2003 GP1300R Oil Line Replacement - PWC Forum: The best hang-out for Personal WaterCraft enthusiasts
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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2003 GP1300R Oil Line Replacement

Hello all,

I'm attempting to replace my oil lines on my 2003 GP1300R but am struggling to get to them. Rookie here - I can usually fumble through YouTube videos and forum posts to get things done, but have spent hours trying/looking and need some help.

Do I have to remove the exhaust to get to the oil pump and replace the lines? Can I remove just the muffler assembly on the starboard/right side of the ski and not the whole thing?

Any advice on removing this thing? Tried watching some videos and still struggling.

Thanks,

Last edited by GIJeff; 05-12-2019 at 04:07 PM.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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I think this is the only bolt I haven't been able to undo.. any advice on how to get to it?
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GIJeff View Post
Hello all,

I'm attempting to replace my oil lines on my 2003 GP1300R but am struggling to get to them. Rookie here - I can usually fumble through YouTube videos and forum posts to get things done, but have spent hours trying/looking and need some help.

Do I have to remove the exhaust to get to the oil pump and replace the lines? Can I remove just the muffler assembly on the starboard/right side of the ski and not the whole thing?

Any advice on removing this thing? I have removed all bolts I can see but it won't budge. Tried watching some videos and still struggling.

Thanks,
Yes, you'll have to remove the exhaust. You may be able to get away only removing the part between the two rubber couplings but I'm betting you probably will have to remove the front portion thats kind of U shaped.
If your using wire ties to connect your oil lines. Be sure to use the BLK ones. They hold up best against the elements and heat. Also I recommend using a wire tie gun to install them. It's the only good way to get the tight and secure. A tie gun can be found in the electrical section of Lowe's, home Depot, or electrical supply house.
Also leave 1/1.5 inches of slack in your hoses to allow for shrinkage. And loosely secure them with wire ties along the route so they don't flop around.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 04:29 PM
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I'm not sure what that bolts to. But from the parts diagram it doesn't appear to be part of the exhaust.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the response. So I got it all apart and pulled off the U-shaped exhaust piece you mentioned. I'm pretty sure I found the oil pump, but I don't see any zip ties connecting the oil lines! Everything I've read said Yamaha used zip ties to connect them, right? These look like they're connected normally to the pump.

Looks like the pump can be removed by pulling 2 bolts. I don't want to pull them if everything is fine... it's jammed way down in there and is difficult to get to. Any advice on what I should do?

Thanks again!
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 12:49 PM
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Wow, those are still the factory clamps they started using, I think around 02. My 02 had both, those clamps and ties. My 01 only ties. Either way your setting on a time bomb. No saying how much longer your lines will go.
I recommend replacing them now. And every 2 to 3 years from now on.
If you use a wire tie gun to install the ties and get them good and tight you'll have no issues.
Be sure to bleed the air from the lines after or you'll damage one or all cyl.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Dave! Based on what you said in your post on my other thread, I need to only replace the hoses from the pump to the carb, right? What about the hose from the oil tank to the pump?

What are these clear things attached to the lines - are those the one way valves? Is there any need to do anything with them or are they pretty simple and good to go?
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 11:20 AM
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Thanks Dave! Based on what you said in your post on my other thread, I need to only replace the hoses from the pump to the carb, right? What about the hose from the oil tank to the pump?

What are these clear things attached to the lines - are those the one way valves? Is there any need to do anything with them or are they pretty simple and good to go?
Usually the hose from the tank to pump is a different type of hose and stays soft and flexible. You can check it though. If it is stiff and feels hard you may want to replace. If they look oily you may want to at least replace the wire ties.

The white plastic piece in the line is a one way valve to keep the oil from draining back toward the tank. Be careful with them, there about $30ea. Be sure to put them back in correctly. There is a small arrow on them for flow direction. No need to do anything else to them.
Don't remember if I mentioned in previous posts or not. If you remove the cable from the pump it will need to be reset to the timing marks very simple/easy. Will send photo and how to when I get home to manual in a bit. Just a matter of adjusting the cable to line up marks.

This is from the GP800r manual but the mark concept is the same.
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Last edited by Dave in DE; 05-14-2019 at 02:04 PM.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Any advice on bleeding the lines? The manual says just to unscrew the air bleed screw 2 full turns and to wait.. I've done that for an extended period of time and no oil is going through the lines. Oil is coming out of the air bleed screw, but not the lines. 2 of the lines I have attached to the carbs, the other one (short one) I have hanging free and pointed towards the bottom of the hull.

Thanks,
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 08:33 PM
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Any advice on bleeding the lines? The manual says just to unscrew the air bleed screw 2 full turns and to wait.. I've done that for an extended period of time and no oil is going through the lines. Oil is coming out of the air bleed screw, but not the lines. 2 of the lines I have attached to the carbs, the other one (short one) I have hanging free and pointed towards the bottom of the hull.

Thanks,
The screw only bleeds the pump and tank line.
Best way I've found is to turn the pump counter clockwise with a drill and 10mm 6 point socket.
It can also be done with the starter in very short cranks. Remove plugs and ground them with them in wires. I also like to add a teaspoon of oil to each cyl before cranking. If done this way.
Or if your fuel tank is low mix it at 40/1 and run it easy to fill lines. Again add a teaspoon of oil to each cyl this way also.
You can also use a large syringe from lawn and garden in Lowe's to push oil through the lines before attaching them at the pump end. Either way you choose to do it with the exception of drill and cranking method. run premix for first few gallons of fuel to cover any missed air bubbles.

I prefer the drill method as all the air is out. no premix needed. And it's as if it were a running system.

Last edited by Dave in DE; 05-26-2019 at 08:36 PM.
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