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Discussion Starter #1
Im new to Jet Skis and was given a JS550 basket case. Everything is there but none of it is together. The engine block was compleate but the ports were open and it was obvious that a bunch of crap got in there. Since a new gasket kit was laying in the hull I set on taking the engine apart.
I have removed the head, jugs, pistons, flywheel, and cracked the case. Now to change the crank seals, it looks like i will have to remove the drive coupler. Are there any tricks to getting it off and more importantly on?
Also it would be great to get some torque specs for the case bolts and head stud nuts. Also the Flywheel nut torque.

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The cylinder head has some pretty bad pitting on the inside from salt water eating it. I think it would be ok but I found another head in the hull that looks brand new. The chambers seem to be shaped differently so i wasnt going to use it but it made me notice something. It seems the heads only had one water fitting on them but mine has another that has been hand tapped into the other side of the head so that there are two. Is this a commen mod?

Ant help would be great since i am excited to get this thing together and on the water.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well I figured out the drive coupler just threads off. Tore down the engine the rest of the way. Sonic dipped it all and reassembled it. All I really need at the moment is torque specs since i just snuged it all together.
How does duel cooling work?
I know i should get a manual but things are tight and i dont feel like spending $30 on a manual if i can just get the engine specs from here.
 

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the head is set up fpr dual cooling

i would buy a shop manual
That was barely helpful.




I have never torn down any of my skis. The Kawasaki shop I used to use when I lived in SC is really helpful. They are pretty good about giving what information theyve got. I've used them for several carb questions. My uncle used to be a Jet Ski mechanic, I will email him and see if he as anything lying around with those.

I would hit up a Kawi shop and see if they know. If not, yellow page Performance Cycle in Greenwood, SC and call them up. They have treated me pretty good in the past.
performance cycle in Greenwood - YELLOWPAGES.COM

I dont know a thing about dual-cooling. sorry. I would just assume that you could either plug the 2nd hole with a NPT pipe plug or put a T in your cooling water supply and route one line to that hole.
 

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If you dont have them already here are your torque specs.

Head bolts are 18ft-lb for the '91' all others are 16
crank case large bolts 16 lb. small bolts 50in.-lb you figure out the inch-pounds. '91'
all others large 22lb small 69in.-lb
Flywheel nut 115lb
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys.
I got the engine torqued and rough timed by lineing the marks up.
Cleaned the carb and went to install the engine only to find that three of the engine mounts were toast. Suposedly the original owner had a really sooped up engine in the thing and it blew up including bent crank, broke rods and god knows what else. I would assume thats when the mounts went too.
So i gotta get mounts and then she should be ready to go.
Just need to figure out the cooling lines and put in that shiney new impeller that came with. Everything else seems somewhat self explanitory.
 

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That was barely helpful.




I have never torn down any of my skis. The Kawasaki shop I used to use when I lived in SC is really helpful. They are pretty good about giving what information theyve got. I've used them for several carb questions. My uncle used to be a Jet Ski mechanic, I will email him and see if he as anything lying around with those.

I would hit up a Kawi shop and see if they know. If not, yellow page Performance Cycle in Greenwood, SC and call them up. They have treated me pretty good in the past.
performance cycle in Greenwood - YELLOWPAGES.COM

I dont know a thing about dual-cooling. sorry. I would just assume that you could either plug the 2nd hole with a NPT pipe plug or put a T in your cooling water supply and route one line to that hole.

buying a shop manual is the best thing $ can buy!!
i do not trust anybody i get specs from unless it is from the factory book
just my way of doing things right
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah I do agree with you. I'm the same way with my dirtbikes, trucks, whatever. But this thing is a pure low buck project. The only money i have in it right now is $20 in some engine mounts. After that i think and its a big think but she should be ready to go. I still gotta figure out cooling though. If everything else except the engine isnt set up for duel cool then i'll just run the stock setup. However that goes. :dunno:
 

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I went through my service manual front to back twice. I could find every ski but yours for a cooling hose routing diagram. I only own the 650sx so no help there. I would suggest that someone might take a few detailed pictures of the cooling hoses on their ski and post them up for you.
Just a suggestion. Maybe try starting a new thread asking for pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for looking.
Theres a dealer in town. I was goin to see if they would perhaps write it down for me or something. Still waitin on mounts in the mail and gettin antzy
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well shes gettin real close. My cheapo used mounts came today so i set onto more progress. Bolted er down only to find out you can put the pipe on later:dunno:
Anyways i fiddled around and used some of the shims it came with to get the engine into what seemed a low stress position. Fiddled with fuel lines etc untill it seemed they were right. Coolant lines all hooked up except the second "duel Cool" fitting on the head which is my only snag right now. Could i Tee the line into the tell tail fitting or should i just plug it. If its simple to hook up i'll run it. Otherwise i gotta go buy a plug for the hole.
Heres some pics showing just what a POS it is but for free im satisfied sofar. Pluss if it turns out to be a reliable rig i might just take it to the body shop i work at and give it a new look.

PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF SOMETHING LOOKS WRONG!!!! im a newb



 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok, I went down this morning poured some gas down the carb and it fired right up but died as to be expected. I primed the fuel line to the carb with a squeeze bulb but it still wont go. I had two carbs. One with a square pump and one round which i used. So playing with the hoses this is what i understand:
Line from filter out to side of fuel pump
Line from left side of carb to vacume valve.
Small line from vacume valve to reference port on venturi bore.
Pulse line to barb in the middle of pump cover.

The pump only seems to operate when the return line port is pluged so does this mean that during running that the vacume valve closes??
If so perhaps my vacume valve is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The square pump carb is half together and looks terrible inside. The throttle shaft on it turns hard too.
I picked up a new mukuni kit for the round pump carb for fear the other carb could be junk. After getting water hooked and running it on the primer for 5 min or so i think a carb kit is all it needs. I figured out that thing i was lookin at was a rev limiter. someone told me the mariner plate on the bottom is suposed to be an upgrade or some crap so that cool i guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok so i rebuilt the carb today. and still no go.
I followed the diagram super close and it still wont pump fuel. I thought mabye for some reason the engine crank seals might no have sealed right so i started pulsing with my mouth on a tube. I can blow in and through slightly into the return line through the pulse port. Sucking is sealed. This is exactly what it did before i rebuilt it. pulsing in and out with my mouth quickly I can see the fuel in the inlet line just move back and forth. Sucking or blowing constant does not move the fuel so i know its not leaking air into the fuel inlet line.
Is there anything helpful to know??
Its almost like a check flap in the carb isnt sealing. All the non wearable carb parts looked good. No scratches etc to cause a check valve leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
yeah i see the valve but its not inline with the fuel lines. Looks like a vent or something going up into the front of the ski. Should there be a valve inline with the return?
 
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