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Discussion Starter #1
Scored a 760 from someone I know, his buddy burnt out the rings. Motor turns over, no compression, so Im hoping the rebuild is limitied to the top end. I have experience in building small blocks, but new to this yamaha.

What I hope to find out is where the specs are located on how many times the cylinders can be bored out, if there are standard sized on rebuilds (like chevys... .30 over .60 over... etc) Ive spent well over two hours searching the net and havent seen many specs in reguards to this. Im aware of the sleeves but not sure how big the bore has to be before they are needed. Is this information included in a service manual?

its a 1997 yamaha waverunner 760

thanx
dave
 

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well with all the pwc forums out there, i chose to bring my question here. that was a waste of a registration i guess. take care. I'll see if another forum wants to offer up any time.
 

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even though my first experience here i was ignored and then blamed because "my bad attitude", im going to forego that typical response and bring something positive to the forum.... because thats usually what i do. I'd really like to be apart of a forum, and I will offer up some advice FIRST in hopes that others will return the favor in the same manner. this is what forums are for, members helping members... so....

I purchase another unit, a 94 wave raider. ran out good, but kill switch was obviously in need of help. I took the whole switch unit apart and inside the kill switch (safety switch to be correct) were the two copper contacts and tiny springs that held them taught against the opposing copper plates. It was full of dirt and grime, and one of the springs had collaped due to the rusting of the spring. the rust, dirt, and collapsed spring was collectively the cause of the problem. my guess is many of you might come accrosed this as well.

Figuring this out on a sunday morning, i went to all the home depots, auto parts, radio shack... etc, to find this relacement spring the same size. Nada. Since im going camping the next weekend, and watercraft stores are closed around here sunday/ monday, i was scrambling to get the fix completed on sunday.

I started to remember that electonics with moving parts ( ie, vcr, hard drives, cd drives, etc) have small springs and we all have them laying around. I ended up pulling apart a cd drive from an emachines and found the EXACT spring in a little arm that attatches to the corkscrew device responsible for the opening mechanism. perfect fit in every aspect. i was able to clean, reassemble, and fix the bad safety switch at this point.

I could be done there, but wanted to ad that as the switch failed and the spring collapsed and corroded the contact a little, the switch will not work in the full range. there was some pitting to the flat side of the contact due to the arcing and sparking that are associated with an electrical failure. The safety pin wanted to hike that button all the way up almost a quarter inch. I had to shave the plastic safety pin down a bit with a grinder to find the undamaged sweet spot.

Being a used watercraft that is older that i obtained thru a trade for a guitar, i wasnt going buy a new switch assembly that would have taken a week or two to order, and cost well over a $100. This free ski now has been fixed, it didnt cost me a penny other than the gas i spent driving around looking for the little spring, and i can most likely get a season or two out of the safety switch as long as the rest of the water craft holds up.

:thumbsup:
 
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