1996 Tigershark Monte Carlo 900 won't idle in water - Page 2 - PWC Forum: The best hang-out for Personal WaterCraft enthusiasts
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-17-2018, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. I will check all of that. I'm just hoping that the cylinders are fine, as I'm sure finding a replacement will be a pain if it is cracked. I also hope that it doesn't need any bottom end work as that is when things begin getting time consuming. I will certainly check to be sure, but I can still turn the engine over by hand fairly easily, which I would think wouldn't be possible if things were rusted on the bottom end.
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-17-2018, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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I think I may have just found my issue. I just remembered that I noticed one of the water lines that is connected to the cylinder heads was leaking the last time we had it running (this was years ago). I noticed the water on the carburetor side of the engine, which is opposite from the line, but I think it was leaking into the channel between the cylinders and I only noticed it on that side because it was easier to see. I don't remember which cylinder was leaking, but I bet that this is the overheating issue. The only thing is this is a small leak. From what I have read about other skis is that a small leak is all it takes to cause overheating. Is this correct?

Also, on the topic of the carburetor spitting back. After doing a little research I think that the reed valves might be the issue. Seems like they are allowing combustion gases to come back through the intake.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-17-2018, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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I did another compression test to see make sure that nothing has changed after running it on the trailer before I start buying stuff. oddly enough the PTO cylinder is now up to 124 from 110, the rest are about the same. I did notice though that the MAG and center cylinder built up pressure slower than the PTO cylinder. I decided to jump in and remove some of the heads. The PTO cylinder looked healthy, but had quite a bit of sand in the cooling section. What is the best way to clean sand out of here, and why is it here in the first place? The gaskets on the center cylinder on the other hand had both the inner and outer gasket blown. I'm not sure how I'm getting 116PSI of compression on this cylinder The outer gasket was blown where I saw the water. It must have been dripping down and I only noticed it when it got to the bottom of the cylinder and started boiling. I have already ordered a head gasket set and will be putting them on when I get them.

I didn't check the MAG cylinder yet because I would have to remove the exhaust first. Hopefully it is just a blown head gasket like the rest.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-18-2018, 06:25 AM
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The sand has to be rinsed out. It gets in there from running in to shallow of water. Pwc manuals state do not run in less than 2ft of water, just for that reason of sucking up debris sitting on the bottom. My advise is to pull all the jugs off and rinse them out, and thoroughly rinse the exhaust system.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-19-2018, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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While waiting for the head gasket kit to come in I decided to check out the reed valves and found this (see attached image). The reed valve is missing a huge chunk. This is from the PTO cylinder which was spitting back a lot of gas. I checked to make sure that it isn't still stuck in the intake, and it's not. It must have been sucked into the engine. Doesn't look like it damaged the cylinder. What other possibilities are there for damage?
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-20-2018, 05:55 AM
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Looks metal. If so, you need to find it. That will cause the prob you are having along with slightly lower compression, hard starting, and low power. Replace all of them with a set of Boysen pro series set.
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-20-2018, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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Sadly I have already ordered steel replacements and they are on the way. I did some research and it seems that most people say that the steel reeds will often get broken up in the crankcase, possibly nick the piston or cylinder wall, then exit out the exhaust. Overall the damage is usually fairly minor from what I have read. As I stated that cylinder seems undamaged. So I either got lucky or most of it is still in the crankcase. Either way I would really rather not pull the engine out and open the crankcase if I don't have to. Not only because it is time consuming but there are also a lot of things that could go wrong, and since I am not that familiar with these engines, I fear something would go wrong.
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-20-2018, 02:58 PM
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Been so long i cant remember if they are std spring steel or stainless. Might check with a mag. Might be able to use a small retrieving mag and fish it out.
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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The reed was actually still connected and stuck in the cage, so no need to retrieve! I changed the reed valves and head gaskets today. I started it up and it seemed to run a lot better. The carb didn't spit back, no water leaks, and no apparent overheating.

One thing that concerned me though is that while running it on the hose the jet pump seemed to rattle quite a bit. From my research some people seem to think this is normal, others suggest rebuilding the jet pump. Seems almost like it may even be specific to certain skis. Any input to whether or not this is normal for Tigersharks?

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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-26-2018, 06:25 AM
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Jet pump noise is halfway normal, but should not be overlooked. The bearings are prob. getting worn, and replacing them and the seals is a good idea now before they go out.
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