2003 Yamaha XLT 800 66e Projects - Page 10 - PWC Forum: The best hang-out for Personal WaterCraft enthusiasts
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post #91 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 12:52 AM
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Yes, you should replace packing#8. You don't want a leak through there it will let dirt into your pump.

The 2 square nuts are old battery post nuts. I'm not sure what that round BLK piece is. Doesn't look familiar. rectangle BLK piece is battery block from under battery. Also I don't know what the wht piece is beside the hammer.
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post #92 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 05:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T0MMY B0NES View Post
And I was either shorted a check valve or it got lost somewhere. It being clear plastic, it is virtually impossible to find if you drop it. I opened both of my kits in ziploc baggies to not lose anything but I cannot find the 4th check valve. And I threw away my old ones.
The check valves are hard to find when you drop them. Been there done that.
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post #93 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 01:12 AM Thread Starter
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New reeds will be here tomorrow, replacement check valve Thursday or Friday supposedly. I will see if the parts guy has any packing.
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post #94 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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Reeds arrived today. I will be trying to work on the ski while I wait for the replacement clear check valve on the carb. I did end up replacing the needle arms and spring so I will need to test pop off. I have an air compressor and a bike pump so I am looking to build one. Any good links for DIY pop off? Is it possible to construct one that will "freeze" the needle where pop off occurs to get a better reading?
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post #95 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 02:34 PM
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I used a regular 0/100 pop off pump. But next time I'm going to use the compressor and a micro regulator with a good guage. With the pump I was having difficulty pumping and reading pressure, and everything was shaking about as I pumped
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post #96 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Welp, I found out was this is, the "top" of the motor mount, it is pictured upside down, protruding stem sits in rubber. Looks as though both my rear mounts were dry rotted, going to have to replace these as well. Pulled all the oil lines off of the used pump I purchased, sitting in chem bath and then I will rinse it and start replacing the lines with the tygon and oetiker camps.
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post #97 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 03:23 PM
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Ok, now it makes sense. That being a motor mount.
Be sure to flush the pump out pretty good if it's in chem dip. Fire it up on the drill or impact counter clockwise with a hose full of 2 stroke oil.
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post #98 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 01:51 AM Thread Starter
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Pump cleaned and flushed. New reeds installed on cages. Fuel tank inside hull. Sending unit in. The mystery plate from previous post was found to be the cover off of the remote control shift lever. It appears to have mounting holes for two screws, I did not remove these so I will need to find replacements. Entire assembly is a bit loose because of this but replacement is $300, I'll try the $1 screws. Hopefully check valve for carb comes tomorrow and I am picking up a digital air regulator to aid with measuring pop off.
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post #99 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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Crunch time is here, had a wedding to attend outside of Sandusky, Ohio, naturally had to spend a day at Cedar Point while we were up there. I came back to my replacement motor mounts. Going to put crankcase together today and hopefully test pop-off pressure. The goal is to break the ski in on Thursday to enjoy the Labor Day weekend.
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post #100 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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I need a crankcase sealant that I can source locally, I bought a gasket maker that does not stand up to gasoline. I can't find anyone that sells ThreeBond 1211 locally.

*Edit - Going with Permatex Motoseal for the crankcase. Picked up a foot of 1/4 ID to run pop off pressure when I get crankcase sealed up.

Last edited by T0MMY B0NES; 08-27-2019 at 02:25 PM.
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