runs, the first thing you need to do, if it hasn't already been done, is the cooling mod, and pull the cooling cover off the stator cover and clean it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've heard of the cooling mode. Is that in the manual? If not where can I find instructions for it?
Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just got the battery in and checked the compression today. I found 60 psi on cylinder 1, 140 on cylinder 2 and 180 on cylinder 3. Checking the plugs, it appears that cylinder 3 has not been firing and it was full of oil. Thant may explain the high reading on 3 but cylinder 1 obviously has a problem. I'm trying to decide if the old ski is worth fixing up.
Question: Is it OK to bore cylinder one to first or second oversize to repair damage without boring the other two? If not is it OK to re-sleeve cylinder 1 and go back to the original piston size with out doing anything to the other two?
Thanks,
willno
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just got the battery in and it's not good. Ran a compression check and found 60 psi on cylinder 1, 140 psi on cylinder 2 and 170 on cylinder 3. Plugs look like #3 hasn't been firing at all and full of oil. Probably why compression is high there but #1 definitely has problems. I checked the spark and I got a visible spark at all three. I checked the injectors and all three had 20V when cranking. don't mind rebuilding the motor but I'm concerned that the EMM may have problems. Is there any way to check that? I found a copy of the KADIAG software but I don't have anything that will run it anymore. Any advice?

Thanks,
willno
 

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Looks like your good emm wise. Cranking voltage is 20v, running voltage is 45.
Make sure the injectors stay on the cyl they are on. There is info in the emm that is related to that injector. If your going to take them off the head, make sure you label them.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the advice. Glad to hear you think the EMM is good. I guess I'll have to pull the motor for the rebuild or can that be done with the motor in the boat? I have a manual but it's hard to use since they keep referring to the KADIAG s/w.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I also have a bad display unit on the dash. It doesn't even light. Does anyone rebuild those?
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No, you really need to pull the engine so you can split the cases and check and clean the crank bearings, and since you are doing that, I would put new bearings and seals in the driveshaft bearing assy and oil pump adapter that is in the stator cover.
 
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