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I did look for a sticky on winterizing without seeing one, so here I am. I am a new pwc owner and need info on winterizing.

So far I know:
fill up gas tank all the way
add fuel stabilizer
run tap water through system then unhook and exhaust it all out
spray wd40 lightly over engine
spray some wd40 into cylinders
disconnect battery

missing anything?

Also is anyone familiar with the where the water hose hook up is for the 2001 yamaha gp800 series...
 

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Winterizng info

sirmalcs said:
I did look for a sticky on winterizing without seeing one, so here I am. I am a new pwc owner and need info on winterizing.

So far I know:
fill up gas tank all the way
add fuel stabilizer
run tap water through system then unhook and exhaust it all out
spray wd40 lightly over engine
spray some wd40 into cylinders
disconnect battery

missing anything?

Also is anyone familiar with the where the water hose hook up is for the 2001 yamaha gp800 series...
DO NOT use WD-40.
Use proper 2-stroke fogging oil to fog the engine.

Do NOT use petroleum based spray (like WD-40) on the outside of the motor, or inside the hull. Petroleum sprays can harden plastics and wire insulation, causing cracks and other problems after a few years. Use something like Boeshield T-9 or Fluid Film.

Tip the nose up 10-20 degrees, if you can, then run the motor and burp the throttle a couple of times to push most of the water out. If you can store it with the nose high, and the drain plugs out, that will reduce the amount of water in the hull. Prop the seat open a bit, to allow fresh air to circulate, but not open so much that critters can get inside.

You need to have run the motor enough to be sure the fuel stabilizer has worked through the fuel system, but don't run the motor for extended periods out of the water, even on the flushing hose, as the jet pump bearings are not being cooled.

If you can store the battery indoors, somewhere dry and cool, and recharge it every couple of months, do so.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the reply.

Well I already fogged it with real fogging oil but I did spray the outside of the engine and "prop" with wd40. I also ran it for about 12 minutes with waterhose to flush engine and induce stabilized fuel into carbs and motor.

Is the single spray down with WD gonna hurt it?

Also, is 12-15 minutes too long to run without it being in the water?

Thanks for the help,
Malcolm
 

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sirmalcs said:
thanks for the reply.

Well I already fogged it with real fogging oil but I did spray the outside of the engine and "prop" with wd40. I also ran it for about 12 minutes with waterhose to flush engine and induce stabilized fuel into carbs and motor.

Is the single spray down with WD gonna hurt it?

Also, is 12-15 minutes too long to run without it being in the water?

Thanks for the help,
Malcolm
Just to be clear, you fogged into each of the air intakes (to get the oil down into the crankcase and lower cylinders) while the motor was running, then shut it down, AND then sprayed a couple of seconds worth of fogging oil into each spark plug hole (after the engine was cooled down). Then put the plugs back in, and leave it like that until spring.

15 minutes is a LONG time for those jet pump bearings to run without cooling water. A minute or so is all I would have done, then let it cool for a few minutes, then run it again. Now you know for next time. For now, the bearings MAY have suffered, but there isn't much you can do, unless you want to pull the pump off and check or replace them, which is some work.

I suggest you leave it as it is, and if you detect any unusual noises (especially rattles or grinding noises) the first few times you are out on the water next, remember that the bearings might have been heat stressed. If you do hear noise, then either take it to a mechanic, and tell him the story, or investigate yourself.

WD-40 on the engine exterior, should be OK this time. I suggest come spring you soap down the hull interior (don't go crazy, just clean off the oily film), wash it out thoroughly, then let it dry in the sun (nose high, to drain out the drain plug holes). Once dry, spray it lightly with something better, let that dry, and you're good to go.

Next time you want to fuel stabilize for winter, add it to the last tankful before your last ride. Enjoy the ride. On the way home, add enough additional fuel stabilizer to handle a full tank, then fill the tank at the gas station. There will already be stabilizer in the fuel lines from your ride, and the new fuel will mix with the additional stabilizer as you drive it home. It is OK to have the stabilizer-fuel ratio a bit strong, just don't completely over do it.

BTW, you can use stabilizer any time you are not sure how long it will be until the next ride. Gasoline these days starts to degrade fairly quickly, even 30 days sitting it can start to change. Just add the fuel stabilizer before you ride (if you can), or put some in the tank while it is parked. Even if you don't run it into the engine, it is better than not doing it, and cheap compared to throwing away a tank of fuel, or wondering why the engine isn't running quite right, or fixing engine damage from bad gas.

You can also fog the engine during the season, if you are not sure how long it will be. Fogging only takes a minute or two, and again is cheap insurance against internal engine corrosion. If you ride in salt water, then you should consider fogging after every day's riding, as the engine will breathe some salt in along with the sea air.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I didn't here any new noises towards the end of my running it so I hope that I didn't hurt anything. I got that useful information from somone else online (flush it for about 10-15 min on the hose to let stabilized fuel through the system). Thanks
 
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