[de699090]

Hello, this is my first post as a PWC today member so thank you for viewing.

I have a 2004 f-12x and I've been having problems with i. I will ride it for a short while (10-15 minutes) and the Fi light will come on and limp mode ensues.

Here's what I've done:
-new oil, plugs and fresh high octane gas w/ no ethanol
-cleaned all the corrosion surrounding the wastegate actuator arm and it moves freely
-tested the air tubes leading to the wastegate and it took 5psi to open it
-cleaned all corrosion from around the turbo and the turbo housing
-cleaned the water jet in the water box (it was clear to begin with)

The Fi light gives me a 7 beep and an 8 beep when I use the wire method. One of them is the TPS sensor I think.
I don't know what else to try. Maybe clean the water hoses leading to the engine? I'm pretty sure that it has to do with a overheating issue.

PLEASE HELP! Summer is coming and I would love to have it running properly.
** lastly when it does run it runs strong and well

 

[glockm22]

Could be one of the temp sensors are bad, another on that goes bad is the map sensor, manifold absolute pressure sensor, you can test them all, but make sure what your code is first. Keep us posted we all would love to help. Fixing your problem helps us to fix ours.

 

[glockm22]

FI fault code list f12x Give this link a try some good info on your codes.

 

[de699090]

First of all thank you for the reply. Based on the error beeps (7 and 8), I found that there are problems concerning the ECT sensor: Causes the engine to enter limp more to reduce engine water temp to 90 degrees Celsius, and the TPS: causes the engine to respond poorly to aggressive throttle change. Both of these problems are completely parallel to what I experience with my ski.
When flushing the engine after use I can definitely hear the stutter of the engine when I squeeze the throttle quickly even though it is a very slight stutter. The Fact that my ski will only run properly for 10-15 minutes before it enters limp mode also makes sense with the ECT problem.
I will try going through these two sensors and hopefully I can resolve these issues. Any other information is still greatly appreciated.

Thanks again.

 

[jrinjax]

If you change the ECT, be sure and change the OTS at the same time. They both will show overheating. You also need a new set of plugs from Advance Auto Parts [$11 each].
Honda East of Toledo's Honda PWC Parts Finder

 

[de699090]

Ok I know its been a long time. I've finally replaced the ect. The tps requires replacement of the entire throttle body ($1400) do that is a no go. Apparently there is no ots sensor on my ski. Just a battery of oul pressure sensors. My sister took out the ski and was able to ride it for 2 hours and all the while towing a wakeboarder before the fi light came back on. Its definitely a change. I need to reset the codes and test again. Anyone know how to erase the write codes? I tried following the battery negative but that didn't work.

 

[de699090]

Error not write* and disconnecting not following* this was done from my phone.

 

[jrinjax]

I think that you have the same problem I did. Mine kept throwing a 7 code even after changing the ECT. I bought a new ECU off of Ebay and when it started thrwoing codes yesterday, I changed the ECU and it ran great for the rest of the day.

 

[de699090]

I'm thinking about just buying an ecu.. I just don't know if I want to spend any more money on this jet ski. I may just cut my losses and sell the damn thing. Does anyone know how to clear the error codes?

 

[jrinjax]

The codes reading and clearing procedures are in the stickys at the begining of the Honda forums on PWCTODAY.COM

 

[de699090]

Took it out again today after clearing the codes. 300 yards in a no wake zone and the fi light came on again. Got a 7 again. Jr I read you thread in pwctoday and being that I'm in florida as well we may have the same "everything everywhere is hot" problem. Have you replaced you ecu yet? Im going to do a thorough check of the writing. Lastly where did you find your ots sensor? I can only find oil ossie sensors for my ski... I.e. they're is no available ots on any parts website or at the honda powersports store.

 

[jrinjax]

While I was at the lake Saturday, I found a calm beach and swapped the ECU that was throwing codes with the one I purchased and it ran fine. I had an Ultra 250 want to race and I raced him [dead even] serveral miles with no codes, so it looks like the ECU is the problem.

 

[de699090]

I finally put in a new ECU and it has solved all of my previous problems. I had it out running and the battery light came on so I ran it for an hour thinking that it would charge the battery. Took it out today and it started up and ran perfectly again only when I turned it off i couldn't turn it back on. The battery light is still on but there is only enough juice to give a half hearted turn over with no start. Are alternator/stator problems common to these skis? I'm going to try jumping the ski to start it and taking the jump cables off right away. If it dies I guess its a bum alternator . And here I was thinking all my problems had gone.

 

[jrinjax]

Recharge your battery.
If you have a Digital Volt meter [available from WalMart for $25] check your battery terminals while it is running for 13.8 volts of DC [or slightly higher].
If your battery is more than two years old get a new Yashua battery.

Repeat procedure.
If voltage stays below 13 volts then order a rectifier off of ebay since a couple have failed.
If it does not start with a charged battery then you might have a bad main relay.