rebuild the carb
SeaDoo can't get pass bogging problem
Hello Everyone. This is my first post on this forum. I have a pair of SeaDoos, ’96 & ’97 GTX. The ’97 runs great, but I am having a hard time getting the ’96 to run right. I acquired these Jet Skis thru a trade about 1½ years ago. I was not able to get the ’96 to run and discovered the engine needed a complete rebuild which I had done by Fairchild Performance (Fairchild Performance home) in Missouri, very nice people. I put the engine in a month ago, and it fired right up. Now to the problem.
The ski starts right up and idles great but starts to bog down at 2500 to 3000 RPMs. The first time out, I discovered that if I pumped the throttle, I could get it past the bogging, and it ran fine at 4000 to 5500 RPMs (I didn’t want to push the new rebuild). After an hour or so, it would not jump past the bogging. Because I was running extra oil in the gas for the first tank after the rebuild, I figured it was the plugs, so I changed them out. It would now jump past the bogging but only intermittently.
I was told it was in the carburetor setting, and I have tried numerous settings with no luck. I have been to the lake several times, always with the same result. It will start and run very easily up to 2500 RPMs. Once in a while, it will get past the bogging; when it does, it runs fine.
Here are the things I have tried:
Adjusting the idle needle valve (start @ 1 turn out)
High-speed needle valve fully closed
Replaced the fuel filter in both carbs (didn’t help)
Checked the sediment bowl/filter for the gas tank (clean)
Swapped the coil/starter relay/plug wires from the ’97 (didn’t help)
Swapped carbs from ’97 (didn’t help)
I’m really at a loss here. I still think it is in the fuel delivery system somewhere. When I pull the plugs, they are not oil-fouled but are wet with gas. Any insights would be greatly appreciated.
The ski starts right up and idles great but starts to bog down at 2500 to 3000 RPMs. The first time out, I discovered that if I pumped the throttle, I could get it past the bogging, and it ran fine at 4000 to 5500 RPMs (I didn’t want to push the new rebuild). After an hour or so, it would not jump past the bogging. Because I was running extra oil in the gas for the first tank after the rebuild, I figured it was the plugs, so I changed them out. It would now jump past the bogging but only intermittently.
I was told it was in the carburetor setting, and I have tried numerous settings with no luck. I have been to the lake several times, always with the same result. It will start and run very easily up to 2500 RPMs. Once in a while, it will get past the bogging; when it does, it runs fine.
Here are the things I have tried:
Adjusting the idle needle valve (start @ 1 turn out)
High-speed needle valve fully closed
Replaced the fuel filter in both carbs (didn’t help)
Checked the sediment bowl/filter for the gas tank (clean)
Swapped the coil/starter relay/plug wires from the ’97 (didn’t help)
Swapped carbs from ’97 (didn’t help)
I’m really at a loss here. I still think it is in the fuel delivery system somewhere. When I pull the plugs, they are not oil-fouled but are wet with gas. Any insights would be greatly appreciated.
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As stated in the original post I swapped carbs from a good running ski with no improvement in performance. As 550 Ocean Pro Slut offered I was getting ready to spend another $100+ dollars to rebuild the carbs but I just had a feeling that was not the problem.550 OCEAN PRO SLUT said:rebuild the carb
I searched a couple of other Jet Ski forums for answers and found two different posts with the same solution, "REPLACE THE RECTIFIER". One poster was good enough to offer this test procedure. "Pull the 15amp fuse in the control box in the front compartment where the rectifier is installed as the only thing this fuse control is the rectifier. If the ski runs well, replace the rectifier."
I pulled the fuse and the ski ran great. Problem solved. Apparently, when the rectifier goes bad it interferes with the RPM limiter. I hope this post helps others.
I had the same problem with my 99 GTS. took everything apart. It was the filter on the outside side of the carburator (not the side of the carb that faces the pistons but removing the cover on the side of the carb that faces the outside of the watercraft. They are known for this getting dirty. You will have to take off the spark arrestor first and then probably loosen the carb screws (4) to remove it before taking the four screws off the carb cover. hope it helps
i'm having the same problem with my '96xps. this is a second hand ski, and i had to replace the rotary gear at first.
here is a better description of my problems: battery does not hold a charge. runs fine on a cold start, but bogs down once warmed up. runs better out of water than in the water. seems to be running a little rich.
here is what i am thinking it is: rectifier is preventing the battery from charging. it is running all of the battery power out, and then it dies out. running rich because i still need to fine tune the carb.
any thoughts????
p.s. i'm going to try running it without the fuse later. i've cleaned up, and i'm tired of messing with that darned thing today
here is a better description of my problems: battery does not hold a charge. runs fine on a cold start, but bogs down once warmed up. runs better out of water than in the water. seems to be running a little rich.
here is what i am thinking it is: rectifier is preventing the battery from charging. it is running all of the battery power out, and then it dies out. running rich because i still need to fine tune the carb.
any thoughts????
p.s. i'm going to try running it without the fuse later. i've cleaned up, and i'm tired of messing with that darned thing today
Mine kinda did that. Just to find out why was one of the cylinders and pistons had a hole in it. No compression.
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
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