2003 Yamaha XLT 800 66e Projects - Page 11 - PWC Forum: The best hang-out for Personal WaterCraft enthusiasts
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post #101 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Dave in DE View Post
Nothing should change the 1.2 will work just need to use correct spring for needle/seat you want to be about 70/80 psi for pop off. I have the chart home.
I think I am popping around 70/80 psi though it seems its on the higher end, nearing like 82-84 psi. I can hear a very small air leak before it pops. I need to find out where it is coming from and seal it to get a more accurate reading and a good 3x average. I had to use some pretty stiff fuel line from Autozone so that may be part of the issue. Where do I need to be with the overbore to 81mm and running the 1.2 needle valve with the 150 and 90 jets?
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post #102 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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Found the leak, not happy either. After tightening all of my hose clamps, I found the air leak (RED RECTANGLE) to be between the carb body and the fuel pump. Some WD40 started spitting bubbles when I sprayed it, it starts at about 40 PSI, very small leak but a leak nonetheless. I have dismantled the fuel pump twice, double checking the seals and looking for debris. Not sure what the issue is.

I may move on to the second carb to see if it has the same issue, maybe even swap the fuel pumps to see if that helps. Any ideas?
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post #103 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 02:21 PM
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Sounds like you're good on the pop off but you'll need to get the leak under control. Try laying the pump block on a flat surface with a sheet of very fine sand paper(400/600grit). Slide pump around then look to see if pump is showing even sand marks. ie, not warped. If only slightly warped try and clean it up on the sand paper.
I converted my carb body screws to Allan headed and used antisieze to get them a bit tighter. Also my screw heads were in sad shape.

Last edited by Dave in DE; 08-28-2019 at 03:50 PM.
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post #104 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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I though it could have been the pump blocks, I found a local store that had a listing for 2 of them so I purchased them. Lo and behold the carb is still leaking at the same exact spot. The 2nd block did fix the leak on the 2nd carb. So I guess there is some sort of warping on the carb face. I like the idea of switching screws, that I will do as well.

I may have attempted a jerry-rig being that I do not have a spare carb and I spread a thin layer of gasket marker on the carb face where it continues to leak. I know this is probably a disaster in the making but I kind of just want to see if this helps then I know what my exact issue is. Does not appear I will be in the water Friday like I had hoped.
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post #105 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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Have some pop off pressure results after the replacement carb blocks were installed.

Carb 1 (Problem Carb)
Sealed leak with GM and let sit for 3 hours
83 no leak
80 no leak
81 no leak
80 no leak

Carb 2
83
84
87
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post #106 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-29-2019, 02:08 AM Thread Starter
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Two steps forward, one step back. Started to rebuild carbs when I found a few fuel hoses that were cracking from replacement. I will pick up some 1/4" ID from a local place and replace the lines on the carbs.

With the pop off pressure set, do I need to mess with the high and low speed adjusters? I left them as is when rebuilding.
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post #107 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-29-2019, 03:49 AM Thread Starter
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Ring Gap 0.0285"
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post #108 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-29-2019, 07:40 AM
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"With the pop off pressure set, do I need to mess with the high and low speed adjusters? I left them as is when rebuilding."

Please tell me you removed them while cleaning and blew out the passages. Then put them back where they were. If not you may have issues if any debris got into the passages.
I'd mark and count turns in to lightly seated and remove and blast passages with carb cleaner and air. Then replace to original settings then back out as below.

back the high out a 1/4 to 3/8 turn. This should help with overbore. I'd back the low out about an 1/8.
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post #109 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-29-2019, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, adjusters were pulled and cleaned, wasn't sure about adjustments moving forward but you answered that. Pulled an all-nighter and got the motor back together. These new powervalves do not seem to be "moving" very easily. I think the shaft and the new powervalve levers are binding a bit. What can I use in the YPVS system to help lubricate, can I slop some waterproof grease in there?
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post #110 of 154 (permalink) Old 08-29-2019, 12:48 PM
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powervalves do not seem to be "moving" very easily. I think the "shaft and the new powervalve levers are binding a bit. What can I use in the YPVS system to help lubricate, can I slop some waterproof grease in there?"

Lube the power valves and shafts with 2stroke oil. They should operate rather freely should have a little drag. If there real tight you'll want to find issue and address. Otherwise you'll burn up the servo motor or they won't operate properly.

I'm concerned with your ring gap. My manual shows .012/.018. your saying you have .0285 is twice what you should have. Did you have the ring square in the bore when you checked?
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