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Discussion Starter #1
I hae been having consistent trouble with my '01 GP800R this season. The problems started when we fired it up after winter storage, the oil warning icon and buzzer were on. We checked the oil level sensor and it was out of spec, so I replaced it. Unfortunately, the icon and buzzer were still on. I checked the oil strainer, which was clean. I also checked the setting on the oil pump, and it was OK as well. So we decided to run it.

The ski started and ran fine, there was plenty of oil in the reservoir, and it was smoking at idle as usual so we ran it a while. However, it didn't seem to be using as much oil as in the past, the level was going down but we didn't seem to be adding as much oil. We ran it some the next day, and it appeared to sieze up - when it got warmed up, power began to decline and the motor stopped. It re-started, but same thing. Then it wouldn't crank at all, as if the battery became disconnected. Later in the day it would crank again, although we didn't try to start it and run it. So we pulled it out of the water.

Here are my questions, any help is truly appreciated:

1. Any idea how or why this happened? The jet ski was properly winterized, and was stored in central North Carolina. Winter was fairly mild.

2. I assume the oil pump needs replacement and the lines need to be checked, is this correct?

3. How does the oil pump deliver oit to the fuel stream?

4. If the engine siezed, but freed up later, do I need to do anything with it? I can certainly add some oil to the fuel, as required during break-in.

5. Any other reason for the oil warning light? According to the service manual, it means the display unit is bad (Big $$$)


Thanks for your help,
 

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Add oil to the Gas. Restart and see what compression is if you can. More than likly your going to have to rebuild the upper half of the motor, New pistons and rings, and deck the head along with gaskets.
Get a block off kit for the oil pump, DennisKirk.com - Motorcycle, Harley-Davidson, ATV, Dirt Bike, Snowmobile, PWC / Watercraft Parts, Apparel, and Accessories their cheap, remove the pump and you will have to run mixed oil and gas in your ski, 50:1. if you do this you won't have to rely on the oil pump anymore and engine failure because of it. I have had it happen on a few older Kawasaki's and this sucks. Why it failed who knows,oil got to thick during the winter months, or pump was plugged in some way, New Jet Ski Parts and Used Jetski Parts - Jetskiparts.com will give you a whole breakdown on the ski and the engine so you can see what you need to do before you take it apart this will help if your doing it by yourself. Make sure you spend the extra money and get the head decked its worth it, you might have to bore the cyclanders also don't know, don't go half way on this project you don't want to have to do it twice.
Good luck,
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Re: Oil & Seizure

Glockm22,

Thanks a lot for the reply & links. I can see your point about taking the oil pump out of the loop, makes sense to me, less stuff to break.

One question about the mix rate - your reply said 50:1, the service manual says the feed rate is 30:1 at WOT. The owner's manual says 50:1 in the gas during breakin in addition to the oil pump feed.

Checked the compression today, 115psi in front and 120 in back. It turns over fine, and compression is very repeatable in both cylinders. Squirted a little motor oil in and rechecked, only picked up 1-2 psi. Have not tried to restart it yet, I need to add some oil to the gas. I am thinking about going ahead and running it for a while with mixed fuel.

ps - have tried the G17 and G21, but not the G22.
 

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If using a good oil 50:1 will work fine, if you don't feel safe at that level go ahead and mix richer.

ps-g22 is a personal fav and g22c is sweet too but little blinding with dark indoor use & hot loads. They will never fail you. 1,000's of rounds threw mine.
 

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Did you say you replaced the oil sender?? The oil sender is just a electric level reader that you can replace if it is stuffed (wont be the guage). You should check all lines to the oil pump, and the in line oil filter for blockages. Also check the lines from the oil pump to the carbs for blockages. You can take the oil pump off and check it is working with a drill and the intake into an oil bottle or you can check it by turning the engine over and un-cracking the oil bleed screw under the exhaust rubber joiner on the right hand side of the front cylinder. Unfortunately, if it has nipped up you will have to re-build the top end. Nickalsil doesn't recover like steel sometimes can. Its only turning over again cause it has cooled down and detracted.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Continued thanks, guys...

I did replace the oil sender, the oil icon and buzzer still go off. Also tried shorting the wires, no change. According to the shop manual, it says replace the display.

Know any sources for repairing the display? New ones are $500, too dang expensive.

best regards,
 
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