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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am a combat veteran and a retired bus technician. I had 6 waverunners in 9 years and never worked on them before, but after a mechanic wanted to charge me 6 hours to "properly" replace the starter bendix on my xl1200 I decide to work on my own jet skis. He said that he has to remove the engine. He insulted my intelligence. So I replaced the bendix. Took me 45 minutes to move aside the hood assy and lien forward the fuel tank to accomodate my impact gun to loose the flywheel and about the same time to install everything back together. The only problem was that I could not find anything on my tool box to hold the flywheel. After tighning with a breaker bar in one hand and holding the flywheel with the other hand, I marked the bolt. I had to set up the pressure on the impact gun with a trailer bolt to achieve the 52 ft pounds the manual calls for. Double check with the torque wrench and it was about 55 ft pounds. So I went and hit two quick burst on that main bolt. It moved but I do'nt know if I attain the right torque. I did'nt want to hold the impact gun any longer because I know I was going to break the bolt. Water test the ski and runs great.

Is there any tool to hold the flywheel while the engine in place?
What are the possibilities of the flywheel get loose? I am thinking the first part it will damage will be the oil pump
Should I go pre-mix with this 1998 xl 1200 and my other xlt800?
All the oil lines looks fine on both skis but I don't like the zip-ties on the 1998 xl 1200.
Also, I don't like the way it sound the 2002 xlt800 engine at idle. It knocks a bit on the heads with this variable oil injection. Compression on both cylinders @ 125psi, and 78 hours on the engine. I purchased from the original owner and was sit half way on a fresh water lake. The bottom rear half of the hull and jet assy has like calcifications from the fresh water. Is like a hard beige material but is not as bad as like if was sit on salt water. Everything works fine back there except the speed sensor.Checked the oil pump cable adjustment and is within specs. Increase the rpm's and of course oil pressure increase and it does'nt knock anymore.Water test and it runs great but ocassionally knocks a bit up there ocassionally at idle only.
Is there anything I can use to safely remove the calcifications?
Are these 800's engines like that?
I may be wrong, but in my opinion this variable oil injection is set up to lack of lube at idle to avoid smoke but this could hurt the engine.
I greatly appreciate any advice

By the way, I have a 1998 continental double trailer for sale in great condition located in Orlando Florida.


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the oil injection wont hurt the motor at low rpm,,, its around 300:1 at idle and 36:1 at WOT.... ive heard you can get away with just gas at low idle,,, never tryed it never will and dont recommend it but thats the word...

if your gonna stay oil injection then make damn sure those lines are tight on the carb nipples,, or switch to pre-mix:D thats what i do on all my boats,,, less to worry about...

be careful using that impact wrench,, its easy to snap bolts..

there a few aftermarket FW holders but whats wrong with the one you found?
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